Will Husky Roller File Guide Work on a Stihl?

[birdman]

After 20 years of freehand filing, I have decided I want to give some sort of guide a try.

I've read and read threads on sharpening, and the Husky Roller File Guide seems to be the favorite. Thus my title question, do they work on a Stihl?

The saw is a fairly late model 026 with a .325 Stihl chain, 16" Stihl bar and the chain box says "low kickback".

If they wont work, is a Stihl clamp-on I saw mentioned a couple of times a good alternative?

Thanks - Bird

 

[bwalker]

I use the gold color oregon guide with a 7/32 file on .325 Stihl RS chain. This combo results in a pretty agressive tooth profile that may not be the best for cutting dirty wood.
I dont know how the above combo will work in safety chain.

 

[Oregon_Rob]

I haven't heard anyone speak of this one, but it works well for me. Once I got the feel of it, I get a really good profile every time.

 

[SawTroll]

I use the gold color oregon guide with a 7/32 file on .325 Stihl RS chain. This combo results in a pretty agressive tooth profile that may not be the best for cutting dirty wood.
I dont know how the above combo will work in safety chain.

I am pretty sure it will not work on chain with bumper tie straps, like RM2.

With slight modifications they work great on both standard RS/RM, and also on Stihl chain with ramped drive links in front of the rakers, like the RSC3 and RMC3.

 

[Crofter]

I remember it being discussed in the past with the suggestion that you have to try it to see. The top surface of different manufacturers drive links and tie straps is not identical and the teeth can have different degrees of slope. A file guide designed for one might not give the proper file height or raker clearance when used on another company's chain. I think GLENS used a simple tie wrap on one combination of Stihl chain and Oregon roller guide to get the proper results. The same situation exists when using the Carleton Fil-O-Plate device on other chains than Carleton.

 

[SawTroll]

.... I think GLENS used a simple tie wrap on one combination of Stihl chain and Oregon roller guide to get the proper results. .....

Yes, that is what the link in my above post is about.

He has later described it more in detail, but regrettably on another forum....:censored:

My experience is that first of all you have to figure out which one to start with. In some cases, usually when you want to use it on .063, chain you also has to widen the slots that slide over the chain slightly. If done in the right way, that also changes the natural top-plate angle from 25 degrees to to close to 30 degrees, as recommended by Stihl.

 

[DanManofStihl]

Which color would you use for 3/8s pitch 50 ga change? I might have to buy one and try that. I saw them in the northern tool when I was in their last they look to be pretty handy.

 

[SawTroll]

Which color would you use for 3/8s pitch 50 ga change? I might have to buy one and try that. I saw them in the northern tool when I was in their last they look to be pretty handy.

I think the blue one made for most of the Oregon 70 series chain will be your best bet. That is also the one that I have modified for the .063 Stihl 36RSC and 36RM.
You may not have to widen the slots like I had to, but then you have to watch your angle if you want 30 degree top-plates.
Preferably get one of the combo guides, that include the raker guide.

 

[woodsrider]

Which color would you use for 3/8s pitch 50 ga change?

Agree with Troll -- the blue Husky guide is used for 3/8 pitch, 50 gauge. I think I paid $7-8 locally for the combination roller guide/depth guage.

 

[birdman]

I haven't heard anyone speak of this one, but it works well for me. Once I got the feel of it, I get a really good profile every time.

Went out this morning to everyplace I know of that deals with chain saws, I only located two types. The first was just a piece of metal with markings that the file fit into - my Stihl chain already has the angle markings on it so that was worthless IMO, plus you are still basically free handing. The second looks very much like the one in your picture. I found it at Sears for $21.99. The package says "Craftsman", but upon opening it clearly has "Oregon" stamped into it.

I was rather intimidated by the contraption at first but finally figured out how it worked. I played with an old chain for 20 minutes or so and felt I had its operation down pat.

I had free handed my chain and tried to cut some wood this morning before going shopping and the saw wouldn't cut worth a darn. Even better, it was cutting crooked which I have never managed to do before.

So I hook the new gizmo onto my bar and went to work - did 6 strokes on each tooth and took around 10-15 minutes or so. I went back to the log pile as was tickled to see that she cut BETTER than when I put the brand new chain on last week! Granted, the weather was different and I cut different logs (though still oak), but I am sure it cuts at least as good as the chain did out of the box and better than they do after a $9 "Pro" sharpening at my local dealer.

I can't comment on any other sharpener styles, but I give this my full nod of approval.

Thanks again everyone for your input

 

[skwerl]

Went out this morning to everyplace I know of that deals with chain saws, I only located two types. The first was just a piece of metal with markings that the file fit into - my Stihl chain already has the angle markings on it so that was worthless IMO, plus you are still basically free handing. The second looks very much like the one in your picture. I found it at Sears for $21.99. The package says "Craftsman", but upon opening it clearly has "Oregon" stamped into it.

I was rather intimidated by the contraption at first but finally figured out how it worked. I played with an old chain for 20 minutes or so and felt I had its operation down pat.

I had free handed my chain and tried to cut some wood this morning before going shopping and the saw wouldn't cut worth a darn. Even better, it was cutting crooked which I have never managed to do before.

So I hook the new gizmo onto my bar and went to work - did 6 strokes on each tooth and took around 10-15 minutes or so. I went back to the log pile as was tickled to see that she cut BETTER than when I put the brand new chain on last week! Granted, the weather was different and I cut different logs (though still oak), but I am sure it cuts at least as good as the chain did out of the box and better than they do after a $9 "Pro" sharpening at my local dealer.

I can't comment on any other sharpener styles, but I give this my full nod of approval.

Thanks again everyone for your input

Hey guys, we done hooked another one!

 

[Oregon_Rob]

Good to hear. Your speed should improve after a few times through.

 

[SawTroll]

Good to hear. Your speed should improve after a few times through.

Yes it will!

Just remember to use the inside of your head when using it, and use the right file size for the chain in question.

It's main virtue is that it helps you keep the file at the right height. It also gives you an indication conserning angles, but it is not fool proof.

 

[bwalker]

SawTroll, could you post a link to the thread which discusses GlenS' modification of the Husky guide to make it compatable with Stihl chain?