Why does my Husky 345 outruns my 262xp and 272xp?

[Fabb]

Drop a file size and file the gullet out of the first chain.

Yes that is what I would like to do. I think bigger would not matter and maybe even make it a little bit easier but I can use the .325 file indeed.

When mine does that I always suspect the chain. Even when I just sharpened it. Run all three with a new chain in the same tree to be sure.

Sharp chains are always good. Sure thing it's the chain but as I come from a used an sharpened one I didn't want to change it too much to start with.

Just say it people.

Your chain filing skills are poor.

Raise a bur on the top and cut it away with a file and try again. It should be sharp to the top plate at the chrome edge never rounded over. the edge should be aligned with the top of the cutter.

The profile on your drags is terrible.

You can say or yell a lot, you don't know the situation. My 345 never had issues with a .325 I file out of my hand or sometimes use the guide from Huskie. I needed to file out of my hand once because the gull was not that nice and th top wasony touched. The chain on the 272 was not new, not earlier done by me and people file in various ways because of their experience/wood, so I was wondering and tried to test this chain out.

The first cuts were perfectly fine with that chain and the guy I bought the 272 from was pretty decent and knew as well; no chain will be the same for any type of wood; I agree, and lots of legends do as well.

The drags are for a reason like this, I want to see if straight makes a difference or not.

If you don't want to test you are terrible

Look mate, your dealing with a bunch of helpful, blunt men. Most are very direct. No offence is meant and non should be taken. The fact is your sharpening skills are lacking by a large margin. We all had that issue at one point or another. Just takes time to learn how to do it properly.
There are very, very, very many threads dedicated to properly sharpening chains. The search function is your friend.

First, I'm not your mate, second read back then you understand. I don't mind making misstakes but there are lots of reasons why you file in some way, this was not good for the long run for sure; again never had issues on my 345/.325 and it almost came this way for the 272, 262 was some tests when I had that bar/chain on a failing 357 before I moved over to the 2-series.

Makes sense now suspected chain as well. That 272 with a good chain should early all your others.

Yes but as I got another 357 (which does have a compression issue so I went back to 2-series because they are nice to mainain as well) I got a sharpened chain with that one but that Oregon chain was in my opinion very soft so round cutters all the time.

I have an new chain for the 272 on a shorter bar, I can try that as well but it will be fine for sure.


For now I got a Husqvarna guide which I also have for the .325. Angle is indeed off and I file much higher and get less gullet. I need to see if I get enough gullet as that wasmy issue earlier once with the 345/.325 with the same type of guide for that chain; I got not enough gullet.

I let you guys know how it turns out. The depth gauge is what I leave for. The depth is OK go hard wood and the round angle is what I will make as last change to see how things change.


Thanks all!

 

[HumBurner]

Yes that is what I would like to do. I think bigger would not matter and maybe even make it a little bit easier but I can use the .325 file indeed.



Sharp chains are always good. Sure thing it's the chain but as I come from a used an sharpened one I didn't want to change it too much to start with.



You can say or yell a lot, you don't know the situation. My 345 never had issues with a .325 I file out of my hand or sometimes use the guide from Huskie. I needed to file out of my hand once because the gull was not that nice and th top wasony touched. The chain on the 272 was not new, not earlier done by me and people file in various ways because of their experience/wood, so I was wondering and tried to test this chain out.

The first cuts were perfectly fine with that chain and the guy I bought the 272 from was pretty decent and knew as well; no chain will be the same for any type of wood; I agree, and lots of legends do as well.

The drags are for a reason like this, I want to see if straight makes a difference or not.

If you don't want to test you are terrible



First, I'm not your mate, second read back then you understand. I don't mind making misstakes but there are lots of reasons why you file in some way, this was not good for the long run for sure; again never had issues on my 345/.325 and it almost came this way for the 272, 262 was some tests when I had that bar/chain on a failing 357 before I moved over to the 2-series.



Yes but as I got another 357 (which does have a compression issue so I went back to 2-series because they are nice to mainain as well) I got a sharpened chain with that one but that Oregon chain was in my opinion very soft so round cutters all the time.

I have an new chain for the 272 on a shorter bar, I can try that as well but it will be fine for sure.


For now I got a Husqvarna guide which I also have for the .325. Angle is indeed off and I file much higher and get less gullet. I need to see if I get enough gullet as that wasmy issue earlier once with the 345/.325 with the same type of guide for that chain; I got not enough gullet.

