036 rebuild

[NHRA1877]

Thanks guys, found the screw and the handle came right off!!

So I should be ok with that cyl? Don't know how long weedeaterman takes to ship to NJ but would like to have the topend on this weekend and get her running

 

[NHRA1877]

Ok so my local stihl dealer insists that the 1125 007 1050 does not come with crank seals. All the ones I have seen online have come with them, are they wrong or am I looking at something wrong?

 

[AKDoug]

I'm backing off my previous comments on the base gasket. I'm pulling apart an 026 from the same generation that has never been apart and had the same type of gasket.

 

[NHRA1877]

Ok guys so I have decided to just do this thing right and split the case and do the crank bearings, I want this saw to go together and not have to worry about anything I should have done while it was apart.

I have found a great deal of info about installing the bearings with heat and a freezer but not much about splitting the case. Anyone have any tips and tricks?

I called the dealer just to see what they would charge to do the bearings and they told me if I bring just the case and supply the bearings it will be aprox 150 to change the bearings!!!

Also with my 290 I was able to find the info for the 6203 CS bearings that I sourced locally for 3$ each, does anyone know a part number that I can source bearings for the 036 locally? Thanks a ton!!!

One last question, do I use the dirko sealant on the base and cyl gaskets or install them dry?

Thanks alot guys I have been getting some really great info from this site!!!

 

[komatsuvarna]

Good idea. I always do bearings on a toasted saw. Cheep insurance and if it's been straight gassed or ran lean there probably in rough condition anyways.

150.00 is a rip off for bearing labor. If you have the right tools, cleaning the cases up for reassembly is the hardest part!

I install gaskets dry, but I'm sure a thin layer of sealant won't hurt.

I think mastermind has some pictures and maybe even a video of bottom end assembly. It's easy after ya done a couple and kinda know what to expect.

 

[big t double]

Ok so my local stihl dealer insists that the 1125 007 1050 does not come with crank seals. All the ones I have seen online have come with them, are they wrong or am I looking at something wrong?

tell your dealer to look up that part number under the crankcase heading on the ipl...that kit does include the seals.

 

[NHRA1877]

Thanks guys, I'm going to attempt to split the case tomorrow after work, hoping a few screwdrivers and a rubber mallet will do the trick.

And members in the NJ or eastern PA with a case splitter that wouldn't mind lending a hand?

Also, weedeaterman has a bearing kit on their site for 40$, they are after market, has anyone used aftermarket bearings in these saws with good luck? If not I'm going to buy OEM off eBay for 30$ for the clutch side and try to source the flywheel side locally

 

[Whiskers]

What's wrong with the bearings that are in the saw? Are you just changing them for precautionary reasons? Be careful you don't do more damage than good to the case with the screwdrivers. If it was my saw and the bearings felt smooth with no play, I'd just rinse the case out with some mix and call it a day, but maybe that's just me.

 

[NHRA1877]

The bearings feel ok, I'm just figuring since I'm doing a new piston seals and all new rubber that I may as well split the case and clean/change bearings and not have to worry if the bearings are going to go In another 6 months and have to strip the saw down again

 

[komatsuvarna]

Thanks guys, I'm going to attempt to split the case tomorrow after work, hoping a few screwdrivers and a rubber mallet will do the trick.

And members in the NJ or eastern PA with a case splitter that wouldn't mind lending a hand?

Also, weedeaterman has a bearing kit on their site for 40$, they are after market, has anyone used aftermarket bearings in these saws with good luck? If not I'm going to buy OEM off eBay for 30$ for the clutch side and try to source the flywheel side locally

I doubt a rubber mallet will do the trick, and be best to leave the screwdrivers in the tool box. You'll mess up the soft magnesium case if you start prying it apart with screwdrivers.....

 

[tallfarmboy]

Screwdrivers on a case = BAD IDEA.

 

[komatsuvarna]

The bearings feel ok, I'm just figuring since I'm doing a new piston seals and all new rubber that I may as well split the case and clean/change bearings and not have to worry if the bearings are going to go In another 6 months and have to strip the saw down again

If the bottom end doesn't have contaminants in it and the bearing fell smooth you might be ok. If they feel gritty or have rough spots in them they need changed.

 

[NHRA1877]

I found this image while trying to search for a puller online (which I could not find) would something like this work? I can easily do this

 

[atpchas]

I found this image while trying to search for a puller online (which I could not find) would something like this work? I can easily do this

That will work just fine. It looks just like the one I used for the first dozen or so cases I split until I broke down and bought one of the Husky splitters (like the one watsonr had a special on a while back). If you're convinced the bearings need replacing, that will do the trick.

 

[NHRA1877]

Ok guys, thanks to all your help, with a special thanks to komatsuvarna, I have gotten the case apart!

At first I only found 4 bolts and the 2 dowel pins, started pulling and bent the puller, komatsuvarna let me know there were 5, the one bolt hole was filled with saw dust.

Next step, what's the best way to get the bearing out of the case and crank out of the bearing/case

Also, I researched a little and tried to heat the hard oil line and well.... Melted it. I have heard how much of a pain this is, any tips tricks or part numbers? And should I just get a new oem oil pump or is there a way to test it to see if it works? Thanks so much guys and sorry for all the questions. I'm adding a bunch of photos because it was hard for me to find photos in most of the old posts so maybe someone could use these in the future.

 

[sefh3]

You can use aftermarket bearings on these saws or go directly to Stihl. I have a set of aftermarket in my 036 and 026 and have not had a problem. I have a half dozen tanks on both saws. They are expensive from Stihl due to the oil pump housing going around the bearing.

 

[NHRA1877]

I ordered a new OEM clutch side bearing off eBay, was hoping once I got the flywheel side out I can source it locally

 

[glock37]

I wouldn't worry about getting a case splitter
After you remove all screws and tapped the locating pins back
Remove the seals then use a heat gun until the oil starts to smoke gentle tap the crank while holding the case half with a glove its hot use a soft faced hammer
repeat for other side
to remove bearings from crank get a bearing puller set form HF heat bearing and install puller bearing comes right off
Check out this thread to install bearings
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/case-bearing-installation.246892/

hope this helps

Mike

 

[NHRA1877]

I saw somewhere the bearing on the flywheel side may be a 6202 bearing, can anyone confirm this?

 

[komatsuvarna]

I saw somewhere the bearing on the flywheel side may be a 6202 bearing, can anyone confirm this?

It is. 6202C3