Disfunctional Saw (operator?)

Chinooker · Jul 26, 2007

Here is a cut and paste from a questions I posted in another OLD thread http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=23061&page=5 . Any help is appreciated. When you move as often as I have, 9 times in 17 years, it is hard to establish a relationship with anybody local. Hoping to get this saw running so that I can do some trail maintenance on my hunting property before the season gets too close.

Looking for a little help with this saw.
I am an active duty Army type and have, shall we saw, not been around home for a while. Over a year ago this saw worked well for me but in preparation for my departure forgot to properly store - not a high priority. So after sitting for 18 months I can not get it to start (no surprise) and the local pro-saw shop says not worth the money to fix. Short of a complete carb tear-down any tips for getting it running again?

New gas/oil
New spark plug
Cleaned air filter

Not sure if I am getting a spark or not - no sound of ignition.

JAS

Hard Knocks · Jul 26, 2007

There are a few things that you can do to diagnose the problem.

1. To find out if you have spark you can remove the spark plug and touch the metal threads to any convenient metal part of the saw with the boot hooked up. With the kill switch in the on position pull the recoil a few times and watch the tip of the plug for spark.

2. If you have spark try to put a few drops (or a spray from a sprayer bottle)of fresh mixed gas into the sparkpulug hole and install the spark plug. Pull the saw over a few times with the kill switch on, choke open, and throttle lock on. The saw should sputter and stall if it has good spark and enough compression to fire.

3. If the saw runs for a second on the fuel that you put into the cylinder than you know that you have got a fuel problem. Your next step would be to inspect the fuel filter inside the tank, the fuel line to make sure that it is not cracked or gone soft and gummy, and the carburetor. You may have to remove and disassemble the carburetor to clean old fuel residue from the passages with carburetor cleaner and soak the diaphragms in fresh mix or better yet replace them.

Try these things and let us know how you make out!

taplinhill · Jul 26, 2007

Pull the spark plug out and set it on top of the cylinder with the boot attached. Give it a couple of pulls and look for spark. This is as good a place to start as any.

taplinhill · Jul 26, 2007

I guess I was a little late. :dizzy:

formersawrep · Jul 26, 2007

It is most likely a fuel (old fuel) issue. Get a squirt can and fill it with 2 cycle mix. Squirt this into the carb. If the saw runs, keep squirting it in. MANY times this will suck the old fuel out of the saw and fix the problem.

Log Splitter · Jul 26, 2007

You've already got some good advice. If it's the carb, BTW, it is not hard to install a carb kit.

The real reason for my post was to say THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE!

rreidnauer · Jul 26, 2007

Yup, Hard Knocks has it wrapped up good.

I just wanted to add it's refreshing that you didn't paint the saw as being a POS, just because it didn't start. It's nice to see someone not blaming the equipment for a change. You get some rep for that!

Chinooker · Jul 26, 2007

rreidnauer said:
Yup, Hard Knocks has it wrapped up good.

I just wanted to add it's refreshing that you didn't paint the saw as being a POS, just because it didn't start. It's nice to see someone not blaming the equipment for a change. You get some rep for that!

I know it is not the saw - my failure to put it away properly.

Do not think I am getting spark. Pulled the plug and did not see spark.

Next step?
Anybody know if there is a service manual available for these saws?

Thanks for the help.

JAS

taplinhill · Jul 26, 2007

You might try adjusting the air gap for your coil. If you have a weak coil going below the recommended gap might get it to fire.

Chinooker · Jul 26, 2007

Gapped .025 per owners manual.
Found loose wire in handle - fixed
Got spark
Drained fuel (new)
Purged fuel lines
Cleaned spark arrester (not related but might as well)
New fuel in tank and in spark plug whole

And - NOTHING

Fuel is flowing - coming out of the muffle after starting attempts.

Thoughts?
Thanks
JAS

Hard Knocks · Jul 26, 2007

1. Make sure that you are testing with a known working sparkplug.
2. Make sure that the clip inside the boot is properly connected to the lead.
3. Make sure that you hold the plug tightly to the cylinder when grounding.
4. You can eliminate the kill switch and wire by removing the recoil cover and unplugging the single connector from the ignition coil and re-testing.

