GRANBERG FILE-N-JOINT I need a how to if someone can help?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
There is a guy (George N. Lawrence) on Amazon that gives a very extensive review and instructions. I have never used one, but others said is review is very good and helps. Go to Amazon and search "Granberg G-106B" I am too computer illiterate to figure out how to paste the link, but this should get you there. Good luck.
 
From the end of the bar, you can look across the top plates of the cutters and see if they are 10 degree or straight.

I always set the guide to the way the chain is.
 
Well there is nothing "complicated " if it bugs you that i asked a question just dont answer i guess. I have been hand / free filing for 35 years with no issues at all.I just had this given to me today and wanted to know if anyone else noticed a diffrence from one side to another thats all. All I have ever heard is what a great rig this is and I want to be sure I was not missing somthing important as I have no instruction manual with this unit. Unlike some there are a few things in this world that I do not kown everything about I need to, or think I should know.

Only one being bugged here is you. I was simply stating the obvious in an attempt to demystify what needed it. So that doesn't silence me, eh? Try to relax. Watch some videos, think, experiment. What works, go with it.

Again, simply: set up for one side, filing inside-out; rotate head to same angle, other side; do other side cutters.
Yes, it's that simple. Filing flat works for all cutter types for me, just not square ground.

Grammar is a plus.
 
I follow all the manufacturer's specs for all my chains that I sharpen,

but as some of you have said, the chains do pretty good just to do all of them at the same angles.

When you take your chains to the dealer to get them sharpened, more than likely the kid sharpens them all the same.
 
Yea if you can find them send them to me if ya want and I will try the print thing.
I saw theis site on the web eariler but the file and joint I have is not like the ones in the video mine is not powered.

Jeff, I have hard copies of the Granberg manual and no scanner. I'm pretty sure that I found a manual online, but if I downloaded it, I did so quite a few years ago and it would be on one of my old computers.

If you don't find what you need online, or figure it out, send a PM with your address. One factor is I just looked for the docs, but the satchel where I keep a lot of my chainsaw docs is MIA, but it's around here somewhere. I'm 99% sure that you will find the info that you need here on AS & online.

Don't get too stressed. Some people can see a pile of parts, a mechanical device, etc., and automatically know how to assemble it, use it, etc. I'm a written instructions kind of person.
 
There is a guy (George N. Lawrence) on Amazon that gives a very extensive review and instructions. I have never used one, but others said is review is very good and helps. Go to Amazon and search "Granberg G-106B" I am too computer illiterate to figure out how to paste the link, but this should get you there. Good luck.

Thanks to everyone who helped,
A little further on down a fella sent me the link to instructions. I will look at the video though I have the granberg g106a btw. I have been in the shop practicing w/an old chain kinda cool I guess. Thanks Jeff
 
Last edited:
From the end of the bar, you can look across the top plates of the cutters and see if they are 10 degree or straight.

I always set the guide to the way the chain is.

I agree with the way the chain was made idea, I just left it at 10 because the guy who had it before me had it that way. It turns out he really had no idea any more than me. I just wanted the instructions so I could check it to see if I was missing anything important. Thanks Jeff
 
I follow all the manufacturer's specs for all my chains that I sharpen,

but as some of you have said, the chains do pretty good just to do all of them at the same angles.

When you take your chains to the dealer to get them sharpened, more than likely the kid sharpens them all the same.

yep you know your right I bet the settings hardly ever get changed.
 
So are you saying I should leave the angle at zero.

You need to decide if that 10 degree angle makes a difference for you.
You can see from the other comments that some people file each chain the way it came. Some file all of theirs the same.
My recommendation is to not change back and forth on the same chain as that takes extra filing time and wastes cutter life.

. . . when it switched from one side to the other the file needed to be adjusted up out of the gullet as it was too low. Now when setting the guide on the saw there is no way i can see to set it up at the same hight every time? you can pinch the bar with the thumb screw when the screw gets down on the bar enough to grab the bar or you can lower it more and more untill the chain gets caught on it and will not slide through the gadget.

You should not be removing the Granberg from the bar when you switch sides. Only loosening the top cap, rotating the the file frame around 180 degrees (or so), and flipping the file frame over. Maybe making a few, minor adjustments (after all, it is a guide, but hardly a precision instrument).

Depending on the model you have, the little side plates 'clamp' loosely just above the chain rivets to help hold the chain down, but not so tightly that they restrict the chain from being pulled forward to file the next cutter. (Note: If you are filing with the bar on the saw, you can tighten chain tension and apply the chain brake to also stabilize the chain).

As noted earlier, your file should be positioned relative to the top plate (20 percent of the file diameter above it - like in the Oregon manual), not relative to the bottom of the gullet. You can go back and re-shape or clean out your gullet later, if you want to, but the key thing is getting the proper angle and profile of the top plate and side plate edges - your file should do a smooth job on both of these edges.

Practice on smoothness over speed and soon you will be a pro!

Philbert
 
Thanks for the advice, I went out and did some practicing on an old chain and got a little better at it. I think the more I do the better I will get.

Pretty soon you will be asking people to let you file their chains for them, or scrounging old ones off of A.S. (not that I know anyone like that . . . )!

Philbert
 
Yep. Were all on about the same page here. I think there is a learning curve with the FnJ. I know there has been one for me.

I have taken to filing outside in because at 10' I think the tooth moves around less with down and in pressure compared to starting on the bottom inside and pushing up with the file. I also keep the rakers filed. A big improvement for sure.

It all beats paying a shop or chasing down someone with a grinder. Dull a chain and I am up and running again in no time. Without the FnJ thats a trip to town or farther.
 
Somewhat reluctant to post mortem an old thread, but maybe it's better than creating yet another similar thread on the FnJ. Anyway this zip file is a complete camera copy of Granberg G-106A instruction paper from 1978, that somewhat 'clearer' than online link.
More importantly, the IPL and exploded parts diagram is included. Just a wag, but the difference between the 106 and 107 maybe in the front and rear file-guide bar brackets (part #160,, 164) and the file angle bushings that hold the file in the brackets. Course, could also be way out to lunch on this too. :)
Only a 107 parts list will tell for certain the differences with the 106.
 

Attachments

  • G-106A-doc (Small).zip
    545 KB
I love my Granberg FNJ, 1979 version. But I got tired of mounting the chain on a bar attached to a saw and having to constantly level the unit on teh bar. So I took an old 0.050 bar as that is all I run. I put it in my vice loosely, put the chain to be sharpened in the bar, set the Granberg FNJ to the exact right height, tightened it up, and then lowered the FNJ to where it rested on the vice. I made sure the sprocket was to the left. I marked the location of the top of the vise on the chain with magic marker and then took the entire rig apart. I took a thin piece of oak with a flat edge and epoxied it to the bar with the flat edge on the mark for what was the top of the vise. Now all I have to do is set the bar in the bar in the vise with the bottom of the wood strip on the top of the vise, place the chain in the bar and lower the Granberg FNJ to the top of the strip. It is perfectly positioned every time and all I have to do is tighten the screws.
 
"You know the rule: "Photos or it didn't happen"!"

If I could figure out how to post the pictures I just took, I would.

It is really quite simple. Epoxy/fasten a strip of anything that will position the Granberg at the proper height on an old bar so that when you put the bar in a vise and put a chain on the bar, you can just slide the FNJ down to the top of the strip and tighten the screws for the bar clamp and the chain clamp. I cannot believe the amount of time this saves me.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top