036 rebuild

[komatsuvarna]

Might look to see what kind of clips is in the piston. Stihl doesn't use the kind with ears on them....
Just looking for clues....

 

[komatsuvarna]

I believe it is OEM.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/stihl-036-0...884?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a343d8ac4

 

[Wagnerwerks]

That's a factory cylinder. Stihl cylinders are often marked stihl and that looks right on. It should clean up too.

 

[Big_Wood]

The 036 i recently redid the top end on didn't say mahle on the side of the cylinder and it was original to the saw. She's oem. Congrats my cylinder was way worse then yours and it cleaned up blowing original compression now so yours should too.

 

[AKDoug]

That cylinder does look like a replacement Stihl cylinder. I bet it wasn't the first time this saw bit the dust. Be sure to vacuum/pressure check everything when you're done with this rebuild to make sure there isn't some underlying condition that killed this saw.

 

[NHRA1877]

Thanks so much guys! So I pulled the piston off just to try and further examine and try to see if anything is AM on the cyl do these pictures of the piston and some numbers tell us anything?

 

[Wagnerwerks]

It's just my opinion, but from the pics, it all looks stock and has the right amount of wear to be all original. Get yourself a meteor piston kit and replace all the rubber except maybe the intake if it checks out as perfect. There's just no reason not to give it a full rebuild and make it right. You're going to keep it right? I run all year 2000 or earlier saws and seals are becoming a need to replace item. I'm going through my runners and changing them just for maintenance. Good insurance. If the bearings are nice and smooth and tight, I may let them slide.


Ps, the stihl casting cylinders that I have seen are not as refined as the Mahles giving them the am look you see. I'm not a stihl guy, I just have parted out a pile of them.

 

[NHRA1877]

Yes I will be keeping this saw. I have the OEM fuel and impulse line on order off eBay and the dealer is ordering the full gasket kit with new seals so all the rubber and seals will be new and there is a new meteor piston on its way. I want to make sure this saw lasts for years to come. Long as the cyl cleans up I should be ok, I am going to take the chance on the bearings, I hope it doesn't come back to bite me later on but I want to rebuild this saw as cheap as I can while doing it right

 

[NHRA1877]

Yes I will be keeping this saw. I have the OEM fuel and impulse line on order off eBay and the dealer is ordering the full gasket kit with new seals so all the rubber and seals will be new and there is a new meteor piston on its way. I want to make sure this saw lasts for years to come. Long as the cyl cleans up I should be ok, I am going to take the chance on the bearings, I hope it doesn't come back to bite me later on but I want to rebuild this saw as cheap as I can while doing it right

Also the M.D. On the handle says 9903 I'm assuming that's manufacture day of 9-9-2003?

 

[AKDoug]

An 036 would have been made well before '03.

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Sweet! Looks to be an OEM replacement top end?? As others have said, find out what toasted it in the first place.

 

[sefh3]

Get yourself some compressed air. Clean all the saw dust off around the crank area. Stick a rag in there if you don't plan on splitting the case. Make sure you take the old seals out carefully and don't damage the flywheel side casing. Those seals are tiny and a pain. Once you get it running, you'll enjoy it. They handle a 20" just fine.

 

[NHRA1877]

Thanks, that's the plan for tonight is to clean the saw up and try working the cyl with acid, I'm going to have the dealer install the seals so I don't take the chance of messing anything up

 

[NHRA1877]

Hey guys sorry for making this thread so picture heavy, just trying to learn and pictures tell a better story than I do. So I was reading a post on here about acid cleaning cyl.'s and Mastermind had mentioned how he no longer uses acid and built sanding drums for a drill, so I decided to try by hand first to see the results.

I started with 180 and things began to smooth up really well, after about 15 minutes of sanding I had most of the cyl to where I couldn't catch the old scores with a finger nail but could feel very slight ones if I pushed hard with my fingertip, there is only one long score that seems like a deep scratch. Tell me what you guys think about this so far

 

[komatsuvarna]

I'd rub on it a little more in those spots and run it!
You done good grasshopper.

 

[NHRA1877]

Ok rubbed it a little more with 180, hit it with 320 then with red scotchbrite. The cyl feels fine, only have that one long scratch you can see in the cyl. Personally I think it should be fine, it's so small that if it looses a tiny bit of conpression I don't think it will even be measurable..... But I could be wrong.

 

[NHRA1877]

Also, how the heck do you remove the carb from this saw?! I was able to get it off but had to pry the black part of the handle off, couldn't get it all the way off without fear of breaking it but the rod came off the trigger. What am I doing wrong?

 

[Whiskers]

There's a screw under the back of the handle and the black part comes off and you can remove throttle rod.

Sent from my ADR6410LVW using Tapatalk

 

[Whiskers]

It's also much easier to put the handle parts back together in the choke position with the trigger lock on. It prevent the throttle rod from popping off when putting the black cover on.

 

[tallfarmboy]

Does anyone else wish that screw that holds the trigger cover on was on the TOP side of the saw?