HUSKY 350 Blues

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old-cat

Fir Man
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I bought an ebay 350 "parts or repair" saw for TOO much$$$. The seller bought it from a neighbor and didn't really know the true condition. The owner must have been running it with a red hot muffler for a long time. The oil tank it TOAST!! Melted. I replaced parts and got it running but the tank has a small leak right under the muffler. Is it possible to repair. Sorry, no pics.
 
Those are notorious for bolts backing out or stripping then the operated continues to run till melt down.
People will use 346 bracket and cut right tab off. That will help vibrating loose.
To your original question I'm sure there is threads on epoxying them.
 
Clean it up good, down to unburnt plastic and use JBWeld.

Now stop messin with these plastic case saws and get ya some more 353s' and 346s'. o_O

I used a carbide burr and cleaned the hole up real good. I have regular JB Weld but I thought it was NOT for plastic? They do make some FOR plastic. High heat is a problem also.
I was going to sell this saw but I also wanted to put the big squish gap, Meteor cylinder to work. The only way I can see to make that cylinder higher compression is to take .030" off the 350 adapter block.
Which I am in the process of doing now. By hand, WORK! I think it's going to run really good when I get done.
 
Ok, she's looking GOOD now! The saw is half way together, the piston and cylinder are on after I shortened the hold down screws and made some clearance on both sides for the transfer ports. I checked the squish gap without base gasket and got .012"!!!!!!!!!! I'll make a .005" gasket and be right where I want it.
The major stoppage now, I don't have a way to hook the degree wheel to the crank, so I can finish my porting.
The JB Weld is looking GOOD for now, time will tell.
 
Ok, I got my degree wheel on and measured the exhaust port timing, ground about half way to my mark, then I checked my timing again to see how I was doing. OOOOPS! I went tooo far. I've got 101 degrees exhaust opens. I wanted 105* I hope to do better with the transfer ports.
 
I've been cutting cookies with this thing and I am VERY pleased with it!
I wish someone would send me another so I could do a repeat.
PM me if you are interested.
 
I used a carbide burr and cleaned the hole up real good. I have regular JB Weld but I thought it was NOT for plastic? They do make some FOR plastic. High heat is a problem also.
I was going to sell this saw but I also wanted to put the big squish gap, Meteor cylinder to work. The only way I can see to make that cylinder higher compression is to take .030" off the 350 adapter block.
Which I am in the process of doing now. By hand, WORK! I think it's going to run really good when I get done.

I assume that piston is a flat top 353 one, provided the saw is a 51.7cc one, with the 353 cylinder?
 
Is this hot saw the reason you are getting rid of the "fast" 260? Russ

I have TOO many saws and I'm way short on funds for my 353 project. 3 saws for sale and nobody's buying!!!

It's really NOT a hot saw, it's not screaming fast like my MS260, it just has LOTS of grunt and it does cut fast.
 
Overall the 350 likely is he very best plastic cased "homeowner" saw ever made - but the muffler surely needs to be kept in place.

I was REALLY leary about using a 350 but I like how the bearings are fully enclosed in shock absorbing seal so that might keep the plastic case from getting pounded to death.
I'm keeping a close look on the muf screws.
Yes, the piston is 353 flat top and my compression is 165 psi now.
 
Nice - nothing to worry about really, the 350 case can take a 44.3mm 346xp top end if you want to - you just have to make room in the case for the wider bulges over the transfers of that cylinder.
 
Ok, she's looking GOOD now! The saw is half way together, the piston and cylinder are on after I shortened the hold down screws and made some clearance on both sides for the transfer ports. I checked the squish gap without base gasket and got .012"!!!!!!!!!! I'll make a .005" gasket and be right where I want it.
The major stoppage now, I don't have a way to hook the degree wheel to the crank, so I can finish my porting.
The JB Weld is looking GOOD for now, time will tell.
JB Weld will work just fine, but like other epoxies will loosen with enough heat on it. Under the muffler I generally use copper or aluminum tape on the plastic, depending on what I have on hand.
 
I have TOO many saws and I'm way short on funds for my 353 project. 3 saws for sale and nobody's buying!!!

It's really NOT a hot saw, it's not screaming fast like my MS260, it just has LOTS of grunt and it does cut fast.
If you're trying to sell it on ebay things are really slow now. I'm going to wait until next month and try again...
 
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