Why do "Chinesium" chainsaws need a richer oil mix?

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I'm seeing $250 Efco's online. Not sure of the oil mix on them but I'm assuming all saws are now 40-50:1 unless using for a mill.
I was referring to the Echo 2511t. A few years ago they were $275. I get a pretty good price on them and paid $452 delivered with a 12 inch bar. Most places are $500.

Efco is a decent brand, but parts can potentially be a bítch to find. The beauty of the Echo 2511 is that it’s the only one with a pro style removable cylinder. Not a clamshell. Most others are clamshells. I would think folks would be interested in the Efco model as well if it’s not a clamshell
 
Legit Echos are so cheap, I'm surprised there's a market for clones. I guess a $400 Echo vs. a $150 clone will still get takers for the clone.
I priced OEM 510 before taxes or my 10% discount. Clone was 140 shipped.
99 bought in bulk list. 159 is normal folks want shipped retail.

There is like 5 different clone 2511 out so got to do you research.

I got the one I felt closest to the oem one with some updates. 2 bar studs and better stock muffler.

Pretty much oem pieces swap in if needed.

Even picked up the 12" 1/4" micro mini drum and b+c for 50.
 

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I was referring to the Echo 2511t. A few years ago they were $275. I get a pretty good price on them and paid $452 delivered with a 12 inch bar. Most places are $500.

Efco is a decent brand, but parts can potentially be a bítch to find. The beauty of the Echo 2511 is that it’s the only one with a pro style removable cylinder. Not a clamshell. Most others are clamshells. I would think folks would be interested in the Efco model as well if it’s not a clamshell
I was looking at a 50cc Efco and it got decent reviews but what stopped me was what you pointed out, parts if I needed them.
 
The beauty of the Echo 2511 is that it’s the only one with a pro style removable cylinder. Not a clamshell. Most others are clamshells. I would think folks would be interested in the Efco model as well if it’s not a clamshell

I have one on the back burner I had found while researching 25cc stuff. I'll start a thread on it. :cheers:

Bit over the weight of the 2511 but still under 6lbs.
 

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I was looking at a 50cc Efco and it got decent reviews but what stopped me was what you pointed out, parts if I needed them.
The Duke referred me to a dealer in Wisconsin for parts for an Efco backpack blower. One part I wanted was backordered and she said it likely wasn’t worth the wait. But they sent the other one to me within a week. I believe if the dealer has your part, you’re good to go. It’s when they have to order them that it takes a long time
 
The Duke referred me to a dealer in Wisconsin for parts for an Efco backpack blower. One part I wanted was backordered and she said it likely wasn’t worth the wait. But they sent the other one to me within a week. I believe if the dealer has your part, you’re good to go. It’s when they have to order them that it takes a long time
Try Chad next time in MI he works for a dealer that sells Efco still. He is one of the mods in group.
 
I was referring to the Echo 2511t. A few years ago they were $275. I get a pretty good price on them and paid $452 delivered with a 12 inch bar. Most places are $500.

Efco is a decent brand, but parts can potentially be a bítch to find. The beauty of the Echo 2511 is that it’s the only one with a pro style removable cylinder. Not a clamshell. Most others are clamshells. I would think folks would be interested in the Efco model as well if it’s not a clamshell
I've kicked around the idea of getting a small, REALLY light weight saw to limb with when I do disaster relief. Sometimes its nice to have something light weight when your climbing through downed tree tops on the side of a mountain :) Hadn't spent much time researching them but I never dug real deep on the subject because the lightest Stihl I could find was a touch over 9 lbs and that's not enough weight difference to justify going smaller than my 026 or 024. I just noticed the comment about the 2511 being 6 lbs. That's enough of a difference to spark my interest. Glad you guys mentioned it!
 
I've kicked around the idea of getting a small, REALLY light weight saw to limb with when I do disaster relief. Sometimes its nice to have something light weight when your climbing through downed tree tops on the side of a mountain :) Hadn't spent much time researching them but I never dug real deep on the subject because the lightest Stihl I could find was a touch over 9 lbs and that's not enough weight difference to justify going smaller than my 026 or 024. I just noticed the comment about the 2511 being 6 lbs. That's enough of a difference to spark my interest. Glad you guys mentioned it!
Echo 2511 OEM PHO like 5lbs 4oz. Clones 5lbs 6oz to 8oz

Stihl has the 150T and newer 151T under 6lbs but barely. Efco 25cc same weight PHO dry as this one too.

This is the clone 2511 filled up with mix, bar oil and 12" b+c 3/8LP on for total weight. Less with 1/4" micro 12" set.
 

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I priced OEM 510 before taxes or my 10% discount. Clone was 140 shipped.
99 bought in bulk list. 159 is normal folks want shipped retail.

There is like 5 different clone 2511 out so got to do you research.

I got the one I felt closest to the oem one with some updates. 2 bar studs and better stock muffler.

Pretty much oem pieces swap in if needed.

Even picked up the 12" 1/4" micro mini drum and b+c for 50.

$510 to $159 will definitely create a market for a clone.

I'm just not a clone person. Lots of reasons.
 
Legit Echos are so cheap, I'm surprised there's a market for clones. I guess a $400 Echo vs. a $150 clone will still get takers for the clone.

