Oregon chain filing - file "down angle"

[RED WOOD]

Several series of OREGON chains (LP, LPX, LGX, etc.) show the file angle to be tilted down 10 degrees in the back when sharpening. It also has an * asterisk by the little filing guide icon that says to hold at 90 degrees to the bar when using an Oregon hand filing guide. I have an Oregon chain filing guide that clamps right on the bar. My question is do I set my filing guide up to hold that 10 degree down angle or just set it up at 90 degrees to the bar? I sharpened 3/8" LGX chain last night with the 10 degree angle and I really had to be careful on the height adjustment so I wasn't filing into the tie strap on the chain. Anybody else have this problem? :msp_confused:

 

[Jimmy in NC]

I have done and will do them both ways. I find that the 10* angle gives a chain a bit more self feed and some like it and some don't. If a user has a tendency to force a saw through the cut, I leave it 90* to the bar. I like it to self feed myself. I don't notice a huge difference in over all speed though. Getting into the tie strap lightly isn't the end of the world.

 

[Tzed250]

What size file? Is 20% of the file above the top plate?

 

[craig71]

Dropping your file 10 degrees will give you less of a hook on your side plate and a sharper top plate on your chain tooth. I would say that keeping your file at 90 degrees would give you a more aggressive edge and would cut slower than lowering the file. I might be totally wrong and it will be interesting to read different opinions in this thread.cheers.

 

[RED WOOD]

What size file? Is 20% of the file above the top plate?

7/32" file is what it calls for. Yea, I have the height adjusted more than 20% above top plate to stay out of tie straps and so the file doesn't ride under the top plate too much.

 

[RED WOOD]

Dropping your file 10 degrees will give you less of a hook on your side plate and a sharper top plate on your chain tooth. I would say that keeping your file at 90 degrees would give you a more aggressive edge and would cut slower than lowering the file. I might be totally wrong and it will be interesting to read different opinions in this thread.cheers.

I had been keeping the file at 90 degrees to the bar before I really looked at the chain box to see that 10 degree angle. Will be interesting to see if there is a noticible difference in the cut. Guess I am just used to Sharpening Stihl chains.

 

[SawTroll]

Regarding up/down angle, I just follow the angle of the top plate - and keep in mind that 20% of the file should be above the top plate. Obviously, I don't use any "guide", and just look closely at what I am doing. :msp_wink:

 

[roberte]

View attachment 274043
30 and 10. Out to in.
Do with it what you will.

 

[woodchuck357]

We measured the angle I hold the file

when I was teaching the other fire fighters the way I filed the saws, and came up with 5 to 7 degrees down at the tip. I tried many different guides and find them all a pia. I look at the shape of the teeth often to make sure there is the proper amount of hook.

I also am one who likes the saw to feed its self. I can't remember the last time I used dogs when bucking.

 

[woodchuck357]

Oh, yeah

as the tooth gets worn down, go to a smaller file.

 

[RED WOOD]

View attachment 274043
30 and 10. Out to in.
Do with it what you will.

Interesting. Yes, that is exactly the same file guide I have but I file in to out, back to front, however you want to express it. Seems as though the file stroke would be a bit choppy but looks like it works for you.

 

[SawTroll]

as the tooth gets worn down, go to a smaller file.

Yes, but only 1/64", not 1/32" - that is mostly too much.

I keep 7/32, 13/64, 3/16, 11/64 and 5/32 files around, in sufficient numbers.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

..... but looks like it works for you.

That's it exactly. What works for me doesn't work for my dad. I'm not trying to be rude but trying to encourage you to try different things and find what works for you, your local species of wood, and you find easily repeatable. The biggest thing with sharpening chains is being consistent and being able to repeat it over and over.

Best filing advice I can give is get comfortable. It makes the job much easier. For me it's on the bench, Granberg or Oregon guide, lots of light, stool, and some music. I kill many hours this way.

 

[roberte]

Interesting. Yes, that is exactly the same file guide I have but I file in to out, back to front, however you want to express it. Seems as though the file stroke would be a bit choppy but looks like it works for you.

I will put my sharpening skills up against anyones.

 

[SawTroll]

View attachment 274043
30 and 10. Out to in.
Do with it what you will.

I basically regard such guides as useless, and time consuming to use - but each to their own.

However, they may help someone that don't have a clue really, about what they are doing....

 

[roberte]

I basically regard such guides as useless, and time consuming to use - but each to their own.

However, they may help someone that don't have a clue really, about what they are doing....

well it beats keyboard sharpening

 

[SawTroll]

well it beats keyboard sharpening

 

[roberte]

I basically regard such guides as useless, and time consuming to use - but each to their own.

However, they may help someone that don't have a clue really, about what they are doing....

I basically regard freehand, handfiling as useless and time consuming, but to each his own. :msp_thumbdn:

 

[SawTroll]

I basically regard freehand, handfiling as useless and time consuming, but to each his own. :msp_thumbdn:

Sure is, if you don't know what to do, and why!

 

[Tzed250]

Does it look like this?:


F1 by zweitakt250, on Flickr




And like this?:


T1 by zweitakt250, on Flickr