024 / 026 Fuel and Impulse Hoses

[nedsim]

Found a leak in the impulse hose in my 024 and have a couple questions before I order new impulse and fuel hoses. I also have an 026 that's a couple years younger. I'll replace its hoses while I'm at it. The parts are the same for both saws.

There are 2 styles of fuel hose -- one straight and one that's loopy. Is there any advantage to the later loopy hose? Both the 024 and 026 came with the straight hose. If there is an advantage to the loopy hose, will it replace the straight hose without modifying the saw?

Are Stihl OEM pickup filters worth the extra cost over generic filters?

Both saws are original except for external maintenance stuff. Anything else I should be looking at or replacing while I'm at it? The AV buffers all seem fine.

Thanks.

 

[irhunter]

I generally convert to the newer style gas line on the 026. Not that it makes much of a difference; however, I find swapping fuel filters to be easier with the new-style hose, as the in-tank length is longer.

You do need to enlarge the hole in the tank to take the new style hose.

I may be changing my fuel filters less frequently than some...but, I buy OEM filters. I have never had a filter clog up or fail.

Running saws of this age, one needs to be alert for signs of an air leak from the crank seals. Ignoring a lean condition, for any length of time, will melt your piston. The other approach: change out the seals.

Roy

 

[Mad Professor]

I think on the other thread you P/V tested the 024 to find the impluse hose leak. Won't hurt to check the 026.

Seals and intake boots are also getting old. Look over the boots for signs of any cracks. Also check the AV buffers.

 

[nedsim]

I generally convert to the newer style gas line on the 026. Not that it makes much of a difference; however, I find swapping fuel filters to be easier with the new-style hose, as the in-tank length is longer.

You do need to enlarge the hole in the tank to take the new style hose.

I may be changing my fuel filters less frequently than some...but, I buy OEM filters. I have never had a filter clog up or fail.

Running saws of this age, one needs to be alert for signs of an air leak from the crank seals. Ignoring a lean condition, for any length of time, will melt your piston. The other approach: change out the seals.

Roy

It doesn't appear to be a straight shot to drill out the tank hole, so I think I'll stick with the straight hose. And the OEM filters.

I'm on the fence re the seals -- neither of the saws has a lot of running time, but, as you say, the seals are not getting any better with age. I'll probably just pay close attention to the way they're acting for now.

Thanks.

 

[nedsim]

I think on the other thread you P/V tested the 024 to find the impluse hose leak. Won't hurt to check the 026.

Seals and intake boots are also getting old. Look over the boots for signs of any cracks. Also check the AV buffers.

Buffers and intake boots seem OK, but I'll do my best to pay attention for symptoms of leaks. I bought the 026 as a non-runner not too long ago and did the PV thing then, but will certainly check again after replacing the hoses.

 

[Mad Professor]

Buffers and intake boots seem OK, but I'll do my best to pay attention for symptoms of leaks. I bought the 026 as a non-runner not too long ago and did the PV thing then, but will certainly check again after replacing the hoses.

I have two 026 in the repair pipeline.

One I got free when I bought a 056M saw, as a parts lot with it. Got straight gassed but nice complete saw.

The other is a farm auction saw for $100. It needs a cleanup and testing, but 150psi comp.

I have a spare NOS cylinder and 2 pistons. But also a running 026 I use.

 

[av8or3]

It’s almost a straight shot if you remove the little metal tab that is directly above the hole. I did one last night, working up slowly to get the correct hole size. Piece of cake.

 

[stihltech]

Get the straight hose. When installing, lube the molded on grommet, install fuel filter on line and feed line through hole in tank from the inside. Pull grommet into hole.

 

[nedsim]

I have two 026 in the repair pipeline.

One I got free when I bought a 056M saw, as a parts lot with it. Got straight gassed but nice complete saw.

The other is a farm auction saw for $100. It needs a cleanup and testing, but 150psi comp.

I have a spare NOS cylinder and 2 pistons. But also a running 026 I use.

The 024 is the only new saw I've owned, bought when we were clearing for our house on the recommendation of a guy who sold Stihl & Husky and repaired auto radiators out of a one-man shop. Maybe the best advice I've ever received from a salesman.

I bought the 026 for $100 a few years ago from a guy who didn't use it much and had had fuel problems. He put a Chinese carb in it that I got working, but it wanted constant fiddling. Replaced it with a Walbro and it's been dead reliable since. The fact that it shares most parts with the 024 is a big bonus.

 

[nedsim]

It’s almost a straight shot if you remove the little metal tab that is directly above the hole. I did one last night, working up slowly to get the correct hole size. Piece of cake.

No metal tab on my 024, at least not at the "above" where I looked. I haven't taken the 026 apart so can't tell how different it is. The drill would be off about 15 degrees on the 024, which, as a practical matter, is probably not enough to make the grommet unhappy.

 

[nedsim]

Get the straight hose. When installing, lube the molded on grommet, install fuel filter on line and feed line through hole in tank from the inside. Pull grommet into hole.

Thanks, that's more or less what I figured, good to have the benefit of the experience of someone who's done it and not just my imagination.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Buffers and intake boots seem OK, but I'll do my best to pay attention for symptoms of leaks. I bought the 026 as a non-runner not too long ago and did the PV thing then, but will certainly check again after replacing the hoses.

Flywheel seals on those models are tiny and very difficult to remove without the oem tool, from memory there is little room for screws. If they’re holding vacuum it may be better to leave them.

 

[sawmill sam]

Flywheel seals on those models are tiny and very difficult to remove without the oem tool, from memory there is little room for screws. If they’re holding vacuum it may be better to leave them.

Speaking of 024 seals, I can't remove the flywheel seal on mine. Thanks for the tip on the oem tool.

 

[Mad Professor]

Speaking of 024 seals, I can't remove the flywheel seal on mine. Thanks for the tip on the oem tool.

The OEM tool from $tihl will set you back 1/2 weeks pay.

Chinese are making copies.

 

[cookies]

Those small style crank seals rarely go bad unless over heated or run without oil. Oem manufactured carbs are the only way to go. Over the last year I have seen a 80% failure rate out of the box on chinese carbs, with the 20% working after putting a new diaphragm kit in them. I no longer order the chicom carbs unless there are no other choices, too many headaches and at best their diaphragms last 2 years.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

The OEM tool from $tihl will set you back 1/2 weeks pay.

Chinese are making copies.

Yeah they’re expensive. @trains has the copy, hopefully he can chyme in with his experience.

 

[2StrokeFondler]

Chinese are making copies.

*junk copies

 

[stihltech]

I will bet money the seal under the flywheel is leaking vacuum. Replace those 10 to 1.
Yes, tough to remove without the tool, but it can be done.

A tip from Stihl, tap the seal inward SLIGHTLY to break the outer metal to case seal. Now get a small screwdriver, round the edges off, smooth it, work it under the seal, and pop it out. Yes, be careful doing it so you don't scratch the crank or bore. That is the reason for smoothing it.

Here they come.....

 

[av8or3]

I was gonna suggest the same thing. You cannot just pull em out. You must tap them in very slightly on one side, just as said above to break the seal to the case. Then you can do as he said or use the OEM tool to pull it.

 

[av8or3]

I will also say that I was initially disappointed in the performance of the OEM tool set, until I became aware of the importance of “breaking” the seal to the case before trying to pull the seal out. Since then it’s been very rewarding using that tool set. It has feet that will fit almost anything. It was expensive when I bought it, but it gets used alot.