056mag2 project underway... part one of many

Wesspur
Rugged made
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Lakeside53 said:
Nice work.. :clap: easy (o.k., easier) if it's not paper thin crap cast AL! I can show you worse... every tried to weld mag with alluminum wire? lololol

Did you ever get that thing cutting wood?
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Don't get me wrong,I can't weld dirty aluminum worth a hoot .Steel,cast iron and stainless are another subject though.Lucky for me I've got a buddy who owns a welding shop,darned good man on aluminum and mag. but a lousey electrician.A little horse trading ,ya know.Hmm,which reminds me,I still have to hook up a speed control for him on one of his overhead cranes,oops.

I can do tolerable on clean aluminum .It's just one of those deals that you will never get good at unless you do it often.
 
Lakeside53 said:
Sure would be nice to find a source that wasn't just Stihl... Maybe someone in Europe has place to look?
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Just found a place in Canada that lists Fillister head Torx and advertises it specialises in locating hard to find fasteners:

http://www.oemhardware.ca/oempdf/TORX SCREW SIZES.pdf



Back to welding the top handle - I think I would favour oxy- acetylene and braze with a slightly lower melting point rod. Should still be possible with what you have - if you don't mind a few minutes filing.
 
I'm not sure these are the same fasteners, but I'll check them out tonight when I get back from work. Thanks!


I have some HT2000 Aluminum alloy rod for brazing... Still very tricky on these thin cast sections. Does work real well though on Alumiinum extrusions!

Couldn't be much worse than what happened ;)
 
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Al Smith said:
Don't get me wrong,I can't weld dirty aluminum worth a hoot .Steel,cast iron and stainless are another subject though.Lucky for me I've got a buddy who owns a welding shop,darned good man on aluminum and mag. but a lousey electrician.A little horse trading ,ya know.Hmm,which reminds me,I still have to hook up a speed control for him on one of his overhead cranes,oops.

I can do tolerable on clean aluminum .It's just one of those deals that you will never get good at unless you do it often.
Click to expand...



Yep.. Buddies... Mines not the best welder on Al, but... the price was right :monkey:
 
Lakeside53 said:
I have some HT2000 Aluminum alloy rod for brazing... Still very tricky on these thin cast sections. Does work real well though on Alumiinum extrusions!

Couldn't be much worse than what happened ;)
Click to expand...


Lakeside,

Get out of the wind, you're blowing away your anert gas[argon], tig weld it, but try mag rod. It also has to be super clean. A good tig welder should be able to stack dimes on that handle.:cheers: :popcorn:
 
Dennis Cahoon said:
Lakeside,

Get out of the wind, you're blowing away your anert gas[argon], tig weld it, but try mag rod. It also has to be super clean. A good tig welder should be able to stack dimes on that handle.:cheers: :popcorn:
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That is a fact for any gas enclosed arc,steel,Mag,aluminum Stainless.Another thing I might point out,not be a smart a$$ but just general info.Any time you "Dip" in and out of the gas shield with the filler rod you bring in outside oxegon into the mix.This causes"sugar" in the weld .Many folks try to "walk" the filler rod and raise the tig torch like it was a flame,doesn't work in this case.Similar to gas weld but different.Like I said,a learned art.

My problem is due to the fact the material doesn't change colors much as it reaches fusion so a weld and a burn through are pretty close for me.
 
Thanks guys- good input. I have seem some good "stacked" dimes on these handles, so I know it can be done. I don't have the experience, so now I need to find someone that does.. at a reasonable price.
 
Paints....

O.K.... So the originals are power-coated.. yep, real tough, tricky to color match, can't use epoxy or acrylic fillers for surface defects or epoxy for repairs, but...

I use the Stihl Polyurethane paint for most restorations and touch-ups, but... Real nice finish, immediate drying, moderately tough after a few months (even when baked), but easy to damage if you intend to use the saw before then. Also, until really cured, gas resistance isn't great.


What about auto paints? My truck paint is really tough... and gas resistant. Sure, more prep is more involved, but who care for a "now and then" project saw.

Anyone been down this path??
 