If all of this fails than you likely have got a bad module.

Hard Knocks · Jul 26, 2007

Chinooker said:
Gapped .025 per owners manual.
Found loose wire in handle - fixed
Got spark
Drained fuel (new)
Purged fuel lines
Cleaned spark arrester (not related but might as well)
New fuel in tank and in spark plug whole

And - NOTHING

Fuel is flowing - coming out of the muffle after starting attempts.

Thoughts?
Thanks
JAS

Congratulations on finding the loose wire! Now it sounds like you have a flooded saw if fuel is coming out of the muffler.

You need to remove the spark plug, and pull the saw over a few dozen times to clear the excess fuel from the engine. Next dry the plug and install. Hold the throttle wide open with no choke and pull.

You may have to remove and dry the plug a few times!

Chinooker · Jul 26, 2007

Hard Knocks said:
Congratulations on finding the loose wire! Now it sounds like you have a flooded saw if fuel is coming out of the muffler.

You need to remove the spark plug, and pull the saw over a few dozen times to clear the excess fuel from the engine. Next dry the plug and install. Hold the throttle wide open with no choke and pull.

You may have to remove and dry the plug a few times!

Did this exactly.
Full throttle no choke three pulls and :chainsawguy:

Thanks Hard Knocks, I have never tried or even heard of - full throttle no choke. ME = :newbie:

Now time to clean the bar oil resevoir - does not appear to oil.

JAS

ropensaddle · Jul 26, 2007

Yes pull plug and turn upside down while pulling to get flooded
fuel out of crank case then put a good plug and don't choke
pull a few times wide open should start!

ropensaddle · Jul 26, 2007

Chinooker said:
Did this exactly.
Full throttle no choke three pulls and :chainsawguy:

Thanks Hard Knocks, I have never tried or even heard of - full throttle no choke. ME = :newbie:

Now time to clean the bar oil resevoir - does not appear to oil.

JAS

make sure your oil grooves in bar aren't stopped up
the holes too run a putty knife down the groove until all the crud is
out.

Hard Knocks · Jul 26, 2007

Once you have cleaned out the oil tank and internal filter you can check the output. Just remove the bar and chain and let the saw idle while watching the oil hole for flow. I am pretty sure that the oiler on those saws is run off of the crankshaft and does not need the clutch engaged to oil. If you have got good oil flow than you just need to clean the bar like ropensaddle explained and you should be good to go. Don't forget to start out with a good sharp chain before you put it to work!

ChuckinOhio · Jul 27, 2007

You fellas are the tops man, think of the dough that he just saved!!Everyone who posted and helped that fella out are what makes this site great.

Chuck

Chinooker · Jul 28, 2007

ChuckinOhio said:
You fellas are the tops man, think of the dough that he just saved!!Everyone who posted and helped that fella out are what makes this site great.

Chuck

Chuck - You are absolutely correct. Thanks to all. Since I did not need to pay for service, the local shop would not provide, I am going to splurge on a new chain.
Recommendations for a new chain? I have read Baileys' and Oregon's chain FAQs. The VAST majority of use will be clearing dead fall on my property and occasional firewood. I won't be dropping any standing trees - leave that to the pros (though I would like to learn if someone wants to give few lessons I have the trees to practice on :jester: )

Is there any reason for a new bar (are there significant differences)?

Thanks
JAS

sperho · Jul 28, 2007

Chinooker said:
The VAST majority of use will be clearing dead fall on my property and occasional firewood. I won't be dropping any standing trees

For that application, I'd go with a semi-chisel chain; it'll stay reasonably sharp longer while cutting wood that's already on the ground.

Highside · Jul 28, 2007

crank the saw up with the bar off it and check to see if oil is flowing out of the hole...prob wouldn't hurt to flush the oil tank out with a bit of gas a couple of times

Disfunctional Saw (operator?)

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