Chinese versions of Kioritz products are nothing new. More than 15 years ago, German DIY chain Obi sold a chainsaw here with the designation BKS 40 (Benzin-KettenSäge 40 cc/Gasoline ChainSaw 40 cc). It was parts compatible with Echo CS-4200ES (39.6 cc). It was equipped with a "square" air filter instead of a round one as in the Echo.

1722805837766.jpeg1722805879179.jpeg

The manufacturer of this chainsaw was a Chinese company with the English name ZHEJIANG ZOMAX GARDEN MACHINERY CO., LTD.

1722806077417.png


https://www.zomaxtool.com/gasoline-chainsaw/


They offer a lot of other models, which are probably also copies of various Yamabiko products. Although their 25cc top handle chainsaw is unlikely to be a copy of Echo. The largest chainsaw in their range has an engine displacement of 73.5 cc.
 

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So, yeah.. I own a collection of Stihl, and Echo saws..
I've seen a few videos ( Guilty of Treason), that test beat a few cheap Chinese saws. They didn't seem too bad, and were dirt cheap. So, considering that a bar and chain could easily run over $100.00 ( CDN), .. for an extra $50.00... Darn!! you get a whole chain saw, tools, gloves, scabbard, etc.
Basically, at that price, they are disposable. So, I bought a 25 CC top handle, and a 60 CC saw. Drop one? Run over one? Hit the ground with the chain? Lend it out to an idiot neighbour? What's the worst that could happen?
But.. What's with the manual's instructions that it runs at 25 to 1 . ( actually, 20 to 1 for the first tank, then 25 to 1 after that).
Is it because the manufacturer thinks that you'll use the cheapest Dino oil that you can find? That you wouldn't run a premium synthetic? Is there a difference in the metallurgy in the saw's construction?
Usually, I run Amsoil Saber at 70 to 1, with Premium, Ethanol free gas, with a glug or two of Seafoam.. Everything that I have loves it, and I've had no issues of any kind in well over a decade. And yeah .. I beat the crap out of them commercially.. They weren't babied homeowner's stuff.
So.. do I just disregard the "25 to 1" thing, and run my usual mix, or, is there something that I'm missing, because it's a Chinese clone?
The number one thing that wrecks chainsaws - cutting with dull cutters! Because you compensate by pushing down on the saw which causes the piston to overheat and score. Number two: leaning out the mix ratio to "save money". Number three: cutting firewood in August when it's 100 degrees out.(cutting firewood is much harder on a saw than logging because of risk of overheating).
 
MY SUSPICION is that they are selling to a poor world that often will not have newer synthetic oils available and they are using God only knows what oils? It has been on my lifetime that we went away from 16:1 w/ 30w non-detergent because of oil improvements.
My first chainsaw used 16:1. It gave me a headache to use it. The unburned oil made a blue smoke cloud. Not Good! I use 50:1 now.
 
The number one thing that wrecks chainsaws - cutting with dull cutters! Because you compensate by pushing down on the saw which causes the piston to overheat and score. Number two: leaning out the mix ratio to "save money". Number three: cutting firewood in August when it's 100 degrees out.(cutting firewood is much harder on a saw than logging because of risk of overheating).
Well, first off... Hi!! and welcome to the forum!

You raised a couple of interesting points...

I never thought of cutting with dull cutters as a source of overheating / engine failure. I guess that's because that's something I'd never do. Three licks with the file after every tank, whether it needs it, or not. Five licks no matter what if it starts spitting dust. But, hey! .. That's just me. The "overheat " part, I just didn't get. I can't see how it would matter to the engine where the load came from. When cutting with a sharp saw chain, let's say that the saw runs at 12,000 R.P.M, with no load, at full throttle. Now when you're in the cut, it runs at 10,500 R.P.M., WOT. I can't figure out why the engine would care whether it's 10,500 R.P.M., and spitting chips like a beaver on crack, or spitting dust. Same load... same R.P.M.. same amount of fuel. Also, the 10,500 R.P.M. provides the same amount of cooling over the fins, regardless of load.

As the main point of this thread was the proper oil mix for a "Chinesium" saw, a question that has been thoroughly discussed and answered, I don't get the comment about "Leaning out the mix to save money", causes engine failure. I'm not sure if that comment was directed at me, because I run Amsoil Saber at 70 to 1, or referring to running 50 to 1 instead of 25 to 1 on a Chinesium saw, as directed by the Manufacturer. Leaning out the mix ratio has more to do with the oil you're using. Most standard mix is 50 to 1, Amsoil specs say it's good to 100 to 1. I run it at 70 to 1 without an issue. Ever. I also tune for 70 to 1, as there is now more gas in the fuel, although not really that much.

Cutting firewood in August at 100 degrees?? Don't need firewood much in August.. It can wait till September. I'd be the one that overheated and died... not the saw..
 
The "overheat " part, I just didn't get. I can't see how it would matter to the engine where the load came from
A proper chain pulls itself away from the bar and feeds into the wood on its own. A dull chain heats up the bar from prying on the dogs. Not to mention the 3–4 times longer it takes to cut the log without giving the saw a break to cool down. That added heat from the bar and slipping the clutch transfers into the case
 

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