I let you guys know how it turns out. The depth gauge is what I leave for. The depth is OK go hard wood and the round angle is what I will make as last change to see how things change.


Thanks all!

You came in here asking for advice. Now you're claiming your chains are actually in fine shape with the depth gauges the way they're supposed to be.

You have sloped back, uneven cutters in the first photo provided, and poor sharpening skills overall, as seen by the other photo(s.) Its not a personal attack, it's a statement of fact.

I'll remember to not waste my time trying to help you in the future.


And no, I didn't have a bad day, but thanks for asking

 

[sean donato]

Yes that is what I would like to do. I think bigger would not matter and maybe even make it a little bit easier but I can use the .325 file indeed.



Sharp chains are always good. Sure thing it's the chain but as I come from a used an sharpened one I didn't want to change it too much to start with.



You can say or yell a lot, you don't know the situation. My 345 never had issues with a .325 I file out of my hand or sometimes use the guide from Huskie. I needed to file out of my hand once because the gull was not that nice and th top wasony touched. The chain on the 272 was not new, not earlier done by me and people file in various ways because of their experience/wood, so I was wondering and tried to test this chain out.

The first cuts were perfectly fine with that chain and the guy I bought the 272 from was pretty decent and knew as well; no chain will be the same for any type of wood; I agree, and lots of legends do as well.

The drags are for a reason like this, I want to see if straight makes a difference or not.

If you don't want to test you are terrible



First, I'm not your mate, second read back then you understand. I don't mind making misstakes but there are lots of reasons why you file in some way, this was not good for the long run for sure; again never had issues on my 345/.325 and it almost came this way for the 272, 262 was some tests when I had that bar/chain on a failing 357 before I moved over to the 2-series.



Yes but as I got another 357 (which does have a compression issue so I went back to 2-series because they are nice to mainain as well) I got a sharpened chain with that one but that Oregon chain was in my opinion very soft so round cutters all the time.

I have an new chain for the 272 on a shorter bar, I can try that as well but it will be fine for sure.


For now I got a Husqvarna guide which I also have for the .325. Angle is indeed off and I file much higher and get less gullet. I need to see if I get enough gullet as that wasmy issue earlier once with the 345/.325 with the same type of guide for that chain; I got not enough gullet.

I let you guys know how it turns out. The depth gauge is what I leave for. The depth is OK go hard wood and the round angle is what I will make as last change to see how things change.


Thanks all!

First, mate, I read the entire thread.
Second, mate I know a lot of reasons why I file a chain a certain way, and I clearly know you don't.
Have a pleasant day.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Obviously not all Husqvarna owners have the steel balls the signature claims and are a wee bit more sensitive.

 

[EchoShindaiwaMakitaDolmar]

Pretty much everything is wrong in those photos, including the shape and angle of the depth gauges.


Take a new chain and study it.

As has been said here many times, know how you want the cutter to look when you're done filing.

A lot can be learned from blunt honesty.

 

[EchoShindaiwaMakitaDolmar]

Just say it people.

Your chain filing skills are poor.

Raise a bur on the top and cut it away with a file and try again. It should be sharp to the top plate at the chrome edge never rounded over. the edge should be aligned with the top of the cutter.

The profile on your drags is terrible.

This seems like very honest & good advice.

 

[coffeebrk]

Lot of variables in the OP's mix. He's got several saws, bars, and chains. I have a Husky 345. Its a nicely weighted saw that happily revs quickly up to 12,500 rpms. I enjoy running mine however it does not outperform any of my other saws within the same cc or hp class. And certainly all of my bigger saws will do better. How the other saws he has are tuned along with bar and chains and sharpness of cutters should reveal the answers. I don't hand sharpen very well and cannot stand a dull chain. Been there done that. That's why I sharpen with an Oregon, (Super Jolly) grinder. It allows for super consistent results.
My suggestion would be to get all chains pro sharpened and tune with a digital rpm gauge.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Pretty much everything is wrong in those photos, including the shape and angle of the depth gauges.


Take a new chain and study it.

As has been said here many times, know how you want the cutter to look when you're done filing.

You had a bad day didn't you ? Anyways, some people were more friendly then you and even helping.

I hope you will do better soon.

When mine does that I always suspect the chain. Even when I just sharpened it. Run all three with a new chain in the same tree to be sure.

Look mate, your dealing with a bunch of helpful, blunt men. Most are very direct. No offence is meant and non should be taken. The fact is your sharpening skills are lacking by a large margin. We all had that issue at one point or another. Just takes time to learn how to do it properly.
There are very, very, very many threads dedicated to properly sharpening chains. The search function is your friend.

