050 051 075 076 Info Thread

[rebuildinSawin]

Thanks for the offer rebuildinSawin, if it's not too much trouble I wouldn't mind a copy of the manual.
Like I said I don't need it and like you said there's not much useful in it, I just think it'd be cool to have read.
I've got manuals got all my other old saws so this one feels kinda left out.
They're is certainly no rush mate whenever you get around to it.
Whereabouts are you? I'm in southeast qld at the moment.

No worries I'll try to remember next time I'm away. I'm in Melbourne but saw regularly in North West Vic.
I still haven't had a chance to run the 076 since finding and replacing the bodgy clutch side seals late last year, just been too hot over summer and I have lighter saws to tide me over.

Do you loctite/nail polish the keyserts in rockfarmer? Or is this part of snapping off the bit at the end?

My usual bolts lost are the recoil cover ones. Loctite or whatever is a must. I've also had the clutch start to come off which wasn't fun. Luckily I had the side cover on.

Can't remember if I mentioned it before, never had any issues with the muffler bolts, except for the stress fracture that developed in the muffler near the mounts. Very thankful we have AV!

 

[Rockfarmer]

I have tried putting the keyserts and permacoils in with locktight but it’s an unnecessary hassle. They work great without. The keysert has two pins that you drive down through the new threads you cut in the magnesium and they stay put. On the clutches I like to use the spider with threads all the way through. If it only has the threads half way through I turn it so it’s facing me, the threads, and then use the 3 prong wrench and tighten it till I think the wrench will break. I’m guess it’s around 70-80 lbs. this is bottoming it out on the washer that rests on the shoulder of the crank. The clutch drum at that point must have a bit of play, les than 1/8” , but cannot be bound up tight. If there’s no play something’s not right and it will eventually fail. Same thing with nut, tighten to 70-80 lbs but with my tourque wrench ( obviously both are reverse thread). I have noticed many cranks with a nick or partial cut halfway through the threaded end. The first one I through away and thought someone must have cut it. After seeing it over and over I guess Stihl decided to do it. I don’t know why. The only thing I can think of is it will snap off if you go the wrong direction. I hate to think they would do this intentionally, I just don’t know. I haven’t had complaints since I’ve been doing clutches this way so I’m satisfied it works. I like to run my saws before they get sent out. I wish I had the time and land to mill on. I have two logs in the yard that I will mill and plane sometime soon. I do love those saws!! Cheers!

 

[rebuildinSawin]

Thanks for the offer rebuildinSawin, if it's not too much trouble I wouldn't mind a copy of the manual.
Like I said I don't need it and like you said there's not much useful in it, I just think it'd be cool to have read.
I've got manuals got all my other old saws so this one feels kinda left out.
They're is certainly no rush mate whenever you get around to it.
Whereabouts are you? I'm in southeast qld at the moment.

PM sent bud.
Anyone else who wants it let me know the PDFs are big - if it saves anyone $10 from the ebay manual scumbags then i'd be happy.
It's interesting the manuals are slightly different. The saws are basically the same minor cosmetics by the looks at the time the manuals were printed.

I will note as well my 076 super doesn't have a proper hole for the ignition wire to go through the case, it's more like a filed recess which is interesting.

Cheers.

 

[rebuildinSawin]

I forgot to ask guys, i'm rebuilding my carb (again!) because the saw still isn't running great and i hadn't looked at the governor yet... it was all gummed up!

I have the walbro WS-26A and i noticed there is two different gaskets that you can use on the fuel pump side.
Does anyone know if it is the gasket without the hole near a the fuel inlet or the gasket with the hole.
See below photo (left vs right) - hole is in bottom left corner near the flappy bit.



Cheers

 

[sawfun]

My 076 super with 60" bar.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Does anyone know if it is the gasket without the hole near a the fuel inlet or the gasket with the hole.

Both the Walbro site and the illustration in the 076AV IPL for the WS-26-A show the gasket/diaphragm arrangement without the hole.

