Which saws?

[fishhuntcutwood]

Obviously you have good luck with it with skip chain in softwood but I have run a 24" with full comp full chisel in softer hardwood and would not recommend it except for the most occasional use...

Skip does work well in soft wood in the 20" range on a 361 with a 24". It's a very common set up in my area. If I'm consistently in diameters over 22"-24" I'll use the 440 or 460. I'd be hesitant to run full comp on a 361/24" even in soft wood out here, (especially when I have two larger saws that can handle that load) let alone in Eastern hardwoods.

Jeff

 

[WESCOMAN]

My plan now is to get 2-260 pro with 18" Rollomatic E light bars and RS or RSC chain. The two 361s will have 20" Rollomatic E standard bars with RS or RSC chain and the 440 will get the big 28" Rollomatic E Super bar with RS or RSC chain. Sound good? (Please feel free to shoot me down if needed.) I just want the best set up for the money I will be spending.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

It appears to me that you're prepared to drop some significant money on these saws. I was thinking about getting a 260 a while back, but I just can't find the need to do it. The 361, to me at least, feels like small saw in my hands. It weighs two pounds more than the 260, but the gain in power is appreciable, and I think worth it. I'd go with 3 361's, and then maybe have a 260 around for really small stuff, like tree tops on the ground and branches. I just think that with the power to weight, anti-vibe and the fact that it doesn't weigh that much at all, I'd suspect you'll be reaching for the 361's far more than the 260's. Put an 18" or even 16" on a 361 and it handles like a saw half it's size, but cuts like a big boy.

Remember, you can get a full wrap handlebar for the 361 from Madsen's. Most don't think there's a need for a full wrap in firewood applications, but I don't know how many times I've been working on a big pile of wood on the ground, and found it neccessary to switch the saw over to the other hand and use the full wrap. Just a thought.

Jeff

 

[computeruser]

I've been following this post for a while and am left thoroughly confused as to why so much effort is being expended trying to figure out which saws to buy and how exactly to outfit them before you've even figured out what your needs are based on on-the-job experience. Theoretical versus actual needs are often much different, after all. Plus, having a large collection of saws sitting around doesn't make you any money.

Why not buy a couple saws, see how they're meeting (or not meeting) your needs, and then adjust. Coughing up for a large initial investment in saws you might not end up using seems wasteful. Or how about this: go buy your 440/460 with a 20" and 28" bar, run the 55/455s into the ground, and then after the Huskys crap out get a couple 361s or whatever your needs then dictate? That seems like money better spent, in my opinion, because that way you won't be buying saws you don't need.

I had in contemplation to do something along the lines of your plans - have saws at each displacement level - the perfect tool for each task. I am glad I didn't go out and do that, because I found that I can do 80% of my cutting with my 80cc Domar and the other 20% with an Echo top handle. Most of the other saws I've had have either been retired, given away, or sold. I keep trying to convince myself that I could use a 50cc saw, too, but have yet to see a true need for it. As a result, I have fewer saws to maintain, fewer different bars/chains/spare parts to keep around, and a bit more money left in my pocket. And it feels good.

Obviously you are free to buy whatever you want, but I have found that experience is generally the best gauge of what is necessary to accomplish a particular task. See how far you can go with the stuff you've got now and a minimal additional investment and then adjust accordingly.

 

[Butch(OH)]

200 cord a year by hand is quite a task Id think? good luck. I would scratch the 361, or purchase it last unless you just plain want a saw that is ideal for every size. I have an 036 and love it but the pocket saws are so much lighter and just as fast in the brush and fairly quick right up to the 8" stuff. When the pocket saws give up I find myself going straight to the 660 and by passing my 036, the extra weight more than compensated by quickness. The 036 doesn't do much anymore unless we leave everything else in the shop. I think a 361 is about ideal for the one saw firewood cutter but you might want to leave that purchase til last, you may not see the need with 260 and 440 or larger saws

 

[WESCOMAN]

I've been following this post for a while and am left thoroughly confused as to why so much effort is being expended trying to figure out which saws to buy and how exactly to outfit them before you've even figured out what your needs are based on on-the-job experience. Theoretical versus actual needs are often much different, after all. Plus, having a large collection of saws sitting around doesn't make you any money.

Why not buy a couple saws, see how they're meeting (or not meeting) your needs, and then adjust. Coughing up for a large initial investment in saws you might not end up using seems wasteful. Or how about this: go buy your 440/460 with a 20" and 28" bar, run the 55/455s into the ground, and then after the Huskys crap out get a couple 361s or whatever your needs then dictate? That seems like money better spent, in my opinion, because that way you won't be buying saws you don't need.

I had in contemplation to do something along the lines of your plans - have saws at each displacement level - the perfect tool for each task. I am glad I didn't go out and do that, because I found that I can do 80% of my cutting with my 80cc Domar and the other 20% with an Echo top handle. Most of the other saws I've had have either been retired, given away, or sold. I keep trying to convince myself that I could use a 50cc saw, too, but have yet to see a true need for it. As a result, I have fewer saws to maintain, fewer different bars/chains/spare parts to keep around, and a bit more money left in my pocket. And it feels good.

