The Case for Full Wraps. (And Long Bars.)

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fishhuntcutwood

Full wraps and long bars!!!!!!!!!
Joined
Jan 1, 2005
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From IN, stationed in Port Angeles, WA, but AK is
For those that doubt the use of full wraps, or for those who aren't sure what they're for, as that question gets asked often, here's some illustrated proof from a Doug fir I worked today.

If someone can enbed these in order, that'd be great, but I don't have a place to stash these to do so, so you'll have to click on them from below.

The first pic "no cut" shows me on the uphill side of the cut, which would work fine and would be preferred, other than the large cedar sitting directly in the way. Were the cedar not there I'd of been able to cut from there, using the full wrap handle as I went. So that'd be the first case for it, allowing me to stand safely uphill of the cut with the bar down toward the tree, allowing me to dog and sweep into it....had the cedar not been there.

So the cedar IS there so I have to cut downhill from the tree. In the second pic, "downhill side" the saw is in the same kerf, but flipped over. You can see how the saw went from sitting comfortably at my knees to now at my shoulder, just in a matter of a few feet of repositioning due to slope. Now I'm able to use to use the full wrap portion here "downhill handle," again as I handle the saw from the underneath side and complete my notch. That'd be another case for the full wrap-all in the same tree.

This tree would have been a true hassle with a half wrap handle, and this kind of cutting situation is very, very common here. Obstructions and slope are the name of the game here.

This tree also illustrates the need for long bars out here. (But that's another thread entirely!) I needed to cut this tree all from one side. It was 30" give or take and you can see because of the cedar, I would not have been able to cut from each side with the 20" or 24" bar many would prefer on a 460 or 660 (which I used). I would have used a 32" as I initially had on the saw before these pics, but I wanted to make especially sure not to hit the cedar behind. So I awkwardly nipped away at the little piece of holding wood on the uphill side until enough was removed that I could go back downhill and complete the back cut up to the hinge and put the tree down.

All just FYI.

Jeff
 
You got it Fish! Even over here in central Oregon on the "flat side" of the hill a full wrap is a joy to work with.
 
So where ya cutting?

Looks like the canyon behind my barn, where are you cutting? But, this is Clallam Country, lots of similar hills.

Good post, for those that have not experienced the Pacific NW, a lot of the logging country is steeper than that in the photos. Crowded trees, Pistol Butts, big rocks, and the rest of the stuff a faller has to work around all make full wraps & long bars standard equipment. Yep, springboards too.
 
Thats why I either back bar my face cut or under on every tree. Just got used to having to make low stumps in many different situations.
 
woodfarmer said:
don't hold me in suspense where are the rest of the pics, the back cut and the fall?

Actually, those pics are on my 35 mm because it takes faster, better pics. I used the digi for the "posed" pictures to post here. I'm gonna get the 35 mm developed today, and on disc, so I'll see how they turn out and post them later today or tonight....they're coming.

Here's the aftermath....
 
Here in the East we totaly hate any saw with a wrap. Totaly useless here because we cut our stumps low, not to mention that they are a pita when itcomes to oiling up and removing the sidecover.
It's really that the guys in the West are a bunch of 'Backache Barney's', so they need every advantage to get them stumps as high as possible.
Yup, that's what it is.:)
Nice pictures though.
John
 
Gypo Logger said:
Here in the East we totaly hate any saw with a wrap. Totaly useless here because we cut our stumps low, not to mention that they are a pita when itcomes to oiling up and removing the sidecover.
It's really that the guys in the West are a bunch of 'Backache Barney's', so they need every advantage to get them stumps as high as possible.
Yup, that's what it is.:)
Nice pictures though.
John

HA! Thanks John. And actually, I just cut off and smooth the small end of the scrench, and it fits under the full wrap well.

Now if you'll excuse me, I've got to lay my back on a heating pad....:laugh:

Jeff
 
fishhuntcutwood said:
HA! Thanks John. And actually, I just cut off and smooth the small end of the scrench, and it fits under the full wrap well.

Now if you'll excuse me, I've got to lay my back on a heating pad....:laugh:

Jeff

They actually make screnches that are designed to fit under the full wraps. The socket is a little shorter, so it clears the handle. Works great.
 
TimberPig said:
They actually make screnches that are designed to fit under the full wraps. The socket is a little shorter, so it clears the handle. Works great.

I've seen those. Doesn't Bailey's carry them? But I've got so many regular screnches I couldn't bear buying a shorter one when I've got a nice band saw at work!

Tree Sling'r said:
I use the long scrench all the time - if your handle bars are bent then maybe you need a modded scrench.

The do rub a bit once in a whle on 3/4 wrap bars, so the modded ones just make it a bit easier.

Jeff
 
TimberPig said:
They actually make screnches that are designed to fit under the full wraps. The socket is a little shorter, so it clears the handle. Works great.
Yes, I have some, you can buy them here. This thread separtates the wheat from the chaff, so to speak, wrap handles and so called "big" dogs are there so you can use the saw to your best advantage. Those who don't use them to fall trees amaze me, this low stump thing for example, do you fall trees on your knees all day?, or what, probably don't use a humboldt either. Not just for falling, nice to have for bucking as well. Fishhuntcutwood-the next thread should be "why big dogs are good"
 
fishhuntcutwood said:
I've seen those. Doesn't Bailey's carry them? But I've got so many regular screnches I couldn't bear buying a shorter one when I've got a nice band saw at work!



The do rub a bit once in a whle on 3/4 wrap bars, so the modded ones just make it a bit easier.

Jeff

Baileys does sell them, but I've got them from local dealers as well. In your case, it sounds like your current setup works fine. Maybe for the next time you need to buy one, whenever that ends up being, you could see if the factory short version works any different than the cut off long socket version.
 
clearance said:
Yes, I have some, you can buy them here. This thread separtates the wheat from the chaff, so to speak, wrap handles and so called "big" dogs are there so you can use the saw to your best advantage. Those who don't use them to fall trees amaze me, this low stump thing for example, do you fall trees on your knees all day?, or what, probably don't use a humboldt either. Not just for falling, nice to have for bucking as well. Fishhuntcutwood-the next thread should be "why big dogs are good"

Big dogs are good so that you can buck a big log with one hand and take a picture with the other.:chainsaw:
 
Tree Sling'r said:
Big dogs are good so that you can buck a big log with one hand and take a picture with the other.:chainsaw:


Tree Sling'r said:
Or leave you saw in a 2800bf cut while you go potty in the brush.:chainsaw:

Ya know, I'm sure that's what the dog engineers at Stihl were thinking when they designed them. :laugh:

Look for my big dog thead later tonight or tomorrow morning....

Jeff
 
Jeff, what type of chaps are you wearing? Looking to pick up a new pair, and those look pretty comfy.
 
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