royal purple 2 cycle TCW 3, whats a good ratio mix for all chainsaws old and new?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

rob jans

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Sep 14, 2011
Messages
33
Reaction score
3
Location
oppenheim ny
I have some royal purple 2 cycle oil,and been using it at 40:1, for all my saws old and new. Should I be using it at a different ratio 50:1 or higher,since it is supposed to be a good grade oil. :dizzy: Just dont want to use more than needed.
 
IMO....
TCW-3 is intended for liquid cooled 2-cycle engines and should NOT be used for any air cooled OPE....ie...chainsaws, trimmers, blowers etc..

Buy the proper stuff and quit using your outboard oil in yer saw.
 
If I was running a TCW-3 I would mix it 32:1. It is probably fine in older saws (I have used it with no negative effects) but a chainsaw specific oil would be better for the high rpm newer saws. ie, one for air cooled engines versus water cooled outboards.

I use all sorts of oil mixes with 100% success but everyone has their own concoctions which are "the only way". This is a topic that is beat to death on this and other forums. Do a search on oil mix types/ratios, etc. There must be hundreds of threads.
 
I called royal purple, and they said it works great in chainsaws,but they would not give me a ratio to go by. They said go by what the saw requires. Which would be silly using 16:1 on an old saw with modern oil. while other pre mixes 40:1 or 50:1 work just fine in them. Even amsoil sticks to there guns saying there 100:1 is fine. royal purple dosn't sound like it has a lot of confidence in there product. Thank:msp_tongue: you all for your oppinions.
 
Rob, keep going with 40:1 and you'll be fine.

I've been using the Royal P TCWIII for more than a year (between 32:1 & 40:1), and I freaking love it.

On heavily ported saws, I'd run it 32:1 myself, but that's just me.

So to all you guys saying it ain't the right oil, or it's bad and you'll blow a saw, I say. . . :spam:

I also add 2 ounces of friction reducer to 5 gallons of mix. I find it really helps as well, and I kinda dig the smell.
 
Not here to argue with anyone....PLEASE...!!!
Here is some information I would like to share with you. Take it or leave. Its your equipment.

The high flashpoint solvents used in TCw3 oils create deposit issues and since tcw3 oils contain no detergents...................

BTW every saw manual I have ever seen forbids the use of tcw3, watercooled oils.


Have a nice afternoon folks. I'm done here.
 
Not here to argue with anyone....PLEASE...!!!
Here is some information I would like to share with you. Take it or leave. Its your equipment.

The high flashpoint solvents used in TCw3 oils create deposit issues and since tcw3 oils contain no detergents...................

BTW every saw manual I have ever seen forbids the use of tcw3, watercooled oils.


Have a nice afternoon folks. I'm done here.

Well crap. . . Now yer gonna go make me check for deposits. . . I don't want deposits. :msp_ohmy:

I wasn't trying to tick ya off with my earlier post. . . Just messin' wit ya fellas. :cheers:

Might be false advertising, but this is what they say:

Royal Purple® 2-Cycle TCW III is recommended for use in both pre-mixed and oil injected gasoline two-cycle engines in outboard motors, motorcycles, jet skis, chain saws, etc. For cold weather oil injected applications, Royal Purple® recommends its Snow 2-C™. Royal Purple® 2-Cycle TCW III is a high performance engine oil that improves performance and reduces wear in both standard and high performance two-cycle gasoline engines. Royal Purple® 2-CycleTCW III has synthetic solvency that keeps spark plugs and exhaust ports clean for maximum engine efficiency. This engine cleanliness combined with the low coefficient of friction of Royal Purple® 2-Cycle TCW III promotes increased horsepower and engine speed. Engines operate with greater combustion efficiency and go longer between overhauls when lubricated with Royal Purple® 2-Cycle TCW III.
 
TCWIII means two cycle water cooled 3rd generation of standards. Chainsaws are two cycle but far from liquid cooled. TCW rated oils have no where near the low or no ash capabilities of a modern FC or FD rated oil. In fact the TCW rating system hasn't even been upgraded or changed since the early 90's. Why chance your saws well being for a few bucks? I on occasion will mix with Amsoil interceptor, its cheaper by the gallon than 2.6 ounce bottles are and its got a FC rating. I've sawed alot of board feet with my 394 with interceptor at 50:1 with 87 octane gas, no problems yet.
 
RP has removed the tcw III designation on their "racing" oil albeit the same formula. They recommend it at the manufacturers specs as they do in the automobile world.... Have also run it for the past year or more with out issue. Near every two stroke failure is due to an air leak....not oil.
 
RP has removed the tcw III designation on their "racing" oil albeit the same formula. They recommend it at the manufacturers specs as they do in the automobile world.... Have also run it for the past year or more with out issue. Near every two stroke failure is due to an air leak....not oil.

Out of curiosity, I just went out and looked at the 038 Super. . . It's ported.