 

[rebuildinSawin]

Both the Walbro site and the illustration in the 076AV IPL for the WS-26-A show the gasket/diaphragm arrangement without the hole.

Thanks Pogo, i really struggle with the carb illustrations.

Cheers!

 

[rebuildinSawin]

Ah this is starting to get annoying - looks like the carb kit i ordered came with the diaphragm without the hook for the needle lever. And based on the notes in the WS-26 manual i've probably buggered my main jet by blowing down the carb with compressed air. Bah!
Question for all you carb wizzes: If the main jet check valve is buggered, would this only cause idle issues, or could it also cause high speed issues? The saw idles fine.

Looks like all the critical parts for the WS-26-A are NLA and unobtainum, does anyone know the replacement for the WS-26 that is available? I think I read WJ-112 somewhere but can't seem to find it listed anywhere helpful in Oz.... If anyone has a spare WS-26 or NOS main jet floating around, PM me if you are willing to ship to down under.

Cheers,
Bryce

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The height of the nub on the metering diaphragm may take into account the forked lever and still work fine by riding on it like a typical metering setup. I've read about guys grinding away the extended part of the nub for forked needles as a preference to eliminate the possibility of binding. Sounds a little anal to me, but indicates that a non-notched nub of the correct height will still work with the forked needle.

Compressed air should only mess up that check valve if you hit it hard with high pressure. I'll leave it to others for opinions about the effects of a bad main jet check valve.

FWIW, your other carb option is a Tillotson HS-60. Sagenspezi lists a replacement for the Tillotson HS-60 used on the 075/076 if all else fails. (There are other sources as well.) https://shop.saegenspezi.de/carburetor-Tillotson-fits-Stihl-075-076-AV-075AV-076AV

 

[rebuildinSawin]

The height of the nub on the metering diaphragm may take into account the forked lever and still work fine by riding on it like a typical metering setup. I've read about guys grinding away the extended part of the nub for forked needles as a preference to eliminate the possibility of binding. Sounds a little anal to me, but indicates that a non-notched nub of the correct height will still work with the forked needle.

Compressed air should only mess up that check valve if you hit it hard with high pressure. I'll leave it to others for opinions about the effects of a bad main jet check valve.

FWIW, your other carb option is a Tillotson HS-60. Sagenspezi lists a replacement for the Tillotson HS-60 used on the 075/076 if all else fails. (There are other sources as well.) https://shop.saegenspezi.de/carburetor-Tillotson-fits-Stihl-075-076-AV-075AV-076AV

Thanks for the tips Pogo. I'll try testing the Jet with some tubing and see how i get on. I'll try comparing heights to the old diaphragm too.

 

[rebuildinSawin]

Well looks like the jet is ok! At least as far i can see. New O-ring for that and lets cross fingers with the Diaphragm. the old one in there doesn't have the hook either so i can't compare heights. Governor back in and blocked off for now. Now on to tearing into the top end...

Got it all apart last night, cylinder looks good, little bit of transfer but not much and the piston looks pretty good too. No visible machining marks left really, but i guess i can't expect that with the age of the saw. I'll have to get some better pics tonight.

I'll clean up the carbon on the piston and put new rings on and zip it back up. Hopefully then i'll be good to go. Anything else I should look out for while i'm in here?
I don't think i'm quite game (and don't have the parts) to do a full case split.

Cheers

 

[rebuildinSawin]

Here are some pics of the cyl.



Then disaster struck.

I cleaned the carbon deposits off the piston by boiling the piston for half an hour and one of the ring anti-rotation pins fell out! Bloody little !#%!%. Anyway the hole it was in was enlarged by ~0.1-0.15mm so much now that the pin just falls in and out now that the crud is cleaned out.

It looks like the pin has been rocking back and forth enlarging the hole - so the fact I've found this is probably a good thing. I guess it would have grenaded eventually.

