Why would you want 3/8 instead of .325 on a 550?
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bsmith717
ArboristSite Operative
is Punked operating behind the scenes at arboristsite….
How is the latter not dictated by former?
bsmith717
ArboristSite Operative
I will get you a video.
thenne1713
ArboristSite Guru
You will need to expand/ clarify that question? Although, KERF is not listed in SPECS for any chain literature that I am aware of, other than the term NARROW KERF on (some) 325, and (generally) NOT of concern to timber harvesters or homeowners?
Maybe your problem is caused by that light coat of paint inside the groove that @coffeebrk wrote about.
Now maybe this paint has already been partially removed and thus the chain already slides better in the bar. You may want to look into the groove and see if there are any remnants of it still there.
Yes, posts # 36-38. You couldn't spin the chain in the bar, when it was off the saw.
So what was it then?
His B&C combination is precisely of the Narrow Kerf type.
thenne1713
ArboristSite Guru
<<BSSmith717 wrote:
If I put the chain on the bar and hold it I can spin it just fine. When I put the bar/chain on the saw and don’t tighten the cover nuts it also seems to spin fine. But as soon as I tighten the nuts it gets jammed as it comes around the back of the sprocket over the top from my observations.
if it’s really broken/factory defect it with be that much more of a shame as this is the only saw I have purchased brand new>>>
Suspicion is that either drive sprocket on saw does not match chain, or tension adjuster PIN in cover is not dropping into the hole in the bar, thus cover/ bar go crooked. I have seen newbies do both of these scenarios, sometimes both at same time and not look closely enough to realize what the real issue was.
If chain does not slide properly in the unmounted bar, either damaged bar, damaged chain links, or wrong pitch if sprocket tip bar.
If I put the chain on the bar and hold it I can spin it just fine. When I put the bar/chain on the saw and don’t tighten the cover nuts it also seems to spin fine. But as soon as I tighten the nuts it gets jammed as it comes around the back of the sprocket over the top from my observations.
if it’s really broken/factory defect it with be that much more of a shame as this is the only saw I have purchased brand new>>>
Suspicion is that either drive sprocket on saw does not match chain, or tension adjuster PIN in cover is not dropping into the hole in the bar, thus cover/ bar go crooked. I have seen newbies do both of these scenarios, sometimes both at same time and not look closely enough to realize what the real issue was.
If chain does not slide properly in the unmounted bar, either damaged bar, damaged chain links, or wrong pitch if sprocket tip bar.
bsmith717
ArboristSite Operative
It’s both.
The second post you quoted is just me saying I saw no damage on the drivers or the bar. It still was not spinning. See what I’m saying?
Damaged drivers. And plenty more I see........ Should not be on a "new" chain with < 5 min use. QED
Edit: Each one of those dings, act like a little "chock block" between the drivers and the bar rails. Especially so on a new B/C, that don't have much wear/clearance .
Then why, according to the OP, now the chain spins without a problem on the unmounted guide bar, when previously there was a problem with it? (Assuming I understood correctly what the situation is according to him now).
Here's some pics of the Husky and Speedcut bar. And also my Husky chain
I'm confused what OP is trying to say? Spin or no spin?
Do you see the damaged drivers? Would you expect those on a new chain with virtually no use?
OP posted video where he could not spin the chain, posts #36-38.
He still needs to find out if damage was because of a thrown chain, a different pitch rim, or both? That is why I said take the clutch off to check rim pitch, AND now file off the burrs.
Divers look perfect!!!
You could draw file the rails on the Oregon bar while you have it off, starting to get the edge to it.
Kerf changes as cutters wear.
Narrow kerf starts out with a smaller width, reducing demand on powerhead, and requiring a narrower guide bar for adequate clearance.
Also used on other types of saws (circular, hand, etc.). .
Philbert
My statement, if read in context with the previous question is correct.
The "difference" between 80TXL & standard .325 is the same as the difference between 3/8 LoPro & standard 3/8.
To put it another way, while 80TXL (or .325LP) is the same pitch as standard .325, it requires different drive sprockets as the chasis is smaller so the rolling diameter changes (just like 3/8LP & 3/8).
https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/speedcut™-nano-saw-chain,-12"/p/80txl051g
bsmith717
ArboristSite Operative
Thats bar oil and dirt making you think that there’s damage.
You’re tripping bud.
Just put a bar gauge on it for gosh sakes
Thats bar oil and dirt making you think that there’s damage.
You’re tripping bud.
Clean it up then before you post pictures, that can't back up your ASSertions. Want to try with "good" pictures again?
Now could You pull the chain along the bar groove over the sprocket, or not? Your videos seemed pretty clear, posts #36-38.
Have you checked the rim pitch yet?
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