So are you saying I should leave the angle at zero.
You need to decide if that 10 degree angle makes a difference for
you.
You can see from the other comments that some people file each chain the way it came. Some file all of theirs the same.
My recommendation is to not change back and forth on the same chain as that takes extra filing time and wastes cutter life.
. . . when it switched from one side to the other the file needed to be adjusted up out of the gullet as it was too low. Now when setting the guide on the saw there is no way i can see to set it up at the same hight every time? you can pinch the bar with the thumb screw when the screw gets down on the bar enough to grab the bar or you can lower it more and more untill the chain gets caught on it and will not slide through the gadget.
You should not be removing the Granberg from the bar when you switch sides. Only loosening the top cap, rotating the the file frame around 180 degrees (or so), and flipping the file frame over. Maybe making a few, minor adjustments (after all, it is a guide, but hardly a precision instrument).
Depending on the model you have, the little side plates 'clamp' loosely just above the chain rivets to help hold the chain down, but not so tightly that they restrict the chain from being pulled forward to file the next cutter. (Note: If you are filing with the bar on the saw, you can tighten chain tension and apply the chain brake to also stabilize the chain).
As noted earlier, your file should be positioned relative to the top plate (20 percent of the file diameter above it - like in the Oregon manual), not relative to the bottom of the gullet. You can go back and re-shape or clean out your gullet later, if you want to, but the key thing is getting the proper angle and profile of the top plate and side plate edges - your file should do a smooth job on
both of these edges.
Practice on smoothness over speed and soon you will be a pro!
Philbert