Why would you want 3/8 instead of .325 on a 550?

[bsmith717]

Clean it up then before you post pictures, that can't back up your ASSertions. Want to try with "good" pictures again?

Now could You pull the chain along the bar groove over the sprocket, or not? Your videos seemed pretty clear, posts #36-38.

Have you checked the rim pitch yet?

Before/after steel brush.

The drivers are not damaged.

 

[bsmith717]

I will say that for some reason they look maybe marred in some instances. Maybe the lighting in the basement maybe it’s the oil I use. But I assure you the chain ain’t messed up.

 

[thenne1713]

It’s both.

The second post you quoted is just me saying I saw no damage on the drivers or the bar. It still was not spinning. See what I’m saying?

I do recall reading a post in past years from new owner of new saw pretty upset about engine performance until he finally determined issue was a bad roller on bar tip seizing intermittently.

 

[Mad Professor]

I will say that for some reason they look maybe marred in some instances. Maybe the lighting in the basement maybe it’s the oil I use. But I assure you the chain ain’t messed up.

From throwing a chain a lot of the drivers will be OK, some will be messed up, check each one.

If you have rim or bar sprocket mismatch all the drivers will get damaged.

 

[muddy42]

3/8 picco/lo pro works wonderful for milling lumber. Takes less power, cuts faster, and smaller kerf wastes less wood.

I've been running that on my 066 > 25 years now.

Good for you. Yes there are always exceptions, milling is a bit different where you need every ounce of power.

I've never felt my 088 was underpowered. Furthermore I regularly use my milling bars for normal saw work - felling or blocking up big knotty chunks of hardwood. I'm not sure Id want to use lopro for that.

 

[bsmith717]

From throwing a chain a lot of the drivers will be OK, some will be messed up, check each one.

If you have rim or bar sprocket mismatch all the drivers will get damaged.

I got my 3 pack of 66 drive link .050 .325 chain in from the dukes today and threw one on the 550. She spun up and threw chips like mechanical woodchuck!

I don’t have a hard time accepting that link damage this minute is stopping the chain from functioning properly (though it is a bit troubling on a chain this costly). But that one single completely run of the mill derailment caused it. Less than 2 minutes of run time….

 

[NSEric]

I got my 3 pack of 66 drive link .050 .325 chain in from the dukes today and threw one on the 550. She spun up and threw chips like mechanical woodchuck!

I don’t have a hard time accepting that link damage this minute is stopping the chain from functioning properly (though it is a bit troubling on a chain this costly). But that one single completely run of the mill derailment caused it. Less than 2 minutes of run time….

Every single time I derailed a chain, it messed up a couple of the drive links and the chain would bind in the bar rail. It doesnt matter how new or expensive the chain is.
If im running a cheap bar I'll just put it back on and run it until it frees up, if I want to save the bar I file the burrs off the drivers.

 

[PennHavenTW]

Hey fellows,

While we are on this bar and chain issue.

On a Stihl MS 261 with a 20" bar and .050 gauge and .325 pitch. It has the "new" light bar that Stihl came out with not so long ago. Full chisel cutters with out reduced kickback chain. Stihl chain.

It cuts great till I sharpen the cutters down to about halfway and then it really balks in the cut, esp when I am limbing and going through the branch collars or branch unions.

When cutting across the grain without any knots in the way, you'd never know there was an issue at all!!

I am not new to sharpening my chains. Been at it for 10 years plus,

I angle at the normal 30 degrees for sharpening the cutters, and take the depth gauges down to where you look down the bar like you look down a gun barrel and I see the top plate on the cutters.

I am sharpening with a hand file and using 3/16th files.

I tried replacing the bar and that helped some, but still does not take care of the issue.

I can still cut with the saw, but its just a pain when limbing conifers and you need to "wiggle" the bar the keep it cutting.

