044 rebuild

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Ok so this is as far as I got today, the clutch and fuel line should be here tomorrow. And I will have most of it together, still waiting on a recoil to arrive and than I need to figure out if there is a kit like the 1125-007-1041 that I bought for my 036 kit that came with the clutch drum, new bearing, washer and clip.









 
It was supposed to be locktite 518, I wanted to use that as I heard any that squishes into the crank case will get washed away on the first tank of fuel. Sadly not a single store around me had any in stock and I had a tube of dirko so I just used that. It's just added insurance in my eyes to make sure there's no leaks.
 
It was supposed to be locktite 518, I wanted to use that as I heard any that squishes into the crank case will get washed away on the first tank of fuel. Sadly not a single store around me had any in stock and I had a tube of dirko so I just used that. It's just added insurance in my eyes to make sure there's no leaks.
I stand corrected.
I don't like the 518 myself.
I prefer the "other" stuff.
 
Is yamabond also acceptable for the case gasket?
 
I'm patiently waiting by the mail box for the fuel line to come. Does anyone have any pictures of how the wires from the coil are run inside the carb enclosure on the 044? I have them so they should be fine but can't for the life of me remember how they run!
 
I can't guarantee that this is the correct positioning as I took mine apart quite a while before putting it back together and couldn't remember either. It looks about right to me given that the wires push behind the little nubs in the case.
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Thank you for the pictures, that's pretty much how I ran them once I figured it out. The fuel line finally came and man was it a pain in the butt to get fully installed. I picked up the Hd2 air filter and got the intake side of the saw all buttoned up. Still waiting on the recoil to come and the flywheel side will be ready to go and I can finally start the saw that I have named "ugly Betty", I sandblasted and painted the back side of the filter and will be installing the regular single port cover to get her going until she goes out for porting.

I did install the after market clutch I got and as soon as I put it on a piece off the clutch broke off, I don't know how much this means and I'm sure it's nothing but I think I may get some OEM springs and put the factory clutch back into it.

Here's some pictures of where she's at so far.....I'm a picture whore so here we go




























 
Also what's a good initial carb setting for the first start up? My good friend is a stihl mechanic and is going to help me get the tune correct but I want to start her and check for leaks and such before I take it down to him
 
Also what's a good initial carb setting for the first start up? My good friend is a stihl mechanic and is going to help me get the tune correct but I want to start her and check for leaks and such before I take it down to him


1 turn out on both screws is a good starting point
 
I stand corrected.
I don't like the 518 myself.
I prefer the "other" stuff.
What's the other stuff Jeremy? And why don't you like the Locktite 518? I'm using Hondabond currently and like it a heck of a lot better than the Dirko I started out with.

Dirko dries too fast for my taste and is difficult to spread evenly, the Hondabond spreads evenly, spills wipe up easily and after 12 hours drying time it is tough as nails. I've never used anything on a case gasket or spread on a crankshaft seal except for clamshell's.
 
I use Yamabond. Always had great luck. Same as Hondabond.
I tried 518 on an 038 rebuild.
Somehow managed to get a dab on the skirt of the piston. The next day the piston was adhered to the cylinder. Had to remove jug to clean it and clean up with that stuff is a pain in the azz.
But don't let my bad experience keep you from tryin it

Jeremy
 
No, I'm not afraid to try new sealants, before I bought the Hondabond to replace the Dirko I tried some Permatex Ultra Copper on a straight gassed Briggs snowblower two stroke and it worked alright.

However it's nice not to spend money on new sealants that are difficult to use or problematic. I wonder why Stihl sticks with Dirko when there are so many other sealants around that seem easier to work with. I have seen several Dirko failures in Stihl clamshells. Usually from poor original application though.

I bought a NWP 390 kit awhile back and it was supposed to be sealed and tested. Whatever sealant the Asians used on that engine was trash as it leaked from the start.
 
I decided I don't like the aftermarket clutch and bought new OEM springs for the factory clutch today. Now I just need to instal them and the drum will be going on with a new bearing
 
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