Tuning a ported 066 RL

[blsnelling]

I didn't want to split the cases anyway. But I wouldn't put it past me had it been doable

 

[blsnelling]

Let me see if I can make this nice and concise. I really want to nail this down for all those that follow.

1. Which aluminum flywheels will fit on the small bearing 066 crank and will work with a non-limited coil? Evidentally the tech bulletin I have doesn't list them all. The only one I'm aware of is the 1122 400 1214. Andy tells me there are others.
2. Which non-limited coils will work with an aluminum flywheel? Again, they're not all listed in the tech bulletin I have and quoted from earlier.

The problem is that I have found no documentation that tells the backwards compatability for the coils and what flywheels they will work on.

 

[RiverRat2]

are the metal flywheel cranks different from the poly flywheel cranks?

yes,,,,,, different,,, the metal flywheel crank uses the same crank bearings but the seal on the flywheel side is smaller because the crank tapers faster and is smaller where it protrudes through the bearing and the case into the reccess where the seal resides,,,, they had a problem with breaking them off right behind the flywheel,,, so when they went to the poly flywheel they beefed up the end of the crank

I think you can find a coil that will work as lake suggested,,, I'm thinking an 064 coil and use a timing light to check it you may have to put it together without a key,,,,and it may bite you if you forget to bring it up almost to tdc before you toun on the ignition to start it but if you figure it out,,,,,, it ought to run like a scalded dog!!!!!!!!
what say ye Andy?????


is he off his Rocker???

yes

 

[blsnelling]

I think you can find a coil that will work as lake suggested,,, I'm thinking an 04 coil and use a timing light to check it you may have to put it together without a key,,,,and it may bite you if you forget to bring it up almost to tdc before you toun on the ignition to start it but if you figure it out,,,,,, it ought to run like a scalded dog!!!!!!!!
what say ye Andy?????

I'm not too fond of the no key solution. I know it's supposed to work, but hasn't for me. I've tried it and failed.

 

[Lakeside53]

I thought I'd answered this... Go with the 2000 ignitions tech bulletin; if not you're on your own...

Your best bet is to find a -1214 flywheel and the very common 0000 400 1300 ignition.

Any other non-limited coil for the old system is not available new.

 

[Lakeside53]

I'm not too fond of the no key solution. I know it's supposed to work, but hasn't for me. I've tried it and failed.

It's way too fine an adjustment for most to make. 40 degress is less then a 1/4 inch on the center hole, and you need to be within less than a degree.

 

[blsnelling]

How would you use a typical automotive timing light to compare coils? I'm assuming I'd have to place a mark on the flywheel, start the saw, remove the recoil housing while running, rev to WOT, and then mark on the case where the mark on the flywheel is lighting. I'd then repeat this procedure with the other coil and see if they both advance the same amount at WOT.

 

[blsnelling]

I just picked up a clean 1122 400 1214 flywheel for cheap. I'll sell the one I've got and be out next to nothing for that. What's interesting is that the flywheel has both the 1122 400 1214 PN and the 1122 400 1209 PN on its back side, since it has both keyways. Before switching, I'll check the timing advance on the RL coil. I'll then put on a 0000 400 1300 coil from one of my other saws and check the timing with it. I'd then like to pick up a 1122 400 1314 coil and see if it will work. Since it seems no ones done this before, I might as well be the Guinea Pig. I just need to find a 1122 400 1314 for the right price and we'll have an answer to this question.

 

[blsnelling]

I just realized I should have a 1122 400 1314 on my MS460! Bring on that flywheel.

Anyone able to clarify how to use the timing light?

 

[Lakeside53]

How would you use a typical automotive timing light to compare coils? I'm assuming I'd have to place a mark on the flywheel, start the saw, remove the recoil housing while running, rev to WOT, and then mark on the case where the mark on the flywheel is lighting. I'd then repeat this procedure with the other coil and see if they both advance the same amount at WOT.

Not really... forget the case mark..

You need to locate the exact TDC (I explained how in an old post) ... then mark the flywheel where you can see it (on the edge above the recoil). Everything is relative to that. If you're really into it, you can scribe 1 degree marks for 30-40 degrees before and few after tdc... but you'd need my rotary table to do that


You can also use the timing light that has the degree lag/gain built into the light as an adjuster - you just turn the pot until the light is at TDC, no matter what it really is, then read the dial.

You won't need to go to WOT to see the full advance...


1-2 degrees is a lot of varience when you are close to the edge at the high RPM, so be super accurate in your setup and analysis. Yes, you can push it beyond the factory settings for sure, but at the expense of piston and bearing life.

 

[Lakeside53]

I just realized I should have a 1122 400 1314 on my MS460! Bring on that flywheel.

Good. I won't have to mess around trying that.

 

[blsnelling]

Not really... forget the case mark..

You need to locate the exact TDC (I explained how in an old post) ... then mark the flywheel where you can see it (on the edge above the recoil). Everything is relative to that.

I understand how to find TDC. Once I find it and mark the flywheel, don't I need a coresponding mark on the case or recoil? Then my advance markings need to be on the case/recoil as well? How many degrees are we talking about here.

 

[Lakeside53]

Oh... I see what you mean., Yes a mark (or any pointer) on the case corresponding to the TDC on the flywheel is required. I just used point scribe on a mag base holder setup, but a notch on the top of the case would be fine. Much better to put the other marks on the top edge of the flywheel... where you can see them past the recoil.

I already told you the degrees..

 

[Lakeside53]

I put an 0000 400 1300 coil on my 064 today. Moved the flywheel 40 degrees to the "B" slot. Perfect... Didn't have time to try a -1314 coil... had to get it to UPS..


That coil (found on most stihl pro saws up to the 044) will also work on the 066 (non-poly flywheel) if you have a -1214 flywheel.

 

[blsnelling]

...if you have a -1214 flywheel.

I will have shortly. Are there any advantages to the smart coil other than easier starting?

 

[Tzed250]

But now the RL is not going to work...

 

[Lakeside53]

I will have shortly. Are there any advantages to the smart coil other than easier starting?

With the factory specified FW and coil combination - "better" idle, no-reverse run (rare), less snap at starting (no problem with elastostart).

For what you are going to try to go...Hard to say... particularly if you are putting on a non-rated flywheel.

 

[blsnelling]

Not sure what you mean by non-rated flywheel. I'm putting on a 1122 400 1214 flywheel, specified for the non-limited coil.

 

[Lakeside53]

Not sure what you mean by non-rated flywheel. I'm putting on a 1122 400 1214 flywheel, specified for the non-limited coil.

No ... that's specifed for the non-limited DUMB coil - the -1300. The -1314 coil is the "smarter" coil.


if you can find a -1311 coil anywhere, maybe..

 

[blsnelling]

Hey Andy

I've got the correct 1122 400 1214 flywheel coming. The 1122 400 1311 coil is the latest coil listed with the aluminum flywheels. Is it unlimited and is it "smart"? I've got a line on one if so.