It cuts so far into the cut and then like binds up on the bar or something. Then the saw revs out because its not cutting wood so then I need to tilt the saw in the cut a little ("wiggle") to keep it cutting.

Very frustrating!!

Any ideas???.........................

 

[PennHavenTW]

Not to steal the show on this thread though!

I could start a new one if needed, but thought that this thread was on the topic already.

 

[Philbert]

Adjust your depth gauges with a guide, not by eye.

They often need additional material removed when the cutter is worn back that far.

You can use a deeper (0.030, 0.035) gauge, a feeler gauge, or a ‘progressive’ (angular) type tool.

Several threads on these.

Philbert

 

[epo]

On a Stihl MS 261 with a 20" bar and .050 gauge and .325 pitch. It has the "new" light bar that Stihl came out with not so long ago. Full chisel cutters with out reduced kickback chain. Stihl chain.

You didn't write what exact saw chain you are using. RS Pro (3690)?
If so, you can try increasing the top plate sharpening angle to 35° and see if that helps.
Another (probably better) option: change the chain, for example, to Oregon 20LPX.

Of course, first as @Philbert wrote, check the depth gauges settings.

 

[PennHavenTW]

26RSC 81E is the name of the Stihl chain I was using.

I thought about trying different chain @epo

I have used depth gauges already, but have had good results sharpening 3/8ths chain, .050 chain and .325, .063 chain without them.

But............ there is always something to learn.

 

[PennHavenTW]

26RSC 81E is the name of the Stihl chain I was using.

I thought about trying different chain @epo

I have used depth gauges already, but have had good results sharpening 3/8ths chain, .050 chain and .325, .063 chain without them.

But............ there is always something to learn.

I'm sorry, 23RS 81E is the chain

 

[epo]

26RSC 81E is the name of the Stihl chain I was using.

26 RS is a 1.6 mm/.063'' gauge chain. How can you use it with a 1.3 mm/0.050'' bar?

 

[epo]

I'm sorry, 23RS 81E is the chain

If your chain is a 3690 and not a 3637, the problem may be the reduced kerf width relative to the bar width. Especially if more than half of the tooth has already been ground off.
If this is the case, then as I wrote you can try that 35° sharpening angle. This should widen the kerf a bit.

 

[PennHavenTW]

If your chain is a 3690 and not a 3637, the problem may be the reduced kerf width relative to the bar width. Especially if more than half of the tooth has already been ground off.
If this is the case, then as I wrote you can try that 35° sharpening angle. This should widen the kerf a bit.

How would I tell the difference between 3690 and 3637?

 

[epo]

How would I tell the difference between 3690 and 3637?

If you have a box, there should be the first 4 digits of the product code, such as 3637 005 0081. In addition, if you have a 3690 chain, it should say 23 RS Pro on the box. Of course, this is assuming that whoever made the chain put it in the correct box.

 

[PennHavenTW]

If you have a box, there should be the first 4 digits of the product code, such as 3637 005 0081. In addition, if you have a 3690 chain, it should say 23 RS Pro on the box. Of course, this is assuming that whoever made the chain put it in the correct box.

3690-005-0081

This is the part # so it looks to be a 3690 chain.

Whether or not it is a Pro, I will need to check at the shop when I get there.

 

[epo]

3690-005-0081

This is the part # so it looks to be a 3690 chain.

Whether or not it is a Pro, I will need to check at the shop when I get there.

You don't have to. 3690 = 23 RS Pro ("narrow kerf").

 

[Philbert]

Narrow kerf chain has been common on Husqvarna saws for many years (they call it ‘Pixel’) and available from Oregon (‘MicroLite’), often designated with a special symbol on the bar or box:

STIHL just got into it a year or two ago (?); not sure what they call it.

Because they chip out less wood (‘narrow kerf’) it makes the saw feel like it has more power.

But they are intended to be used on narrower guide bars (thinner rails, even if the groove gauge remains the same).

One of my Husqvarna saws came with it, and I like it.

Philbert