Why does my Husky 345 outruns my 262xp and 272xp?

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Thanks for the reply, that is where I hoped for. You own a Jolly or a different brand.



Yes I agree with you, that is why I started testing as well. Lots of advises here are against what he says and he is not that picky as well on how he does file; seen him doing his tests before.



Thanks, I filed some cutters guided to see how much filing they need for that ange and will see how it turns out. Time is no issue, the chains are now and can be solved. I will check out a 3/16, thanks!


Testing is knowledge, the rest are just people wasting time trying to be funny while not reading properly.
You have people trying to help you have tested, tested and tested stuff to death like me. Collectively you literally have hundreds of years of chain sharpening experience at your fingertips. Before you burn that bridge stop and think first. You were not ignored, possibly dismissed, you were given solid advice to hone your skills so take it and improve.

"I wanted to tell someone yesterday that it doesn't cost anything to be nice. I'm sure they wouldn't understand that because it's worth nothing."
KAM 2023
 
This seems like very honest & good advice.
That was summation not my usual long winded BS.

If someone one told me that I'd have to reassess my whole program and improve upon that with all the advice or lessons that can be found. A neighbor probably has the skills and finding someone who does shouldn't be that hard in your area unless you live in Wyoming. Even then there will be more users than not who can sharpen a simple tooth and set the drags for your local woods.

25/50/whatevec 0-10
cuts wood on every part of this blue globe if done correctly.
 
OK, did a 272 test today as I did with the 345 in the past as I had a gullet problem there once as someone kept sawing which the chain didn't like and needed complete sharpening with Husqvarna guide which I already had. After that I was able to maintain that chain without a guide, except for the depth guides.

You need to file a lot when you cut a lot so no problem here and there at all.

First of all, 60cm dead oak was going like crazy. Also; this chainsaw comes from a gasoline mix I don't know. I run all my saws on 95 octane with 10% of Bio-ethanol with quality 2-stroke oil; never issues, very powerful and good smell. It also ran better with my testrun today; as usual and I need to tune the low a little bit because of it, high is perfectly fine, it happens and it's normal behaviour.

I did't make photo's of the oak sawdust (forgot) but the tested with softer wood first; you can see I filed for hard wood and I like the result a lot.

As it did with my 345 back the days I did a "3-stage" filing.

1. Top-plate corner with guide back into 30 degrees
2. Filed back in the gullet (straigth on the small bump you file in on step 1). This with the same 3/8 file until I touched the top-plate corner by filing as much horizontal as you can in the beginning.
3. Measured the depth guides with guideplate and filed them the way I have seen most and I prefer.

One thing is for sure, I keep filing the rest of life again but my next test will be; can I do this all at once with a bigger file.

I'm looking forward to the next empty tank to see how it keeps going witht this chain.

Tips on the middle bump are welcome. I see them a lot, even with professional sharpeners. Do maybe someone has their opinion, I would like to remove them actually.

Here are the photo's.

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WhatsApp Image 2023-02-15 at 18.39.41_.jpegWhatsApp Image 2023-02-15 at 18.39.43.jpegWhatsApp Image 2023-02-15 at 18.39.44 (1).jpegWhatsApp Image 2023-02-15 at 18.39.44 (2).jpegWhatsApp Image 2023-02-15 at 18.39.45.jpegWhatsApp Image 2023-02-15 at 18.39.44 (3).jpegWhatsApp Image 2023-02-15 at 18.39.47.jpegWhatsApp Image 2023-02-15 at 18.39.47 (1).jpegWhatsApp Image 2023-02-15 at 18.39.47 (2).jpeg
 
Still needs a lot more practice to get those cutters somewhat close to an "as left the factory" profile- but perhaps a bit better than the first series of photos.

If you see the top they are pretty factory like and also feel like, I'm not good a photos. The chains how they were were just sharpened in the angle they came (262 is a different story as it was new and came from a 357 that seemed to lack power on high RPM's so you go tuning and it's not good for your chain).

The "in field" (my own property) test was to see what happened with lower depth guides as I need to file anyways. Next test on the 272 was a grinding where the angle seemed to be 35 degrees when I measured and wanted to test. That grinder goes into the wastebin for sure and I don't like grinding when the file doesn't match ever.

The 262 was not filed by me but will be tomorrow I think and tested as well ofcourse 🙂
 
If you see the top they are pretty factory like and also feel like, I'm not good a photos. The chains how they were were just sharpened in the angle they came (262 is a different story as it was new and came from a 357 that seemed to lack power on high RPM's so you go tuning and it's not good for your chain).

The "in field" (my own property) test was to see what happened with lower depth guides as I need to file anyways. Next test on the 272 was a grinding where the angle seemed to be 35 degrees when I measured and wanted to test. That grinder goes into the wastebin for sure and I don't like grinding when the file doesn't match ever.

The 262 was not filed by me but will be tomorrow I think and tested as well ofcourse 🙂
When I get home, I'll post a few pics of what your chain should look like.
 
3/8" chain factory grind, it's in need of a touch up. But that contour will mostly be maintained. 7/32" file or 5.5mm if you like metric.
 

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You need more hook like these guys are showing you.

Your stages deal is a bust. One size of the right file in one smooth stroke on an even plane. Get under that top plate more and add hook like a fish hook, literally.

Go put a fishing hook next to your cutter and go for that profile. Add too much hook and cutter will mush over like your first set of pics. Finding the fine line between too much and not enough is where your at now. The angle of hook should flow from the tooth upper point smoothly down through the gullet. No angle changes. One file, one angle, and lift up as you file back to finish them. This where you raise that bur in the chrome then file up to remove it. Now you have a razors edge on the chrome plate. Adjust from there.
 
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