Obviously you are free to buy whatever you want, but I have found that experience is generally the best gauge of what is necessary to accomplish a particular task. See how far you can go with the stuff you've got now and a minimal additional investment and then adjust accordingly.

Hello COMPUTERUSER,
Thanks for the reply. I can understand you being confused. There are alot of questions I had. The reason behind the questions is simply to help me understand from real professionals what they recomend. Their experience is worth alot to me. Why reinvent the wheel. Secondly I will have a business loan to pay for my equipment and I only want the best. Yes the saws will cost a good bit of money but having had heavier and less powerful saws in the past I can only improve my production output with these lighter and more powerful saws. I have had the need for a lighter saw for all the limbing I have done. 2 lbs lighter and same HP in the 260 pro (compared to what I am using now) is the reason for that choice. I can even buck and cut down most of these trees with it if needed. The 361 is the same weight and 1 HP more than what I have been using and feel this will be my main saw for bucking and dropping. The 440 will be for the big trees I have comre across which I really needed a bigger saw. When you have a business loan you just cant use the money for whatever you want. The business plan will show how the money will be spent and can be justified. If I end up not using one saw or the other then I will learn from that experience and move on. To give you an idea I have just under 25K in equipment costs. The minimum business loan is 50K. I have 25K in my account as a back up above and beyond the loan. The trick is to use someone elses money not yours. Simple business. I already have a contract for 100 cord at $500.00 a cord. (That contract is as good as money in the bank and is money to the bank) I just have to produce. Come hell or High water I will produce. Anyway thanks for the advice it is appreciated.

 

[pinus]

One person and 200 cords (800-1000 m3 ?) in firewood length (splitted and woodpiled) sounds as a very strong word
I dont go with such project, if I had only chainsaw, tractor and axe:bang:

 

[skwerl]

I gotta agree with Butch on this. The 60cc saws are more of a 'middle of the road' saw better suited for farmers and other occassional users who need decent power but only want to buy one saw. The 361 is not as well suited for limbing as the 260 and it is not as strong as the 440/460 for blocking. So when would you use it? I use a 50cc saw for everything up to 16" or so and then go straight to the 72cc saw with a 24" bar. The 60cc saw might be suited for one or two cuts but why bother?

I'd run a 50cc saw (260 or 346XP) for limbing and everything smaller than 12"-14" and I'd have two bigger saws (440-460, 372XP,) for the actual production work. I'd have two so I would always have a spare for if a chain gets dull or a saw starts getting hot or even when it runs out of gas, just grab the other one. Fuel and sharpen both at the same time and you're good to go for an hour and a half nonstop.

 

[SeanD]

$500.00 per cord!!! Where are you selling this firewood?? Manhattan?

 

[captainamer71]

$500.00 per cord!!! Where are you selling this firewood??

 

[tylermckee]

A little off topic, but, you gonna be selling the 455 or 55 rancher?

 

[WESCOMAN]

Yes I will be selling them. I will post here when the time comes. Should be January or March.

 

[Biospheric]

I'm not sure about the ms 260 it's light weight but a dog! I always pick up the 029 with 20" bar, not great but a little better. I was cutting 120-150 chords a season with a pro mack 610 (heavy pos) ( first saw in high school)it did the job for a few years! 026 with a 18" bar is nice, light weight and fast. how about a 372xp with 24" bar. same power and 2lbs lighter than the new 575xp

 

[Marco]

Has ANYBODY wondered what in the heck grows in Nevada that would require more than a 260 to take care of? Or are you moving or something? I read this whole thread and I didn't see mention of it.

 

[tylermckee]

Nevada has big trees, just not in the desert.

 

[Schultzz]

I am in the firewood business big time. I own Stihls, Huskys, Macs, etc. A good medium size saw is what you are looking for. A big saw is not normally needed, and a small saw runs out of gas too quickly.

 

[stihlwoodcutter]

I cut firewood professionally (although i just read i am an occassional user...6-7 days a week...8 -10 hours a day...ok...whatever)working on just over 300cord this year....all cut from topps not logs. I started 9 years ago with a 031...then got a038....then a bushel basket 064 (still running great 10years later)...got a 025 for limbing.....then updated 3 years ago to a 460....up untill yesterday i took 2-260s the 460 and 064 to the woods everyday....and this morning i bought a 660......and let me say after 6 hours with that 660 today....i wouldnt use anything else....and dont give me that ...."oh its to heavy"....firewood and logging arent for the weak....the faster she cuts....the sooner i can put her down.
THANKS STIHLTECH.....GREAT SAW....GREAT DEAL

 

[rahtreelimbs]

up untill yesterday i took 2-260s the 460 and 064 to the woods everyday....and this morning i bought a 660......and let me say after 6 hours with that 660 today....i wouldnt use anything else

You must have Popeye arms!!!