2 cycle oil choices

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A guy I work with as a Bobbed deuce and a half with the multi-fuel diesel. Apparently the local park ordered 50 gallons of lamp oil for the cabins at the one park, and didn't realize they ordered lavender scented oil. Being that those cabins are heated and the lights are all runoff that oil, the lavender smell was overwhelming. They gave him the remaining 40 or 45 gallons, and he said he ran that and his truck smelled like a hippie going down the road, LOL!

I would love to buy that truck, but can't swing it financially right now, plus the Mrs said NO!

Back on topic, Kevin recommended I run 32:1 in the saw he ported for me, but my dealer said it would be too thick for my newer saws and weedeaters. I didn't want two different mix cans, so I met in the middle and run near 40:1. What I do is fill one of those little 1 gallon mix bottles up all the way, and mix that with a gallon of 100LL. New they are maybe 2/3 full at the 2.6oz mark, so I figure I'm somewhere between 3.2-3.5oz. I should probably actually measure it so I know for sure what I'm running.
Here is a easy to remember chart.
4.0 ounces mixed with 1.25 gallons = 40:1------------------------------------------ 4.0 ounces mixed with 1.0 gallon = 32:1
8.0 ounces mixed with 2.50 gallons = 40:1------------------------------------------ 8.0 ounces mixed with 2.0 gallons = 32:1
16.0 ounces mixed with 5.00 gallons = 40:1------------------------------------------ 16.0 ounces mixed with 4.0 gallons = 32:1
 

.....Jack does a pretty good job explaining various oils,
...... I myself have tried most all of the oils mentioned in this thread, I believe any high quality oil, properly mixed, with a properly tuned carburetor, and the proper spark plug and gap(a hotter or colder plug may be needed), and properly warming a saw before jamming it into some knarly red oak, will show no signs of compromise after many years of use.
.....I usually use Echo red armor, because I can get it locally and it’s affordable, I know many others that use it and I work on their saws, I have no complaints, (smokes a little), but I have no real complaints about the others. (Except Husqvarna oil, I avoid that)

Why do you avoid Husqvarna?
 
Just to show ya. Lot of folks like stihl ultra silver bottle the highest priced stuff I know of. It shows only FB. I wont touch the stuff myself by choice.

I have got alot of folks off that stuff here local. If I recall right even silver bottle poulan synthetic is FD

View attachment 870166
It’s good to know that it only causes cancer in California, though.
 
The new XP+ oil is really good, the older oil was not that great.
Husqvarna oil is hard to get here so i really wouldn't know i have been running echo or carquest oils for a long time. But one thing i have been meaning to ask do you know anything about the power blend gold that is out? i have seen it online but my dealer hasn't got it in stock yet.
 
Normally I say I run all of my 2 stroke stuff on Stihl Ultra at 50:1 with no problems. Then I got to thinking about it. Many of my saws are saws my Dad bought new back in the 70's, and he used nothing but Amoco 2 stroke oil, because we dealt at an Amoco station. Did those old saws run 5 days a week for 20-30 years because the Amoco oil was so good? I still go through 5-10 gallons of fuel a month so I'll just stick with what works for me.
 
Husqvarna oil is hard to get here so i really wouldn't know i have been running echo or carquest oils for a long time. But one thing i have been meaning to ask do you know anything about the power blend gold that is out? i have seen it online but my dealer hasn't got it in stock yet.
Don't know if the formula has changed, but it's still made by Citgo and is FD certified. It has always been a good product.
 
Why do you avoid Husqvarna?
Let me clarify my reasoning, I should have before, sorry bout that... I don’t think there is a performance or quality problem, but from a saw builders perspective it seemed to leave a sort of (best I can explain it) Soviet rifle cosmoline type of film on the piston and cylinders, kind of a pain to clean and it seems sticky. Maybe that’s the way it’s supposed to be, but with so many other options in 2 cycle engine oil I just avoid the husky stuff, great saws, I just avoid their bars and oils.
I recently did a 272 husky and I’ll have to ask that owner what he used because that was a very clean p/c. But I have had recently a couple 562 husky’s and a Jonsered 2260 and there seems to be a lot of carbon build up, so I’ll ask these owners what they’ve been using, all the mentioned saws have seen ALOT of use.
 
Let me clarify my reasoning, I should have before, sorry bout that... I don’t think there is a performance or quality problem, but from a saw builders perspective it seemed to leave a sort of (best I can explain it) Soviet rifle cosmoline type of film on the piston and cylinders, kind of a pain to clean and it seems sticky. Maybe that’s the way it’s supposed to be, but with so many other options in 2 cycle engine oil I just avoid the husky stuff, great saws, I just avoid their bars and oils.
I recently did a 272 husky and I’ll have to ask that owner what he used because that was a very clean p/c. But I have had recently a couple 562 husky’s and a Jonsered 2260 and there seems to be a lot of carbon build up, so I’ll ask these owners what they’ve been using, all the mentioned saws have seen ALOT of use.
Do you have experience with the new oil? The old version was not great, and as you said the residue was sticky.
 
Do you have experience with the new oil? The old version was not great, and as you said the residue was sticky.
I do not, I wouldn’t be against trying it, my local husky guy seems super expensive on most his items, and I have found oils that work for me, so I suppose I’ve had no reason to bother.
 
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