050 051 075 076 Info Thread

[Drptrch]

Picked up a sweet 076 Super from the "other" site. Was advertised as an 075, but it has the oil cap on the side and also has the ears that hold the chain brake handle. Looks like it has the 076 intake as well; need to check that and the carb.

Anyone have any chain brake bits for an 076? Please pm if you do. An 076 Super tag or top cover would be great, too.

Scott

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Pm sent

Erik

 

[bulletpruf]

PM replied to.

Nice saw, Erik, and love the full wrap. On a related note, if anyone has any full wraps that they would sell, please pm me! I need several.

Scott

 

[bulletpruf]

Took a closer look at my new saw (pictured last page) -- has a Tillotson carb and doesn't have the tall intake so it looks like it's a regular 076, not the super.

I ordered a few complete NOS sprocket cover/chain brake assemblies, so this one will have a chain brake. The chain brake on my 076 was missing some bits, so I'll replace that as well. Question on chain brakes -- were these an option on the 076 and 076 super or did they all come with a brake?

Thanks

Scott

 

[Rockfarmer]

To the best of my knowledge the chainbrake was an option ( like ac on the old cars) and you probably ordered it if they didn’t stock it. Some of the tags say 076 electronic and some say 076 electronic quickstop. Congrats on the brake that’s a sweet deal! To me an 076 has the newer style tank, recoil and flywheel but they made so many models and changed everything every year that I just really don’t know. Regardless it’s a great looking saw and I hope it serves you well. I have never met any size of log that an 076 couldn’t handle and when I get into the big diam I rip the rounds half way and the bust with a wedge. Cheers! Merry Christmas!! B

 

[Rockfarmer]

Finally got the tree up!!

 

[Learnin 2 Mill]

Hi all,
I'm just looking for a couple of suggestions before I start tearing my saw apart. First, let me say that I'm new to working on small engines, but am trying to learn. Anywho, I have an 051 that the bar oil pretty much just pours out of. I'm not sure if the oiler itself is even working, because before I could get it started there was already a pool of oil under the saw. I have the ipl, but am just looking for a bit of guidance. Thanks in advance for any and all wisdom imparted.

 

[Rockfarmer]

Well the oil has to travel up through the pump and then down to the bar before it comes out of the saw so my first guess is weeping case gasket or small crack in case allowing it to piddle like a chia pet. If you want to check to see if the oil pump is working take off the bar and run the power head. Keep in mind that clutch is spinning and if loose clothing or fingers get close to it you’ll get your arm torn off. Note where the oil comes out of the oiling port above and between the bar studs. It should come out of there flowing in a small stream with saw running.

To identify where the oil is leaking there’s many different ways but I think if you look very close you’ll find the crack or missing gasket. If the saw runs well you have many quick options if you want to get milling today. If you want to split the case that’s going to take some time.
Cheers B

 

[Learnin 2 Mill]

Well the oil has to travel up through the pump and then down to the bar before it comes out of the saw so my first guess is weeping case gasket or small crack in case allowing it to piddle like a chia pet. If you want to check to see if the oil pump is working take off the bar and run the power head. Keep in mind that clutch is spinning and if loose clothing or fingers get close to it you’ll get your arm torn off. Note where the oil comes out of the oiling port above and between the bar studs. It should come out of there flowing in a small stream with saw running.

To identify where the oil is leaking there’s many different ways but I think if you look very close you’ll find the crack or missing gasket. If the saw runs well you have many quick options if you want to get milling today. If you want to split the case that’s going to take some time.
Cheers B

Thanks. I won't even be able to look at my saws today. Me wife is out of town and I'm on full time dad duty. That said, I would like to deal with this problem only once, if possible. I assume that will entail splitting the case, right?

 

[Rockfarmer]

Well without pics and a definite diagnosis we can’t assume the repair If you have the time you can split the case. While your in there do a total rebuild and you’ll have a “like new” saw!!! Good time to paint or powder coat the case as well. Cheers B

 

[Learnin 2 Mill]

Well without pics and a definite diagnosis we can’t assume the repair If you have the time you can split the case. While your in there do a total rebuild and you’ll have a “like new” saw!!! Good time to paint or powder coat the case as well. Cheers B

Understood, I'll hey back after I've had a chance to diagnose. Thanks, Rockfarmer!

