MountainHigh
Selective Tree whacker
OK, so I see a couple of things you need to address:
1. Check the recommended clearances in the manual - Next, get rid of the carpet around the stove. Install tile, or other non-flammable material instead.
2. Some stoves are more forgiving that others in what size they will accept.
As is always the case, but of even more important in your situation, make sure your wood is properly seasoned. With an oversized flue AND improperly seasoned wood, you are taking a big gamble.
Good points. Along with the circumference of the inner chimney flue, I would add that the length and placement of your chimney will also dictate how well it works. The Taller the chimney the more potential draft, especially on cold days, but the slower it will get up to temps that will get the draft pulling hard, so it might seem lazy on a warmer day.
Additionally, the placement of the chimney - if it's in the centre of the home, it will stay warmer and draft better. If it's on a cold outside wall, a perfect 6" size flue may be your only option.
I have a 28' clay tiled chimney built by an old school, highly skilled mason. It is in great shape and I inspect and clean it every year. Flue is 6"x10" rectangular - definitely oversize and not ideal shape, but because it's in the middle of the home and very tall, once up to temp, it pulls well (2 out of 3 stoves worked), and here's the big plus, some of the close surrounding brick work acts as a HUGE thermal mass heating 2 floors through it's awesome radiant heat. This is how they used to build homes in northern Europe and the Cdn Maritime Provinces - the home is built around a central chimney.
So that said, I am very reluctant to drop down a 6" SS flue (or in my case a 5 1/2" flue would fit) because there would be very little thermal mass contact and I'd likely only heat 1 floor of my home well.