Lubrication prior to running a rebuilt saw?

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bplust

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Hi all,

I was wondering if before starting up a saw that was torn apart and rebuilt (so very very clean), it was required to lubricate the crank, cylinder, and anything else so that you don't burn it up, like running a 4 cycle with no oil.

Obviously, I've never torn a saw apart, so I figured I'd ask before I destroy my work.

Thanks!

Bryan
 
lube everything you mentioned generously with the 2 stroke oil you will be using. Some say the full synthetic mix may not let the rings seat for a while....slowing down break in. So i would use non synthetic oil for doing this. If this is your first time..at least you had enough sense to ask....hope it all goes well.
 
lube everything you mentioned generously with the 2 stroke oil you will be using. Some say the full synthetic mix may not let the rings seat for a while....slowing down break in. So i would use non synthetic oil for doing this. If this is your first time..at least you had enough sense to ask....hope it all goes well.

+ 1 on all points
 
I lubricate them with something in reach. I've used STP, white lithium grease, two cycle oil, regular motor oil. Never could tell any difference.

IMO, the few revolutions before it's burnt and gone is meaningless in the scheme of things. Of course, some of these guys will tell you how to build an atomic clock.
 
I lubricate them with something in reach. I've used STP, white lithium grease, two cycle oil, regular motor oil. Never could tell any difference.

IMO, the few revolutions before it's burnt and gone is meaningless in the scheme of things. Of course, some of these guys will tell you how to build an atomic clock.

lithium grease? wont that be like oil and water with 2 stroke mix? the BEST is what you use to lube the saw in the first place..2 stroke oil
 
wont that be like oil and water with 2 stroke mix?

Nonsense. You can use two stroke mix or any thin oil to get grease off of your hands.

You can make all kinds of logical reasons to do this or that, and by all means do what you think is right. Point is that you will absolutely never tell any difference between one lubricant or another slicking the cylinder up after a rebuild.
 
Where is the oil? It is in the mix. Where is the mix? It is all over the inside of the saw and on all the surfaces you want to lube, before it even fires the first pop. If it wasn't you would have to lube the saw each time, before you fired it up! Two strokes aren't four strokes. Oil them up, as you build, so you will feel good.
 
Where is the oil? It is in the mix. Where is the mix? It is all over the inside of the saw and on all the surfaces you want to lube, before it even fires the first pop. If it wasn't you would have to lube the saw each time, before you fired it up! Two strokes aren't four strokes. Oil them up, as you build, so you will feel good.

Yeah, but they slip together a little better. Kinda like KY jelly.
 
Andy you can't think of ANY reason? Start that newly rebuilt in the garage and choke to death. Start it outside (in the city) and have the neighbors calling the fire department. Start it by the pond and kill all the skeeters! You oil them up good and they put out a cloud of smoke on startup. Oil in the muffler and screen too. New plug and combustion chamber gets a head start on the carbon deposits. Top of the piston gets all black. Maybe these aren't reasons?
 
wow, just read that whole other thread. Seems to me that no one is suggesting no oil, just suggesting LIGHT oil. Whether it gets to the rings from the piston skirt/cylinder lube or your finger, it's still getting there. Me, I plunk a fat finger in Klotz R50 and lube lightly on a well cleaned p/c with particular attention to the bearings and pin.
 
Not lubing everything during assembly makes no sense at all to me. Never again in it's life will it ever run dry again. Since when is a dry wear surface a good idea in ANY internal combustion engine? Not in my saws.
 
It is flat amazing to me how many of you guys swear by 50:1 mix (which is way to lean on lube for me) when an engine is turning 13,000, but put straight oil on everything when an engine is static because you want good lube. WOW!
 
In my experience, I haven't found any detrement to lubing everything up a little with 2 stroke oil.

Bob
 
If you really screwed up and didn't lube things right, just dump/flood the bottom end with mix, pull the plug and a couple of pulls..........

Thats all that is going to be in there anyway.

Reading this, I was thinking the exact same thing.
 
wow, just read that whole other thread. Seems to me that no one is suggesting no oil, just suggesting LIGHT oil. Whether it gets to the rings from the piston skirt/cylinder lube or your finger, it's still getting there. Me, I plunk a fat finger in Klotz R50 and lube lightly on a well cleaned p/c with particular attention to the bearings and pin.

Less definitely is more on the piston.
 

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