My goonness, I seem to have started an interesting discussion. I'm learning a lot about oils...which is bringing me back to my decision to stick with (saw) name brand oil. 
2 cycle oil warning
- Thread starter davidwyby
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
usmc50bmgsniper
ArboristSite Operative
ya, i seemed to create a conversation about maxima oil too, lol. like some said in this thread pick an oil and stick with it and that is what i am doing, been running maxima in all my 2 strokes for over 15 years with no problems. no carbon build up and the pistons always look like new. so to each his own, stick with an oil you like.
Reckon it has to do with how/where etc. ya use the saw.
Well I have been using the Husqvarna 2 stroke oil and have never had a problem. For my bar lube I switched to STIHL since Husky isnt available and will soon swith to the STIHL 2 stroke oil as well. (No Husky dealers) I dont see any problems with any of the big manufacturers.
Elmore
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have been using Optimal oil in my more expensive equipment for about 17 years under heavy homeowner use maintaining 5 acres. I mixed it rich though, 40:1. I couldn't bring myself to mix at 75:1 up to 100:1 or even 108:1. Yes over 100:1, that is what some suggested rates were. No problems. On my little Poulan 2000 I always used cheaper brands of oil at 16:1. I will be using Mobil synthetic MX2t then Racing 2T in every thing as soon as I run out of the Opti 2 and little Echo packs of Opti. I am currently using the Mobil synthetic, 32:1, in a big Shindaiwa brush cutter, B45, and an Echo Blower, PB400E. It works great. Smoother performance, less smell and steady idle. Maybe with use it will burn off that crusty black carbon coating the piston crown. I have heard that Opti 2 leaves them like that but it may have also been caused by years of using low octane fuel. The equipment has always operated great but now seems to function even better.
Last edited:
bwalker said:
Seven or eight years. It was one year old when I got it and I rode a lot. The muffler and pipe looked fine. Trials bike's pipes run very cool for a 2-stoke and hard carbon really doesn't form. I know people have their own opinion of 927 but I've had good luck with it.
No, I do not. Thats what two cycle oil is designed to do. And for the ump-teenth time what small amount of fuel oil mix that makes it to the combustion chamber in liquid form is quickly evaporated once in the combustion chamber. In effect ALL the oil in the mix has droped out of the fuel by the time its in the chamber son in effect all surfaces of the engine are coated with oil.
klickitatsacket
Addicted to ArboristSite
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2004
- Messages
- 2,051
- Reaction score
- 285
Ben, What you are talking about, The oil sepperating is exactly what all the wonder oils are suppose to do and that is their big claims or what their big claims are based on. This is exactly my problem with them. When you tear down an engine you will find thick oil coating the entire engine. (this is great for lubing the low end) the problem is that it sticks to the surfaces and burns on those surfaces that are exposed to direct flame and in some instances partially down the side of the piston making it look like blow by even though there is none.(The heat traveling down the piston). Dino oil stays blended in the fuel better and moves with the fuel. Where synthetics and castor leaves a layer of oil behind for lubrication, dino is constantly rotating out with the flow of mix. Both actually rotate out but the synthetics and the castors are designed to leave oil for better lubrication. This works and works well on the low end and even on the piston surfaces. There is a cost though, and that is the oil laying on the hot surfaces burns like the oil in a frying pan if left. Synthetic blends are an attempt to get the best of synthetic low end protection and at the same time minimize fouling in the cylinder. I have not played with many blends yet. I am hoping to some time this next year. BTW Ben, how many tanks of fuel did you have through that saw you showed us?
And any other two cycle oil.
Exactly like its suppose to...
This is not true. ANY oil most drop out of suspension to lubricate. This is fact.
Thats also not true.
this sint true either. Synthetic compounds are in blends to REDUCE smoke and deposits. Have you used Husky, Echo or Stihl black bottle oil? All are syn blends. In reality there are very few straight dino oils out there and non that meat Jaso fc and Iso egd specs.
You will have to ask lambert. The other pic I posted was a engine that had enough time on it to wear out a saw.
Comparing Castor oils and Synthetics is a mistake. Castor oils leave deposits beacuse they polymerize under heat thus forming varnish and carbon. Synthetics (Esters, PIB's) on the other hand decompose under adequate heqt leaving very little if any carbon. In fact most of the carbon you see in a two cycle no days is from the gasoline.
I just looked at my bottle of 927 and it says that it's a blend of castor and synthetic esters along with some anti rust additives. The label also says "prevents ring sticking" so, there you go, case closed. I like reading these oil war threads more than I like posting in them because I'm convinced that most engine problems are caused by fuel, bad fuel/air ratios or water, not your choice of oil. Of course no one wants to admit that they may not be the best engine tuner but blaming the oil is easy.
John....
John....
So does almost every other two cycle oil. So what?
klickitatsacket
Addicted to ArboristSite
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2004
- Messages
- 2,051
- Reaction score
- 285
Ben what are deposits? You see you are not looking at the entirety of this. You take bits and pieces of statements without looking at it as a whole. "they blend it to REDUCE smoke and deposits" Here is the thing. You are attributing the synthetic as the cure all. It's not. The synthetic will help with the smoke but it is the casue of greater deposits on the top of the piston. A saw running dino mix that is set up and tuned right will be clear on the top of the piston even after 500 hrs. I have yet to see a synthetic do that. I will throw you a bone and conceed maybe it's just bad luck on my part and I keep seeing all the exceptions to the rule. hmmmm...... Hey it's your turn to buy a round.
I am? I use a variety of oils and the one I am using right now isnt a full synthetic.
This has no basis in fact...
Dean, this is really getting old. Your flat out wrong, just admit it and move on.
klickitatsacket
Addicted to ArboristSite
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2004
- Messages
- 2,051
- Reaction score
- 285
John, I never blamed oil. Oh that's right I have never had an engine fail yet to blame the oil on. What I posted about the oil was observations and a lot of research. The funny thing is that most of my research was done because of what Ben had to say on the subjuct about a year and a half ago. The other thing is that just becasue some oil company claims something doesn't make it true. This is why I test and/or observe any of it before I recomend it. Heck if you are going to believe the back of the 927 bottle then you might as well run 100:1 AMS Oil. Remember the bottle labels were not printed by the scientists or the engineers but by the marketeers. No one has to take my word for it, but I will make the bet that there are only a handful in here that have Pulled down more saws than I have, let alone rebuild them.whatsnext said:
klickitatsacket
Addicted to ArboristSite
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2004
- Messages
- 2,051
- Reaction score
- 285
Ben I will admit that you are blowing smoke up everyones a$$ and your pride won't let you admit that.
Dean, Its you who is blowing the smoke. We are talking about well known principles hear. Its a shame you havent taken the time to educate yourself.
Sounds like some1 needs to contact an oil manufacturer or something.
Exactly!
Really, though, to sum it up: I"m sticking with a saw name brand oil, prolly echo, or Husqy. Why fool around and take the risk of using something cheap or different? I think I already said that. Oh well. Game on
Similar threads
- Locked
