Does Quicksilver make an air-cooled two stroke oil?
2 cycle oil choices
- Thread starter czyhorse
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stihl023/5
Addicted to ArboristSite
That stuff gave me headaches
miller755
ArboristSite Operative
There are three different ones at the walstore, I think one is a outboard oil, one is a multi application oil, I think the one I have is actually a synthetic pwc oil, I actually originally bought it for my oil injected dirt bike, but iirc it meets the jaso spec. And if it doesn't, well, I've run it in probably 15 different two strokes, which seemed to run well with no problems or I'll effects.
miller755
ArboristSite Operative
Just checked, exceeds jaso fd.
yeah burning plastic is what i think or sometimes it smells soapy in a bad way.
I got all this all to use and bought it quite a while back. It was to cheap to pass up and maybe ace hardware has learned its lesson putting the wrong price on red armor.
Quicksilver and Mercury are the exact same oil. Mercury/Mercruiser is supposed to be the dealer only product line. It's packaged as Quicksilver for the non-dealer market.
I’m familiar with the Quicksilver pwc oil. Certified fd right on the back. Seemed to be great oil
LegeaDejului
ArboristSite Lurker
Their Stihl HP Super, which is their mid-tier oil, is rated FD, you really think their premium Ultra wouldn't meet that? They probably didn't care for paying again to rate the Ultra for an extra rating that only means better detergency. I noticed a lot of people don't understand what JASO rating represents.
Quote:
"JASO FA – original spec established regulating lubricity, detergency, initial torque, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking.
JASO FB – improved requirements over FA with regard to lubricity, detergency, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking.
JASO FC – lubricity and initial torque requirements same as FB, however far higher requirements over FB with regard to detergency, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking.
JASO FD - same as FC, except with far higher detergency requirement."
The lubricity can only go up to FB, FC and FD is just a little extra rating for EMISSIONS and DETERGENCY, aka mostly something to make EPA happy. That's it. It's improperly adjusted carburetors that prematurely wear out engines more than any difference between all of these synthetic oils (btw, to the other user that said he prefers ester oils over synthetics, they're one and the same.. The HP Ultra, a synthetic oil, is ester based). I do agree that detergency is important, it made me move away from mineral/semi-synthetic oils; HP Super, the aforementioned stihl semi-synthetic FD rated oil, gave 2 of my saws some stubborn carbon deposits on the piston head that couldn't be cleaned out and the tune was spot on (only went away a few months after switching back to Ultra and 710 on the other).
I do agree with you that a lot of these racing oils are mildly corrosive, they have an affinity for water due to the very nature of how esters behave and a lack of corrosion suppression additives, as performance engines don't care about endurance, they just need to last a few dozen hours until a rebuild so there's no point for corrosion protection. For my uses, I stay with Motul 710/HP Ultra due to being available easily around these parts, they both provided proper protection and cleanliness over the many years I've used them, and Motul 800 for my big saws due to higher flash point and better lubricity at high temperatures for when I mill. If anyone reading this and uses their chainsaw a few times a year only, don't waste your money and continue using dino oil, unmatched corrosion protection and the lubricity is more than enough.
Trust it if you want to in your saws. I wont. FB FD FB for their 3 shown
The saws I seen coming in were to dry IMHO. I like seeing a film coat when a saw is pulled down myself.
Stihl Ultra was initially developed for the 4 mix units Stihl produced . It got a bad rap for producing excessive carbon fouling in other conventional use . However when mixed properly for the tuning application . I have witnessed good performance in friends saws and blowers !
I ran opti-2 for a lot of years since the local dealer stocked it and recommended it . When I could no longer get it locally, I went to running the hp ultra that was recommended for my 4-mix kombi unit. Never thought my 2-stroke ran right with it, and decide it was best used exclusively in my Kombi-powerhead.
Could be , I never personally ran Ultra. , had friends that ran it with no problems , they were very knowledgeable within proper tuning . Actually , I would not buy Stihl products anyways lol.
I like the saws but not the oil.Could be , I never personally ran Ultra. , had friends that ran it with no problems , they were very knowledgeable within proper tuning . Actually , I would not buy Stihl products anyways lol.
I’ve never run anything but Stihl oil Since the day I bought my first 036 in like 1999. I’ve worn out lots of top ends and never scored a piston. Like wear the piston slick and just stick a new one in the cylinder. That speaks for itself.
I have several saws from the seventies' that have only seen conventional oil so doe that mean it is better. Not in my opinion. I think some oil is better than others, but modern oil with a good tune will give very satisfactory results. Thanks
banditt007
ArboristSite Operative
Note that the JASO FD
Note also that the allowable ash content is not the same from FC and FD, FC and FB both spec sulfated ash mass % of .25 as a max allowable, while the FD specs a .18 limit.
In the real world what difference does that make? I have no idea.
Check out this link to the JASO specs, and how its done what they test for ext. This is straight from the official site. http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/2T_2018_EV1912.pdf
Note also that the allowable ash content is not the same from FC and FD, FC and FB both spec sulfated ash mass % of .25 as a max allowable, while the FD specs a .18 limit.
In the real world what difference does that make? I have no idea.
Check out this link to the JASO specs, and how its done what they test for ext. This is straight from the official site. http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/2T_2018_EV1912.pdf
Tall Timber Saw Shop
ArboristSite Lurker
.....Jack does a pretty good job explaining various oils,
...... I myself have tried most all of the oils mentioned in this thread, I believe any high quality oil, properly mixed, with a properly tuned carburetor, and the proper spark plug and gap(a hotter or colder plug may be needed), and properly warming a saw before jamming it into some knarly red oak, will show no signs of compromise after many years of use.
.....I usually use Echo red armor, because I can get it locally and it’s affordable, I know many others that use it and I work on their saws, I have no complaints, (smokes a little), but I have no real complaints about the others. (Except Husqvarna oil, I avoid that)
I love oil threads. I use amsoil saber at 45:1. It turns the gas blue. Blue is my favorite color. It doesnt smell bad either.
I tried H1R a few years ago as it works great in RC helicopters but it was hard to tune in a saw. Not enough WOT I guess.
Stihl hp ultra smells like burning plastic cant stand it. I have a metric crap ton too. I mix up a half gallon or so every 4th tank on my fs91r. It seems to work well in the 4mix engines.
I tried H1R a few years ago as it works great in RC helicopters but it was hard to tune in a saw. Not enough WOT I guess.
Stihl hp ultra smells like burning plastic cant stand it. I have a metric crap ton too. I mix up a half gallon or so every 4th tank on my fs91r. It seems to work well in the 4mix engines.
mix it with the 4 cycle engines to dispose of it faster it won't hurt them a bit.
