Who makes a good saw these days?

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pelhamjeff

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I’ve got a compound problem I’d like to hear some opinions about. I had a Poulan Pro 335 I bought on 94. I maintained it, repaired when necessary, and it never let me down. Last Saturday, a wrist pin circlip left it’s groove and gouged the cylinder. Parts don’t seem readily available for this saw-in fact, I can hardly find mention of it on any of the websites I’ve visited. I think they didn’t sell well, because mine was over
$350, which would have bought a pretty good professional saw back then. Anyway, I went to my local Stihl dealer today and bought an MS 310. I have a contractor friend who debranches and piles his oaks and hickorys for me to cut up and sell as firewood. My first cut with the new Stihl was the piece of red oak the Poulan was in when it died. The Stihl bogged severely in this 18” tree that my Poulan had been ripping through. When I finished that, I went to a piece of hickory and had the same thing happen. The saw just acted like it was running out of gas everytime I got it under a little pressure. I certainly couldn’t dig in the teeth. I wanted to turn the high speed adjustment out a little, but there are these limiting caps on the screws, and so I wouldn’t void my warranty, I called the dealer. He said bring him the saw and a piece of that hickory, which I did. He had the same experience as me as he cut the log in his parking lot. Then he brought out a “just serviced” MS 290, which didn’t do any better. Next, he brought out an MS 390 off the rack, brand new, gassed it up, cranked it and handed it to me. It did marginally better than the MS 310, but still couldn’t blast through the log like the old Poulan. I was given my money back, but now I’m at square one. The dealer commented that new Stihls don’t run as good as the old ones because the EPA has gotten so strict about 2 stroke emissions. Has anyone else heard of this? He didn’t want to remove the limiters on the carb adjustment because he said there was nothing to be gained by doing so because of the size of the orifice the fuel flows through. He couldn’t tell me which saws have a catalytic converter, but I saw a post on another website where an exhaust modification was recommended on an MS 361. At this point I wish I could buy another Poulan 335 Pro or an older Stihl. I don’t think Poulan makes a saw nearly as good as that anymore. I don’t know where to get a Dolmer or Jonsered either, but if I bought one those, I wonder if I would find that they have been castrated as well. Can somebody tell me of a new saw under $500 that will go through a piece of 18” hickory like a Poulan would?
 
Did the dealer ever mention the MS 361? Over $500 under $600 ( I think.) Ever think of a good used pro saw? As far as Stihl goes, theres MS 361, 440, 460 or 044, 046. Somebody here can mention good Huskys, as I'm not to familiar with their numbering system for pro saws. Hope that helps. And welcome to the site. Try not to get addicted.

Also, I have a MS 390, And never really had any major issues as far as bogging. The MS 290/310/390 series aren't pro saws.
 
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These days, to get a saw that will take any downward pressure, you need around 70cc. Otherwise, you have to let the saw eat through the wood on it's own...no help from you. At least, that's been my experience.
 
I had a MS310. It will cut pretty well as long as you keep the chain sharp and let it pull itself through the wood. I've cut 30" hedge(harder than oak or hickory) with it and as long as I was easy with the touch it handled it no problem. I ran a 20" bar and wouldn't recommend any longer in hardwood.

My 280 on the other hand has a much broader powerband. Couple that with less weight and it's a great little saw that does most of my cutting.
 
Stihl, Husky (makes most Jreds also) and Dolmar all makes some really good models, some good ones, and some not-so-good ones.
You just have to pick the right models from each of them..........:givebeer: :popcorn:

I don't think anyone else makes any really good ones.....
 
that MS390 must of been out of adjustment. the 335 poulan is about 55cc's so there's a lot of mid size saw's around $500 that should work for you. 6400 dolmar is 64cc and in that price range.
 
You can find Poulan pro 330's 54cc's new still on shelfs at some places for $279 plus tax. They are still made like a real saw with magnesium case and removal cylinder from the crankcase, not like the crap plastic cased, clam shell design crank cylinder configuration of the stihl 290, 310, 390.
I have owned the Poulan 330,3750, 305, so I know what you mean about them being great runners stock.
 
I can't lean into my 029 either but with a sharp chain it can get the smaller jobs done(16" wood). The 290,310,390 are not powerhouses but are cheaper than the "pros".

I would say you need a 361, it will scream through the wood and last a very long time:cheers: Check the classifieds here, there is a 361 with your name on it:clap:

I THINK the husky 357xp is close to a 361s class and the dolmar 7900 is a beast to be so light....any of those are well worth the extra money!!
 