I made up a new tiny pin from HSS bar stock and pressed it in after heating the piston up. Then the other anti-rotation pin fell out... !#%#%.
At least this hole wasn't enlarged so i could press this one back in with a little rotation. A light poke/pull shows the pins won't come out but it makes me nervous!
Do the pins normally come loose at high temps inside the cylinder? My pin is a little longer... still has plenty of clearance to the cyl walls.. not sure how much this matters.



New rings on and it's back together. Pressure and Vac test show its all dandy with new gaskets.

Gave it a short run yesterday and it idles like a dream. Default carb adjustments are spot on. Feels nice, haven't done any real cutting with it yet.
Debating if i should delay things and buy an aftermarket piston for $50 and feel a lot better about those pins... thoughts guys? I'd hate for this to grenade on my cyl... but then again i suppose an AM cylinder kit is only about $80...

Cheers,
Bryce

 

[Jacklefty]

Hello all! I’ve got an 050that I rebuilt and am currently trying to got from point to electronic ignition. I’ve got the coil( 11114001303), and the flywheel and the starter rotor(11171950460). The flywheel and ign module mounted up wonderfully but the starter rotor won’t fit on the 050 starter housing/ gas tank. I real the other thread about switching and what to use and i did not see anything about switching the starter housing/gas tank over as well. The starter spring is wron and the way the starter spring mounts up won’t work with my 050 starter housing/gas tank...

I’m tired of throwing money at this thing. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

You'll need the whole starter/tank assembly for converting to electronic ignition due the reasons you've discovered. There is some fairly definitive discussion about it earlier in this thread back around pages 11 ~ 12 or so.

Or..., go back to the points ignition (which is a very solid ignition, btw).

 

[Jacklefty]

You'll need the whole starter/tank assembly for converting to electronic ignition due the reasons you've discovered. There is some fairly definitive discussion about it earlier in this thread back around pages 11 ~ 12 or so.

Or..., go back to the points ignition (which is a very solid ignition, btw).

Hi thanks for getting back to me. I can’t get it to tune correctly with the points. I’ve got no timing marks to set the points to. And it just runs like crap no matter where I’ve got the points set. I’ve got the check valve in the carb blocked off and after that it ran better but still no power. I’m doing a complete rebuild for a customer and this thing has been a nightmare!!!! I’m already committed with the electronic ignition thing I may as well go all the way.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The later recoil assembly is the better pawl design anyway and the housing has a larger fuel tank as well.

Some tech info headed your way in a PM that may prove helpful.

 

[Jacklefty]

The later recoil assembly is the better pawl design anyway and the housing has a larger fuel tank as well.

Some tech info headed your way in a PM that may prove helpful.

So I bought the Stihl 11114001303 ign coil and the flywheel 11114041204 (its got the new style pawl system).From what I can find is that the ign coil I got does not need a trigger module. But from the info you gave me kind sir it says that the flywheel is used on both the doughnut style ign and the external trigger Assy. Am I correct in saying that I have the correct flywheel, or do I need to get another to match the newer ign module?

Thanks again.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Everything I come up with indicates that the flywheel and coil you have are paired correctly. I see in MediaCAT that the newer style trigger unit is listed as being 'for previous versions', but that's not to say that it isn't still also required even with the 1303 ignition module. Someone more familiar with that ignition will need to jump in to provide additional clarification.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

FWIW, I just spoke to one of the only Stihl dealers in my area who actually knows anything and he indicated that the trigger unit is integral to the 1303 coil and the external triggers are now only used on the cut-off saws for rev limiting purposes. The guy has been at this a long time and is usually right when I need to hit him up for advice.

I'd throw together what you have and see what happens.

 

[Jacklefty]

FWIW, I just spoke to one of the only Stihl dealers in my area who actually knows anything and he indicated that the trigger unit is integral to the 1303 coil and the external triggers are now only used on the cut-off saws for rev limiting purposes. The guy has been at this a long time and is usually right when I need to hit him up for advice.

I'd throw together what you have and see what happens.

So I got the 1303 coil, tank and flywheel on today and she is alive!finally! She cuts!

Btw... should I tune to max rpms as per acres or do I go by ear after the conversion?