The piston, right below the plug, has some spotty deposits. The rest of the piston is spotless, and I could eat off of the exhaust port. I tend to error on the side of a little fat too, so I'm sure that explains the limited deposits on the piston as well.
 
Not here to argue with anyone....PLEASE...!!!
Here is some information I would like to share with you. Take it or leave. Its your equipment.

The high flashpoint solvents used in TCw3 oils create deposit issues and since tcw3 oils contain no detergents...................

BTW every saw manual I have ever seen forbids the use of tcw3, watercooled oils.


Have a nice afternoon folks. I'm done here.

This statement is totally wrong. I used Pennzoils "premium Outboard & multi purpose oil in An old Sachs snowmobile engine mixed 40-1 and it cleaned the piston & exhaust port completely! It was 340ss fan cooled 26 hp from 1969 or so. I don't use this stuff in my saws but It cleaned ALL the carbon from that old engine!( the smoke burnt the eyeballs out of my head:laugh:) $50 sled engine vs $1000 chainsaw, not willing to continue the experiment:hmm3grin2orange:
 
This statement is totally wrong. I used Pennzoils "premium Outboard & multi purpose oil in An old Sachs snowmobile engine mixed 40-1 and it cleaned the piston & exhaust port completely! It was 340ss fan cooled 26 hp from 1969 or so. I don't use this stuff in my saws but It cleaned ALL the carbon from that old engine!( the smoke burnt the eyeballs out of my head:laugh:) $50 sled engine vs $1000 chainsaw, not willing to continue the experiment:hmm3grin2orange:

That's fine, but it's not the issue. The issue is preventing deposits in the ring groove(s) so that the ring(s) can move freely. When that fails, it's all downhill.
 
Rotal Purple 2-cycle oil

Hey guys, I've been running Royal Purple engine oil for about 16 years now, ever since I saw what it did for a turbocharged race engine my vehicles and tools have lived on the stuff!

I run the ""HP2-C"" version and well, I freekin love what it does! I run this stuff in every 2 stroke tool I have and this oil makes more power and rev-ability in every tool thus far. I have an MS-362 that I recently began to run the HP2-C at a 50:1 ratio. Only recently because my saw is not even a year old yet, and to get the extended warranty I had to purchase the Stihl synthetic oil. Well, it took a while for me to use that up! Now it's gone finally, some of which I gave away just to get it gone..... Nothing but Royal Purple now, finally! Here's the difference in a nutshell: More power and more revs (RPM).

For me to tell you all about is useless. It will cost you about $13.00 to prove it to yourself..... Muffler mods or porting, or just switch your breed of oil to gain????? Your call.

t3t4
 
If you look at the highest performance two strokes they run between 16:1 and 32:1 with the air cooled engines typically running more oil than the liquid cooled engines. Several engine builders have done extensive dyno studies and running more oil does not cost power, but running not enough oil can cost you dearly.

That said, as much as we love our saws, they pail in comparison to the hp and rpm that truly high performance two strokes run at. A state of the art 50cc two stroke will spin over 20,000 rpm and make 15 hp. Needless to say the piston and bearings in those engines face alot more abuse than a saw.

Damage to saws from oil failure is very rare, provided you run some oil and don't run the engine too lean you'll more than likely be find with most any two stroke oil at ratios between 32:1 and 50:1. You might even be able to get away with 100:1 for light duty use such as limbing.

Me, I like to keep things in my favor so run 32:1.
 
Hey guys, I've been running Royal Purple engine oil for about 16 years now, ever since I saw what it did for a turbocharged race engine my vehicles and tools have lived on the stuff!

I run the ""HP2-C"" version and well, I freekin love what it does! I run this stuff in every 2 stroke tool I have and this oil makes more power and rev-ability in every tool thus far. I have an MS-362 that I recently began to run the HP2-C at a 50:1 ratio. Only recently because my saw is not even a year old yet, and to get the extended warranty I had to purchase the Stihl synthetic oil. Well, it took a while for me to use that up! Now it's gone finally, some of which I gave away just to get it gone..... Nothing but Royal Purple now, finally! Here's the difference in a nutshell: More power and more revs (RPM).

For me to tell you all about is useless. It will cost you about $13.00 to prove it to yourself..... Muffler mods or porting, or just switch your breed of oil to gain????? Your call.

t3t4
That all sounds great, but how does it smell? :) Just about anything smells better than Stihl synthetic, but in relation to other "mild" smelling 2stroke oil, how does it stack up?
 
Damage to saws from oil failure is rare? I hear this a lot, think about it if a saw gets to hot or has a lean out condition what always happens? (Piston cylinder scoring) caused from a lack of oil otherwise known as viscosity.
 
Darwin working here

You go out and buy a nice chainsaw. You research and find the person you think will give you the best port job. You buy a super duper bar made out of something that makes it expensive. You buy an expensive grinder because the chain has to be perfect. Then when it comes to oil, you decide to go with advertising advice that goes against all the testing and experience of operators that have used chainsaws for years in the harshest conditions.

Sounds pretty normal from here.:msp_sad:
 
Back
Top