Fabb, I don't agree with what I think you tried saying about HumBurner's message as him having a hard day and taking it out on you.

sean donato and Seachaser also have sound advice which has been repeated in other thread on chain sharpening. As Sean said, get 3 new chains. Now, from me, even before putting them to wood, examine the way the teeth look and try to get all of your other chains to look like that. A properly sharpened chain takes lots of practice, but also needs you to have the picture in your head of what a well sharpened chain looks like compared to the various places our duller chains could have dulling factors that make it imperfect.

Like sean donato said, no offense was meant.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Lot of variables in the OP's mix. He's got several saws, bars, and chains. I have a Husky 345. Its a nicely weighted saw that happily revs quickly up to 12,500 rpms. I enjoy running mine however it does not outperform any of my other saws within the same cc or hp class. And certainly all of my bigger saws will do better. How the other saws he has are tuned along with bar and chains and sharpness of cutters should reveal the answers. I don't hand sharpen very well and cannot stand a dull chain. Been there done that. That's why I sharpen with an Oregon, (Super Jolly) grinder. It allows for super consistent results.
My suggestion would be to get all chains pro sharpened and tune with a digital rpm gauge.

coffeebrk, like you, I was also going to suggest that each saw also needs to be tuned and the oilers working optimally. This way they will be in proper working order. This way he will know they are going to make the fullest use and best power when a well sharpened chain and good bar are put into wood. If the larger saws don't eat the lunch of a smaller saw at this point, something else is going on.

 

[Fabb]

Lot of variables in the OP's mix. He's got several saws, bars, and chains. I have a Husky 345. Its a nicely weighted saw that happily revs quickly up to 12,500 rpms. I enjoy running mine however it does not outperform any of my other saws within the same cc or hp class. And certainly all of my bigger saws will do better. How the other saws he has are tuned along with bar and chains and sharpness of cutters should reveal the answers. I don't hand sharpen very well and cannot stand a dull chain. Been there done that. That's why I sharpen with an Oregon, (Super Jolly) grinder. It allows for super consistent results.
My suggestion would be to get all chains pro sharpened and tune with a digital rpm gauge.

How good stays your disk of that Jolly ? I hear too much issues with a changing shape of the stone/disk so a file seems to be best as that is iron meets iron when you have a good file and I have seen the same on grinders too often.

I need to check the RPM's with my digital RPM meter, didn't got time yet, I can even measure the chainspeed if I want.

Jut got some issues on the 3/8 chains nothing else, was wondering how realy different they were and more people havind issues on dead oak and how chains where holding up; which can be a pain.

I will test tomorrow I think after filing the 3/8's chains; buying new is just lame if you ask me, comparing even worse as they never will become like new. I know, some people even file their new chains but that is because of personal reasons mostly.

 

[coffeebrk]

How good stays your disk of that Jolly ? I hear too much issues with a changing shape of the stone/disk so a file seems to be best as that is iron meets iron when you have a good file and I have seen the same on grinders too often.

I need to check the RPM's with my digital RPM meter, didn't got time yet, I can even measure the chainspeed if I want.

Jut got some issues on the 3/8 chains nothing else, was wondering how realy different they were and more people havind issues on dead oak and how chains where holding up; which can be a pain.

I will test tomorrow I think after filing the 3/8's chains; buying new is just lame if you ask me, comparing even worse as they never will become like new. I know, some people even file their new chains but that is because of personal reasons mostly.

My sharpener came with a contour gauge and shaping stone so keeping the disc proper is easy. Very little material is removed from the disc and cutter when grinding.

 

[Bubster]

I'm not trying to be an a$$, but your post towards HumBurner was uncalled for. He was simply stating what he saw and was not being mean about it. A sawchain is a picky thing for sure. It is dang near impossible to try and explain how to sharpen to someone without actually showing them. I think what he meant was to simply look at a new chain,even if it is just a picture, and try to sharpen to that standard. I file chains straight from the box myself, but in the end it still is close to what the factory edge/cutter looks like. Again, good luck. And try out a 3/16 file in that gullet. Might take an hour to get the chain back in shape,but worth every minute.

