Why would you want 3/8 instead of .325 on a 550?

[bsmith717]

In the video you said that you can't even pull the chain when it is only put on the bar, now there is no problem with that. Something doesn't add up here...

When I had it hanging up in the video it was not spinning. You saw it.

 

[bsmith717]

Bsmith717, You have some confusion, hope this helps: 050/058 is related to the guide bar GAUGE= Bar GROOVE/ Chain DRIVE LINK thickness, whereas KERF is in the WOOD, and related to width of the Cutter/s. To confuse, or hopefully Clarify, NARROW KERF chain, I believe comes ONLY in 0.325 drive PITCH? If the Kerf start to get too narrow, the BAR/ LIN AND PINS start to drag in the wood, cause drag, heat and crooked cut issues... this is, as example, an issue of concern when some try to use a 3/8-LP chain on a regular 3/8 bar.

TIP: If MILLING, the KERF of the 3/8WP (Woodland Pro/ Carlton) RIPPING Chain is very close to 1/4" KERF that many used to brag on for the LP chain.

is Punked operating behind the scenes at arboristsite….

How is the latter not dictated by former?

 

[bsmith717]

What he said ^^^^^ !!!

Something was up with bar and chain alone in your video clips. Is the bar sprocket free? I still think you need to look at the drivers more closely........also look at the teeth on the bar sprocket, chance Husky put the wrong pitch one on the bar, a mismatch there will show up on the teeth.......made on a Monday morning.......

I will get you a video.

 

[thenne1713]

is Punked operating behind the scenes at arboristsite….

How is the latter not dictated by former?

You will need to expand/ clarify that question? Although, KERF is not listed in SPECS for any chain literature that I am aware of, other than the term NARROW KERF on (some) 325, and (generally) NOT of concern to timber harvesters or homeowners?

 

[epo]

When I had it hanging up in the video it was not spinning. You saw it.

Maybe your problem is caused by that light coat of paint inside the groove that @coffeebrk wrote about.
Now maybe this paint has already been partially removed and thus the chain already slides better in the bar. You may want to look into the groove and see if there are any remnants of it still there.

 

[Mad Professor]

When I had it hanging up in the video it was not spinning. You saw it.

Yes, posts # 36-38. You couldn't spin the chain in the bar, when it was off the saw.

My bad. I already did that and thought I posted that the bar is perfectly smooth and straight and the chains drivers are perfect aswell. It’s getting bound by the sprocket not performing as it should I believe.

So what was it then?

 

[epo]

You will need to expand/ clarify that question? Although, KERF is not listed in SPECS for any chain literature that I am aware of, other than the term NARROW KERF on (some) 325, and (generally) NOT of concern to timber harvesters or homeowners?

His B&C combination is precisely of the Narrow Kerf type.

 

[thenne1713]

<<BSSmith717 wrote:

If I put the chain on the bar and hold it I can spin it just fine. When I put the bar/chain on the saw and don’t tighten the cover nuts it also seems to spin fine. But as soon as I tighten the nuts it gets jammed as it comes around the back of the sprocket over the top from my observations.

if it’s really broken/factory defect it with be that much more of a shame as this is the only saw I have purchased brand new>>>

Suspicion is that either drive sprocket on saw does not match chain, or tension adjuster PIN in cover is not dropping into the hole in the bar, thus cover/ bar go crooked. I have seen newbies do both of these scenarios, sometimes both at same time and not look closely enough to realize what the real issue was.

If chain does not slide properly in the unmounted bar, either damaged bar, damaged chain links, or wrong pitch if sprocket tip bar.

 

[bsmith717]

Yes, posts # 36-38. You couldn't spin the chain in the bar, when it was off the sa


So what was it then?

It’s both.

The second post you quoted is just me saying I saw no damage on the drivers or the bar. It still was not spinning. See what I’m saying?

 

[bsmith717]

Chain vid 1/2

 

[bsmith717]

Chain vid 2/2

 

[Mad Professor]

It’s both.

The second post you quoted is just me saying I saw no damage on the drivers or the bar. It still was not spinning. See what I’m saying?

Chain vid 1/2

Chain vid 2/2

Damaged drivers. And plenty more I see........ Should not be on a "new" chain with < 5 min use. QED

Edit: Each one of those dings, act like a little "chock block" between the drivers and the bar rails. Especially so on a new B/C, that don't have much wear/clearance .

 

[epo]

Damaged drivers. And plenty more I see........ Should not be on a "new" chain with < 5 min use. QED

Then why, according to the OP, now the chain spins without a problem on the unmounted guide bar, when previously there was a problem with it? (Assuming I understood correctly what the situation is according to him now).

 

[coffeebrk]

Here's some pics of the Husky and Speedcut bar. And also my Husky chain

 

[Mad Professor]

Then why, according to the OP, now the chain spins without a problem on the unmounted guide bar, when previously there was a problem with it? (Assuming I understood correctly what the situation is according to him now).

I'm confused what OP is trying to say? Spin or no spin?

Do you see the damaged drivers? Would you expect those on a new chain with virtually no use?

OP posted video where he could not spin the chain, posts #36-38.

He still needs to find out if damage was because of a thrown chain, a different pitch rim, or both? That is why I said take the clutch off to check rim pitch, AND now file off the burrs.

Here's some pics of the Husky and Speedcut bar. And also my Husky chainView attachment 1187771View attachment 1187772View attachment 1187773

Divers look perfect!!!

You could draw file the rails on the Oregon bar while you have it off, starting to get the edge to it.

 

[Philbert]

KERF is not listed in SPECS for any chain literature that I am aware of

Kerf changes as cutters wear.


Narrow kerf starts out with a smaller width, reducing demand on powerhead, and requiring a narrower guide bar for adequate clearance.

Also used on other types of saws (circular, hand, etc.). .

Philbert

 

[J D]

Sorry, JD BUT WRONG/ confused. 325 NOT SAME AS 3/8 or 3/8picco. 3/8=0.375, NOT 0.325

My statement, if read in context with the previous question is correct.
The "difference" between 80TXL & standard .325 is the same as the difference between 3/8 LoPro & standard 3/8.
To put it another way, while 80TXL (or .325LP) is the same pitch as standard .325, it requires different drive sprockets as the chasis is smaller so the rolling diameter changes (just like 3/8LP & 3/8).
https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/speedcut™-nano-saw-chain,-12"/p/80txl051g

 

[bsmith717]

Damaged drivers. And plenty more I see........ Should not be on a "new" chain with < 5 min use. QED

Edit: Each one of those dings, act like a little "chock block" between the drivers and the bar rails. Especially so on a new B/C, that don't have much wear/clearance .

View attachment 1187768View attachment 1187769

Thats bar oil and dirt making you think that there’s damage.

You’re tripping bud.

 

[coffeebrk]

Just put a bar gauge on it for gosh sakes

 

[Mad Professor]

Thats bar oil and dirt making you think that there’s damage.

You’re tripping bud.

Clean it up then before you post pictures, that can't back up your ASSertions. Want to try with "good" pictures again?

Now could You pull the chain along the bar groove over the sprocket, or not? Your videos seemed pretty clear, posts #36-38.

Have you checked the rim pitch yet?