Lubrication prior to running a rebuilt saw?

[jimdad07]

Not to get off track, just a newbie question, but isn't the cross-hatching in the cylinder wall there so that the rings can be lubed while the engine is running? Not trying to be smart, just seriously wanting to know.

 

[jimdad07]

Sorry, should have read further, I found my answer on the last page.

 

[Andyshine77]

Not to get off track, just a newbie question, but isn't the cross-hatching in the cylinder wall there so that the rings can be lubed while the engine is running? Not trying to be smart, just seriously wanting to know.

That and to help the rings seat.

Now make sure the cross-hatching is 20 degrees and the hone was ran at 221.2 rpm, if not the rings will never seat and saw will blow up.

 

[edisto]

No kidding my whole point is that the excess oil gets used almost immediately, so in reality and within reason when assembling an engine coat everything with oil as it does no harm.

If the excess oil gets used up immediately, then there is no problem.

The problem is that it doesn't get used up. If there is enough oil to prevent the rings from pressing against the cylinder with sufficient pressure, then oil stays on the cylinder wall. The heat from combustion oxidizes that oil, glazing the cylinder wall. Once glazing occurs, bedding in of the ring stops.

Breaking in under low or no load causes the same phenomenon. In this case the combustion pressure in insufficient to force the rings against the cylinder with the proper pressure, and so a film of oil is left to oxidize.

A similar phenomenon can occur if breaking in occurs under too high of a load. If the rings get too hot, that heat can oxidize the oil on the cylinder wall causing glazing to occur.

If you are happy with the compression you get after assembly, then there's no need to change. Could you get a better seal with less lube on the piston and rings? It certainly is a possibility.

 

[Andyshine77]

If the excess oil gets used up immediately, then there is no problem.

The problem is that it doesn't get used up. If there is enough oil to prevent the rings from pressing against the cylinder with sufficient pressure, then oil stays on the cylinder wall. The heat from combustion oxidizes that oil, glazing the cylinder wall. Once glazing occurs, bedding in of the ring stops.

Breaking in under low or no load causes the same phenomenon. In this case the combustion pressure in insufficient to force the rings against the cylinder with the proper pressure, and so a film of oil is left to oxidize.

A similar phenomenon can occur if breaking in occurs under too high of a load. If the rings get too hot, that heat can oxidize the oil on the cylinder wall causing glazing to occur.

If you are happy with the compression you get after assembly, then there's no need to change. Could you get a better seal with less lube on the piston and rings? It certainly is a possibility.

Anything is possible, but in reality very very very unlikely. If I lived life thinking about every possibility and every outcome I'd never leave the house.

 

[edisto]

BLAH FREAKING BLAH FREAKING GLAZING BLAH BLAH!!!!!!!!

the general consensus is to use a little 2-stroke oil on the wrist pin, rod end bearing and on the piston. Make poll or something. Sounds like a bunch of girls arguing about who's skirt is cuter.:deadhorse:

My thoughts exactly, Thanks to all the di**heads & a**holes who ruined a perfectly good thread for those of us who want to learn something. If you can't make a contribution to the thread without bringing up your personal grievances that you just can't let go of, then DON"T FREAKING POST! The trolls need to be banned, it's plain and simple.

p.s. Brad, I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and work and look forward to seeing more of your threads in the future, once the trolls have gone back under the bridge.

:monkey:

 

[fidiro]

I don't like oil on my fries.:nailbiting:

 

[FATGUY]

I love pre lubing so much I don't even assemble a sandwich without Klotz. (only on one piece of bread because on both would be overkill and probably give me heart burn)

 

[Andyshine77]

Hi Nik!

 

[FATGUY]

Hi Andre!

 

[edisto]

Nikasil cylinder coating is designed to hold oil in it it's pores to aid in lubrication. I never suggested the rings need a constant bath of oil and I never suggested that cylinder coatings are softer than the rings. You guys are over thinking this, and you are both arrogant as hell.

I think I've been both civil and patient. Would it be better if we started calling people idiots?

Glazing due to improper break-in is a real issue. I didn't make it up. You can look it up if you are interested, or ignore it if you don't want to overthink anything.

Personally, I'm going to do whatever I can to get an effective seal. It helps me sleep at night.

That and to help the rings seat.

Now make sure the cross-hatching is 20 degrees and the hone was ran at 221.2 rpm, if not the rings will never seat and saw will blow up.

Cart before the horse actually. A big part of seating the rings is to wear down the "peaks" on the cylinder wall to provide a bearing surface for the rings, and decrease the depths of the "valleys", so that they don't hold too much oil. If glazing occurs before proper seating i, the valleys are too deep, and hold too much oil, and oil will be burned (increasing oil consumption in a 4-stroke).

Anything is possible, but in reality very very very unlikely. If I lived life thinking about every possibility and every outcome I'd never leave the house.

A lot of people seem to feel that thinking is overrated.

 

[edisto]

I love pre lubing so much I don't even assemble a sandwich without Klotz. (only on one piece of bread because on both would be overkill and probably give me heart burn)

That, or carbon buildup...

 

[jimdad07]

That and to help the rings seat.

Now make sure the cross-hatching is 20 degrees and the hone was ran at 221.2 rpm, if not the rings will never seat and saw will blow up.

Thanks for the strait answer, I can sleep tonight.

 

[blsnelling]

Do you really think carbon can build up from the small amount of oil used to lightly lube a new engine? Not only is the engine cold at initial startup, but that oil's going to burn off long before any carbon builds up. Neither is that initial lube of oil going to cause the rings to glaze.

 

[ZeroJunk]

I think I am going to use lard on one I have in the shop.

 

[Andyshine77]

I think I am going to use lard on one I have in the shop.

Talk to Nik about the whole lard thing.

 

[blsnelling]

I think I am going to use lard on one I have in the shop.

And it would be just fine. I don't think any of these techniques really make that much difference. Use too much, and it gets burned off very quickly. Don't use any, and it will be lubed within just a few revolutions.

 

[fidiro]

olive oil

 

[FATGUY]

what the hell is that supposed to mean shine boy? Perhaps you should pay more attention to your reading comprehension and less to my caloric intake!

 

[Andyshine77]

Is your butt glazing?