[QUOTE=nilzlofgren;689906) Try not to get addicted.

Who are you kidding?
 
I'd say the best way to go would be hike over to your local dealers. Husky, Dolmar or Stihl would be the top 3 choices. Decide what it is that you want your saw to do and what you are willing to spend.

Work in these fields, ask questions and then Demo the saw. If the dealer doesn't Demo saws for people....go to a different dealer. Chainsaws are like shoes...always try them on for size and comfort before making the purchase.

If we don't have a "Demo" saw, we'll grab a new one and set it up for you. 9 times out of 10 if I put fuel and oil in a saw that is the right size and price range for a customer, it leaves with them the same day.

It seems that there are more good saws than dealers. If you have crappy dealers in your area for a particular brand...it might be a good idea to consider another brand with better dealers either that or move ;)
 
poulan

I have a Poulan 4000, I bought in 1986. I can let you have for under $500, It runs good. It's in good shape but for more power I went with the Dolmar 7900 and set the Poulan on the shelf. You want a good poulan you can lean on send me an email. It's 65cc and with a top speed of 8500 rpm you can lean into it like you did with the 335 poulan. It can also handle a longer bar than the 335. It's loud, heavy and it will cut. I had it serviced right before I put it on the shelf. I bought the Dolmar and used it while the poulan was being serviced and that's why the poulan gets to rest. I may have a line on an Remington PL4 I just did a rebuild on. It's a 1963 with very low hours and will handle a 24" bar, 65 cc, runs well and the owner may part with it for less than $500.
 
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I'd say the best way to go would be hike over to your local dealers. Husky, Dolmar or Stihl would be the top 3 choices. Decide what it is that you want your saw to do and what you are willing to spend.

Work in these fields, ask questions and then Demo the saw. If the dealer doesn't Demo saws for people....go to a different dealer. Chainsaws are like shoes...always try them on for size and comfort before making the purchase.

If we don't have a "Demo" saw, we'll grab a new one and set it up for you. 9 times out of 10 if I put fuel and oil in a saw that is the right size and price range for a customer, it leaves with them the same day.

It seems that there are more good saws than dealers. If you have crappy dealers in your area for a particular brand...it might be a good idea to consider another brand with better dealers either that or move ;)

Yup, some time spent with dealers is a great idea. Posting here is a perfect first step, next step for me would be to follow Troll's lead and look into specs. While not 100% of the story, it would give a saw shopper some info to search within. Get comparative hp, weight, displacement, yada yada yada in your hands so you have something to discuss and not be lead by your nose by a over-ambitious salesman. Do your homework BEFORE stepping into the showroom checkbook in hand. Matter of fact, doing my homework ahead of time helped me weed out a potential dealer. Rudeness on the phone before the sale sent all sales to his competitor.
 
Sure does seem to be a lot of one post wonders on here saw bashin'... Sorry, just bein' me.

Once you said you bought an MS310... I stopped reading.

Go buy another quality green saw... you'll love it.:deadhorse:

Gary
 
Interesting post. I also just recently replaced a 54 cc Poulan with a 50 cc MS270. I also cut a lot of hickory. The 270 is not as strong as the old Poulan, but it hardly ever bogs in the cut unless its my fault. It also got stronger as it broke in.

The 361 I added later smokes the old Poulan in the cut.

I would think a 310 would be a good replacement for your Poulan if cut times were the only consideration.

What length bar were you running, and what type of chain?
 
Thanks to everybody who is reading/responding to my post. I would buy you all a beer if it was feasible. I put a lot of confidence in the suggestions I've seen here. Maybe that MS361 is the ticket for me. My dealer-who has bent over backwards to make me happy-still has that piece of hickory. So I see a trial of the 361 possible this week. It's good to know that others have enjoyed their Poulans too. I appreciate the offer from Geofore but I haven't given up on a new saw yet-but who knows. Mr. Nice Guy's got me all wrong. I don't care who makes my new saw, as long as it does what my old one did. I like Stihl and own an 031AV I need parts for. I just haven't found a new one yet. What length bar was I running? 20". What type chain? Oh boy, here goes...an Oregan I got at the hardware store. Full chisle, semi chisle I couldn't say. Kept it sharp with a .325 file though. Anybody got a parts Poulan Pro335 with good compression? Thanks again.
 
You'll love the 361. Just remember that it'll feel like a different saw after 5 gal. or so through it. Just remember that it'll get quite a bit stronger.
 

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