036 rebuild
- Thread starter NHRA1877
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komatsuvarna
Arboristsite MVP
That looks to be a pretty clean ole saw.....
Thanks! Ok so I'm just waiting on the gasket kit from the dealer which should be here Monday and I will start putting the case back together, Is there a way to test the old oil pump or should I just replace that oil line and use the old one?
So everything needed to put the case back together should be here today. I have the flywheel side bearing in the freezer and it will be installed after work, for the clutch side bearing do I just install it so its flush with the inside of the case?
Then after they are in ill install the dowel pins half way between the two cases, freeze the crank and tap the case halfs together until I can catch the bolts. At that point tighten 1/4 turn on each bolt until they are tight as I can get them by hand. Does that sound correct?
Then after they are in ill install the dowel pins half way between the two cases, freeze the crank and tap the case halfs together until I can catch the bolts. At that point tighten 1/4 turn on each bolt until they are tight as I can get them by hand. Does that sound correct?
I use a set of longer crankcase bolts to start the pull if I have too. For a couple bucks It's easier on the saw.
Temporarily re-install the oil pump and use it as the "stop" and you'll be fine.
Any hardware store should have longer M5's. They obviously don't need to be torx head, just long enough to draw the halves together close enough for the regular bolts to start threading.
komatsuvarna
Arboristsite MVP
Yup, put the oil pump in before the clutch side bearing, they kinda set together. On the dowels, I left them in the one I just done. You'll want the dowels in to hold the gasket in place when you start putting the case halves together, plus the dowels are there to line everything up right....or thats the way I do them. Also, I like to heat the case halves. You can put them in an oven at about 250* and the bearings will fall right into place. Freezing the bearings and crank does help some, but room temperature to 250* is a lot better than room temperature to ~15*. Just my experience.
komatsuvarna
Arboristsite MVP
After you get it together, and before you put the seals in, let the case cool off. The crank is gonna be tight to spin. Take a hammer and give the crank ends a good square wack to relieve the tension from assembly and center the crank and you'll be good to go with the rest of the build.
I use a composite material deadblow to seat the crank and it works well. I wouldn't use a hammer for the task without incorporating a block o' wood to absorb some of the impact. I also put the nut on the flywheel side to protect the threads.
I freeze the bearings and heat the case halves. Works like a charm. I know folks who just use the heat the bearings absorb after installation to ease installing the crank without needing the extra-long bolts, too. Just press the halves together over the crank by hand. Haven't done it that way myself, but will give it a shot on my next one. Mastermind did a recent thread on bearing installation and uses that technique. If it's good enough for him...
I freeze the bearings and heat the case halves. Works like a charm. I know folks who just use the heat the bearings absorb after installation to ease installing the crank without needing the extra-long bolts, too. Just press the halves together over the crank by hand. Haven't done it that way myself, but will give it a shot on my next one. Mastermind did a recent thread on bearing installation and uses that technique. If it's good enough for him...
komatsuvarna
Arboristsite MVP
I guess I shoulda said I use a soft brass hammer.
I guess I shoulda said I use a soft brass hammer.
There ya go. My deadblow is one of those heavy, dense, rubber ones.
Sometimes I don't need the longer bolts and I have never needed bolts more than one size longer, but I have them just in case.
I use a brass drift and a ball peen hammer to center the crank. Usually I can see whitch side of the crank lobes are tight. So I know whitch side to tap. Use a wood block if that's all you have.
I use a brass drift and a ball peen hammer to center the crank. Usually I can see whitch side of the crank lobes are tight. So I know whitch side to tap. Use a wood block if that's all you have.
Just installed the bearing in the flywheel side, froze the bearing and heated the case hot to the touch with a propane torch, the bearing needed to be hit in with a socket and a hammer but it didn't need too much help. The bearing doesn't feel as smooth as before I installed it but I'm hoping may just still have some contraction from hot to cold?
Also, I can't find any info on testing oil pumps so I'm thinking of putting a new one in when I do the new oil outlet line, are the aftermarket ones off eBay ok? An OEM is 75$!!
Also, I can't find any info on testing oil pumps so I'm thinking of putting a new one in when I do the new oil outlet line, are the aftermarket ones off eBay ok? An OEM is 75$!!
Propane torch is the wrong way to heat the case. Toaster oven or heat gun is the way to go. Hope ya didn't hose up the bearing seat pounding in the bearing.
And if the gear on the oil pump spins freely, the shaft is straight, and the housing itself isn't cracked, the pump is probably fine. Getting the oil line installed is where it gets fun.
I was nervous of the coil and the brake handle that are still attached getting heated up too much that's why I used the torch, didn't get it too hot but hot to touch.
I installed the clutch side bearing now, the old one was flush with the inside of the case, this one I put the oil pump in and tapped the bearing as far as it would go with the oil pump in place and the bearing is not flush with the case. Is this ok?
I installed the clutch side bearing now, the old one was flush with the inside of the case, this one I put the oil pump in and tapped the bearing as far as it would go with the oil pump in place and the bearing is not flush with the case. Is this ok?
komatsuvarna
Arboristsite MVP
No. You got the wrong bearing if that one is all the way in. Did you compare it to the old one to see if it was the same size?
komatsuvarna
Arboristsite MVP
Looks like that bearing is missing the machined edge where the oil pump and bearing set together.
..and when you get the right bearing you'll have to leave the oil pump on the case when you start putting the halves together or the bearing will probably just slide out toward the oil pump cavity....
..and when you get the right bearing you'll have to leave the oil pump on the case when you start putting the halves together or the bearing will probably just slide out toward the oil pump cavity....
Well lesson learned..... The bearing was an eBay bearing listed under the correct part number as OEM new, I took it for granted and just pressed it in, turns out its NOT the correct bearing.
This is a learning process for me with the chainsaws, I was nervous about going aftermarket with the bearings but should have just ordered the bearing kit from weedeaterman and been ahead of the game.
Would you guys just order a new oem from the dealer at this point or order aftermarket from weedeaterman?
This is a learning process for me with the chainsaws, I was nervous about going aftermarket with the bearings but should have just ordered the bearing kit from weedeaterman and been ahead of the game.
Would you guys just order a new oem from the dealer at this point or order aftermarket from weedeaterman?