I really don't have any idea of what would be the toughest paint.Some type epoxy I suppose.In my case most of my restorations are painted OSHA safety yellow.I restore them,snap a bunch of pictures then over a period of time ,wear all the paint off again,by use.

Laquer would be much tougher than enamel of course but the laquer thinner would "lift" all the enamel residue left behind. As far as epoxies,the white portion of that Stihl most likely wouldn't be hard to match but the orange may present a challange.
 
I was thinking auto paint as the original Stihl "paint" is power coat and unaffected by just about anything... Would likely need a primer...

What make auto paint so tough?


In "off the shelf" paints I had more trouble finding a decent match for the Stihl gray (it's definitely gray, not white). There are many "oranges" that come close... but Stihl has chaned the actual color quite a bit over the years.


Hey AL - don't you ever sleep?:D
 
I've lifted this from a post on another site

The Stihl RAL-numbers for example:

the old white: RAL 7035
the old red: RAL 3000 "fire red"
orange: RAL 2004
new white: RAL 9010

I've had both grey and orange mixed in autopaint before now. I just took a decent part with me, picked the closest I could find from their colour charts and had it mixed. When I first read the above info I was interested to see how close I'd come with the stuff I'd had mixed. Sure enough my mixed white was RAL 9010.

I don't know if the guy posting this was stating it as correct, or just his opinion of what was closest to Stihl colours.

Either way, I've been happy with the stuff I've had made up. It sprays wells and dries quick. I don't know on the longevity and have noticed it can sometimes chip easy around edges.

RAL codes are international aren't they?
 
Spun bearings.. a "fix"

Needed parts.. Busted down another 056 crankcase today... but it turned out to be an 045... never mind...

Found something interesting. This saw had spun its clutch side bearing and slogged out the case. Pushing the crank out of an 056/045 almost always results in the bearings staying with the crank.

The last guy spot welded the bearing outer race in four spots (two shown), making just enough of a scar to grab the case, and put some type of sealer goop in the case, and pushed it all back together... Yep... the bearing won't spin in the case any more. Looks like it worked for years after wards!


attachment.php


Another way to look at this is - how you you like to get that one for a project saw...???



The project will continue in a few days.. got held up with the top handle problem, but inherited (free) another 056 Super and a bunch of cases... Might even have enough for two saws now.:cheers:


I've also been researching the NOS parts and where to get them.. I did find a BRAND NEW 056Mag2 model plate :), but only one:cry:
 
Lakeside53 said:
Another way to look at this is - how you you like to get that one for a project saw...???
Click to expand...

Ouch.

If the rest of the case is worth while (kinda doubt it though) a decent machinist should be able to bore the case and fit a sleeve to hold the bearing.

My .02 which is free tonight!
 
Not worth it for an 045... 056 and 056S Cases with bad cranks/bearings are easy to find... I have a really nice 056Mag 2 case.. so nice that I might just take the case of my exisiting saw and swap the cranks.. but first it's going to run!


Here's another little problem that very common in 045's and 056's - the case breaks out where the dogs mount because they get the crap beat out of them when the dogs are loose! PITA to fix well.. I spent two hours just studying the problem on an 056S today...hmmm...



attachment.php
 
Lakeside53 said:
Needed parts.. Busted down another 056 crankcase today... but it turned out to be an 045... never mind...

Found something interesting. This saw had spun its clutch side bearing and slogged out the case. Pushing the crank out of an 056/045 almost always results in the bearings staying with the crank.

The last guy spot welded the bearing outer race in four spots (two shown), making just enough of a scar to grab the case, and put some type of sealer goop in the case, and pushed it all back together... Yep... the bearing won't spin in the case any more. Looks like it worked for years after wards!


Sometimes a ya gotta do whats necessarry to get by,,, Ive heard of that type of fix working well in slighly larger piston ported Two stroke Cycle or cart motos,,,,, suppose it should work on A saw ,,,,2
Click to expand...
 
Lot's of pics of tricky repairs to post... soon...

I do have all the tech notes (1983 to 1990) scanned, but they are too big to post, even at reduced quality. If anyone want them, PM me..
 

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