Which splitting maul to get next?

Wesspur
Rugged made
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555xNxIsoCore-8-lb-Maul-36.jpg.pagespeed.ic.ze8BRGd-rN.jpg

When the X27 isn't enough, meet the new Fiskars 8LB IsoCore maul! Same Lifetime warranty...

http://www2.fiskars.com/Products/Gardening-and-Yard-Care/Axes-and-Mauls/IsoCore-8-lb-Maul-36

Thank me later!

EDIT: woops a year old thread....o well still a new maul on topic....
 
The USA made 6# Collins is my favourite with the Canadian made Garant Grizzly being a close second. I much prefer the wooden hickory 36" handle.
The 8# mauls tend to tire me out ealier than the 6# and handles don't seem to last as long.
I do need to try a Fiskars though.
 
I just ordered one and can give a review monday. I have some big oak rounds and some fairly good sized american holly that seems to be a bear to split. The rounds are around 22 inch for the holly and 30 or so for the oak. It is one of the bigger holly trees i've seen around here and I think the 8 lb maul will do well on it.
 
Full Chisel said:
The Stihl Pro Maul is WELL worth the money. Very high quality tool, the handle on mine has perfect grain orientation and the overstrike sleeve is a must, IMO.

Don't settle for cheap tools...
Click to expand...

I've never swung one, but I'd sure like to. I like my x27, but the Gransfors Bruks splitting maul is my favorite. Nice hickory handle, and a metal overstrike sleeve. I'm with you, it's a must.
 
I picked up a husqvarna splitting maul a few months back. I had to add my own over strike protection but it is a fine tool and good splitter
 
Old thread, but I did want to circle back and give an update on my 6# Wilton Bash. I did finally find a good use for it. It now resides in my basement next to the wood burning furnace. It splits anything that I can't get with the hatchet whether that be for making kindling, or on full length (22") firewood. I'm prone to quarter some larger rounds so my wife can feed the furnace when she's off work. It's a good fit because I can't get a full swing going with a regular axe (because I'm in the basement). The heavier head gets me enough momentum, and the shorter handle allows me to get more of a swing going despite the overhead restrictions of my basement. It splits pretty much anything that I would split outdoors with a normal axe, and since its a maul, it will drive a wedge on the more stubborn stuff. The edge isn't so sharp or delicate that it gets destroyed if I hit the concrete floor with it. The unbreakable handle actually comes in handy in this situation. Being as it's sitting a few feet from my heat source, a wood handle dries out pretty darn quick and will come loose unless I'm constantly soaking it. This one I don't have to worry about.

I still don't think it's worth what I paid for it (even though it was on sale), but it wasn't a total waste of $$. I could accomplish the same result with most 6# head, a piece of pipe, and a few minutes on the welder. After my rather blunt opinions in this thread, I just wanted to follow up and say YES there is a niche that it can and does fill nicely despite the fact that it sucks... :)
 
Used a lot of different mauls over the years. Split all my wood by hand rt up until a few years ago.

All time favorite is the Old 7lb Stanley! Had it ripped off by an outfit from NC up here for a blizzard 4 years ago. But found another in a 4 maul package by an old logger up in Oregon on Ebay!
Whole secret is the A shape perfected by Charlie Moore " The human splitting machine!" Get the edge razor sharp and keep it that way. Fiskars copied his!!
 
Fiskars IsoCore 8# 36 is the best brute force maul I have used. The only downside is it splits too violently and you always have to reset the secondary splits.
I have broken a lot of wood handles 1/year lately and figured that the source wood is not what is used to be.
I do have schedule 80 pipe sleeve about 6 inches welded to the head this lasted 15 years with the original handle.
Razor sharp is a must.
 
TheNerd said:
Fiskars IsoCore 8# 36 is the best brute force maul I have used. The only downside is it splits too violently and you always have to reset the secondary splits.
I have broken a lot of wood handles 1/year lately and figured that the source wood is not what is used to be.
I do have schedule 80 pipe sleeve about 6 inches welded to the head this lasted 15 years with the original handle.
Razor sharp is a must.
Click to expand...
Just brought one home lol. I have enough splitting tools but will probably end up with more. Ya I have a problem.
 
I have to admit that I was rather upset when I saw the Fiskars Maul. If it had come out 6 months earlier, I would have bought it in a heart beat. Now it will probably be another year or two before I pony up the cash. On the up side, I have plenty of 22" long +12" hickory rounds that will need split before I burn them next year, so maybe mama will let me splurge next fall....
 

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