 

[sean donato]

I'm not trying to be an a$$, but your post towards HumBurner was uncalled for. He was simply stating what he saw and was not being mean about it. A sawchain is a picky thing for sure. It is dang near impossible to try and explain how to sharpen to someone without actually showing them. I think what he meant was to simply look at a new chain,even if it is just a picture, and try to sharpen to that standard. I file chains straight from the box myself, but in the end it still is close to what the factory edge/cutter looks like. Again, good luck. And try out a 3/16 file in that gullet. Might take an hour to get the chain back in shape,but worth every minute.

Better to add look into a file guide as well. Or find a shop with a grinder and let them sharpen it. Going to take a bit of time by hand for someone inexperienced.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Some peoples in parts of this world find it hard to take constructive critique, listen to experience, or win wars.

 

[sean donato]

Not affiliated with him at all, but he does good teaching the basics.

 

[Bubster]

Not affiliated with him at all, but he does good teaching the basics.

He brought the gullet to the attention of thousands. I'm sure most old loggers already knew to file them out, but the man does have good skills and work ethic.

 

[link]

"Why does my Husky 345 outruns my 262xp and 272xp?"​

Because you put gas in the 345.

 

[Fabb]

My sharpener came with a contour gauge and shaping stone so keeping the disc proper is easy. Very little material is removed from the disc and cutter when grinding.

Thanks for the reply, that is where I hoped for. You own a Jolly or a different brand.

Not affiliated with him at all, but he does good teaching the basics.

Yes I agree with you, that is why I started testing as well. Lots of advises here are against what he says and he is not that picky as well on how he does file; seen him doing his tests before.

I'm not trying to be an a$$, but your post towards HumBurner was uncalled for. He was simply stating what he saw and was not being mean about it. A sawchain is a picky thing for sure. It is dang near impossible to try and explain how to sharpen to someone without actually showing them. I think what he meant was to simply look at a new chain,even if it is just a picture, and try to sharpen to that standard. I file chains straight from the box myself, but in the end it still is close to what the factory edge/cutter looks like. Again, good luck. And try out a 3/16 file in that gullet. Might take an hour to get the chain back in shape,but worth every minute.

Thanks, I filed some cutters guided to see how much filing they need for that ange and will see how it turns out. Time is no issue, the chains are now and can be solved. I will check out a 3/16, thanks!


Testing is knowledge, the rest are just people wasting time trying to be funny while not reading properly.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Fabb,

I see you are from France. I also know that it is easy to make mistakes in languages that are not your native tongue but a 2nd or 3rd language.
If I may address the term, "MATE" I am pretty sure the original intent of his referring to you as mate was the meaning hopefully most members of the forum would define as mates. Those who strive to treat our fellow forum mates as "friends" and when a friend asks for help, the friend should be able to receive the evaluation which is given from observation and experience and not be offended if the answers we give aren't, "Great Job, No Problem here. Gee I wonder what it could be?"
In other words, if asking for advice, or asking why one saw is cutting worse or better than others, we will express the reasons. If we see poor sharpening, a poor or potentially deadly felling technique, signs of terrible maintenance, etc, it does no one any good, if the problems are not pointed out.

With all that said, I am pretty sure no personal attacks or demeaning of you was intended by anyone until the tone of your messages turned slightly confrontational or as if someone hurt your feelings or made you feel dumb even if you reject the suggestion to buy new chains.

Having said all that, I would like to clarify that I have not responded with any intention to belittle you or the choices you make. I have also not tried to combat any ideas or methods you feel justified to follow or reject. We all make mistakes and we all hopefully develop skills to change the mistakes into refining the rudiments until mastery of the process is obtained. I am far from a 40 year professional saw sharpener, but I am also the first one to admit that there is certainly more about sharpening that I can learn. With each time I file and see the areas I can improve, as I learn, then I can correct my any poor techniques. My results with practice can improve my results until building blocks of improvement is achieved once I can replicate good sharpening skill by muscle memory and feel.

I hope you can learn and get good results from all your saws too.

Good Luck

 

[Lightning Performance]

You came in here asking for advice. Now you're claiming your chains are actually in fine shape with the depth gauges the way they're supposed to be.

You have sloped back, uneven cutters in the first photo provided, and poor sharpening skills overall, as seen by the other photo(s.) Its not a personal attack, it's a statement of fact.

I'll remember to not waste my time trying to help you in the future.


And no, I didn't have a bad day, but thanks for asking

What he ^ said.

My post was not attack on anyone's anything, period.
I have very thick skin and may seem grossly inconsiderate at the time but no malicious intent was intended.

Your sharpening skills can only improve and I've seen much worse. Don't get offended OP, get even