 

[Pony]

Afternoon all,
Some beautiful work by you blokes restoring these old saws. I have recently acquired an 076 Super an plan on using it with 404 chain ripping fence posts. I have been using 3/8 for years on 066's, 088's and an 056 Super but thought that the 076 might pull the 404 a bit better and it wouldn't hurt to try something new.
Anyway would anyone have a copy of an owners manual for the 076? I have a service manual, just thought it would be interesting to read through the owners manual.
Thanks

 

[Learnin 2 Mill]

PM sent

 

[Pony]

Learnin 2 Mill was kind enough to help but he only has a service manual and IPL, Does anybody have an owners manual they wouldn't mind sharing?
Thanks

 

[Drptrch]

Afternoon all,
Some beautiful work by you blokes restoring these old saws. I have recently acquired an 076 Super an plan on using it with 404 chain ripping fence posts. I have been using 3/8 for years on 066's, 088's and an 056 Super but thought that the 076 might pull the 404 a bit better and it wouldn't hurt to try something new.
Anyway would anyone have a copy of an owners manual for the 076? I have a service manual, just thought it would be interesting to read through the owners manual.
Thanks

If no one has :

http://r.ebay.com/VJSx0w


Erik

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Saw that yesterday, also. Funny it's not on the Stihl site for download as are many other older owner's manuals. They do say to contact them for manuals not listed online. May be an option if all else fails.

 

[Pony]

Thanks guys,
I have emailed both Stihl Australia and Stihl USA inquiring about the manual but no-one even bothered to reply to me.
The postage on that paper copy is the killer especially for something I don't really need.

On a different note, I am working through my new saw fixing things as I go , I had to buy a clutch and drum as the original had become unscrewed and damaged itself along with the clutch cover.
Fitted the new ones and it fired right up, although I had already pulled the cylinder and got a ton of carbon out of it.
Another side note we don't seem to see the saws run lean and scored that you guys do over there.
I put the saw back together and the ignition switch wasn't working, thought to myself that the one pole switch will need to earth to work. Looked at the IPL and realised the steel strap was missing between the filter base and the fuel tank. Fabbed one up and it works perfectly.
I have noticed a lot of screws missing so have loctited everything back together.
Thanks

 

[Rockfarmer]

That strap is pretty important. As you noted it is the ground for the switch but also braces the whole filter and carb unit. It is very common for the filter base plate to crack from impact or use even with the strap. Some came with a c shaped shim washer that gave some support to the plate helping hold the two studs and spreading the load of the nuts. Clutches can be really tricky. If the spider is only half threaded I like the threads facing out getting a better hold on the threads and just a tiny bit of play when tourqued down. Then I tourque the outer nut to at least 60-70 #’s. Even though it’s reverse thread I’ve had them come off and seen and heard of many coming off. I love the lock tight, in a pinch I use clear nail polish. Carry extra screws with you in the field. Check them everyday. Tourque them as tight as you can, if they strip that’s good, fix them with a keysert and be done with it. Keep those mufflers tight!! Cheers!

 

[rebuildinSawin]

Thanks guys,
I have emailed both Stihl Australia and Stihl USA inquiring about the manual but no-one even bothered to reply to me.
The postage on that paper copy is the killer especially for something I don't really need.

Hey Pony,

I have a copy of the original paper 076 super owners manual in my saw tool box in the shed at the remote property but it will be a few weeks before i'm there again. I think i have a paper copy of the 075 manual too.
If you still need it i can scan it in for you - if you are willing to wait a few weeks.
To be honest there is not really anything of much value in there if i remember correctly, and the info on tuning the carb is incorrect, i think they mixed up the H and L screws LOL.

On the screws note, most of mine for the covers are drilled and retapped to M6x1.0. They don't tend to splooge out as easily as the M5's. The case gets pretty soft over time, especially as i've found the loctite nutlocker can take parts of the threads out with it LOL. I use a torque wrench for the critical ones i'm worried about stripping.
Rockfarmer do you use multiple keyserts to get a deep thread?

Cheers,

 

[Rockfarmer]

No I’ve tried to stack helicoils and permacoils but never could get it to work. As far as stacking the keysert I think that’s a brilliant idea! I know that would work. Trouble is like you said there’s not a lot of meat there and I believe to put in a 5 keysert it has to be tapped to an 8. If the threads are good I use the longest screw I can. I’ll even take a longer one and cut it down so it bites for a good 5/8”. The ground strap and rear tank mounts you can use extra long screws and get a lock nut on behind it. If I have to drill and tap the two front holes I mix up marine job weld and fill the empty holes around the screw hole to help support that thin wall when I drill and tap. As far as the keysert goes though they are strong. You’ll break your Allen, break the screw before they keysert let’s go. As far as locktight I think I mentioned clear fingernail polish. It holds great but doesn’t “weld”, it’s cheap and does the job. Sometimes I’ll switch the screws to 5 torx Head. They can be really cranked more than an Allen especially if you put pliers or a wratchet on your driver.

 

[Pony]

Thanks for the offer rebuildinSawin, if it's not too much trouble I wouldn't mind a copy of the manual.
Like I said I don't need it and like you said there's not much useful in it, I just think it'd be cool to have read.
I've got manuals got all my other old saws so this one feels kinda left out.
They're is certainly no rush mate whenever you get around to it.
Whereabouts are you? I'm in southeast qld at the moment.