2100cd milling problems

[huskyhank]

First, clean the air filter. The old mesh filters will clog and not let enough air into the carb. and then the saw gets real boggy. For milling you should look at and clean the filter every other tank of fuel.

To tune, set the high until it blubbers then open it just a tiny bit. If it blubbers out of the cut but clears out under load in the cut it is perfect. A tach might seem to be more accurate because it shows you numbers, but by the time you factor in the fuel, oil, altitude and temperature differences that are possible I think setting a saw by ear is a surer way to have it running correctly.

 

[Timberframed]

Like an old Harley. I put the timing light away and lost that clear plug many years ago. Ya tune'em by ear.

 

[pwoller]

Thanks guys. Ill tune it by ear.

 

[randyg]

Gold star for Husky Hank

First, clean the air filter. The old mesh filters will clog and not let enough air into the carb. and then the saw gets real boggy. For milling you should look at and clean the filter every other tank of fuel..

By the looks of the fine milling dust on the clutch, I wonder what air filter looks like? Air filter plugged, saw runs rich/weak, as rpms drop clutch slips causing 'scratchy' sound (steel on steel), probably smoked a little too? Look for brite shiney steel surface on inside of drum, perhaps even a little galled looking.

820wards mentioned dry chain as another poss. for loss of power worth looking at if filter NOT the issue. Probably would have got some smoke off the bar then too, and a loose chain?

Bearing would ONLY make noise at idle or very low rpm's when clutch is NOT engaged, and then would sound more like a squeak or squeal than a scratch.

 

[mtngun]

For those of us with impaired hearing, a tach is the only way to go.

Not sure about the rpm spec for that saw, but if you ask over on the beg-for-manuals sticky thread, it should be in the manual.

According to this thread, some 2100's may have had a limited carb. If so, that could complicate tuning. http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=122186

 

[DRB]

+1 on the impact for the clutch

Don't for get about the fuel filter. I had a similar problem a while back and it was the fuel filter.

Read This
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=155944

 

[betterbuilt]

I use an impact to take them off. You don't need the rope in the spark plug hole. Just put the spark plug back in. You might be asking for trouble with the rope in there. The first time I tried to use a impact it slipped of the nut. I ground the end off my socket down a little so it fit on the clutch nut better. I use a torque wrench to put it back on.

 

[mtngun]

Don't for get about the fuel filter. I had a similar problem a while back and it was the fuel filter.

+1

I had a similar problem a while back and it was a torn fuel line & clogged carb inlet screen. Would start and rev, cut for a bit, but then start bogging in the cut.

Could be lots of things, keep an open mind, and play it safe.

 

[pwoller]

Well I found some broken parts. I'm wondering if this happened when I took the clutch off or if it was part of the problem to begin?

So whats it going to take to get this thing running right again? Funny thing happened when I was blowing it off I hit a gyser of oil, dont know if that means anything but I thought I'd mention it.

 

[pwoller]

I'm going to need some help putting this saw back together.

 

[PhilB]

To determine if the broken parts were broken in disassembly or old breaks, clean the parts and look for clean metal or (corroded/discolored) metal. If you look close you should be able to tell. Clean metal is a recent break. A magnifying glass would be helpfull. There may be a mix of clean and discolored. If it's both you just finished off the break when you disassembled it.

 

[betterbuilt]

That's a pretty good job you got there. It looks fixable. Can you post a clear picture of the crank. The threads may be damaged.

here's some of the parts you need.

http://cgi.ebay.com/HUSQVARNA-CHAIN...415582674?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item51966575d2

http://cgi.ebay.com/HUSQVARNA-CHAIN...321375341?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item53e4d3dc6d

I'd go ahead and get some spares if you can get the shipping combined.

 

[srcarr52]

The damage to the oil drive gear wouldn't happen when pulling it apart. Your oil pump drive locked up and stripped the gear and then broke the drive on the rim driver.

Since it looks like your oil pump wasn't working for a while I bet your lack of power was coming from a overheated and dragging chain, plus the drag of all those torn up parts.

To be safe I would still pull the carb and clean, put in a new fuel line and filter why you have it on the bench. Also pull the muffler and look at the piston to make sure you didn't hurt anything pushing the saw so hard.

All of those parts are easy to find, cylinders are not. Happy milling!

 

[mtngun]

Since it looks like your oil pump wasn't working for a while I bet your lack of power was coming from a overheated and dragging chain, plus the drag of all those torn up parts.

+1

Good detective work, pwoller. Looks like you found the source of the funny noise. :msp_scared:

Where is the seal for the clutch-side crank bearing ? Did you remove it before taking the pics, or is it missing in action ?

Repping you for the excellent pics and troubleshooting .:rockn:

 

[pwoller]

I think it fell off when I was blowing the oiler pump off. It would of been in between the pump and the bearings right?

 

[pwoller]

To determine if the broken parts were broken in disassembly or old breaks, clean the parts and look for clean metal or (corroded/discolored) metal. If you look close you should be able to tell. Clean metal is a recent break. A magnifying glass would be helpfull. There may be a mix of clean and discolored. If it's both you just finished off the break when you disassembled it.

Good idea. Looks like old breaks.

 

[srcarr52]

+1
Where is the seal for the clutch-side crank bearing ? Did you remove it before taking the pics, or is it missing in action ?

The seal for the crank is in the oil pump housing. I would recommend getting a new one since I'm sure it took a little beating with all those parts flying around, might as well replace the flywheel side at the same time (I'm sure they are about shot).

Crankcase seal - both sides

You'll also need
Oil Pump New
or
Oil Pump Used

Oil pump drive
Oil Gear Washer
Or
Oil Pump Gear and Washer Used

Rim and Drum - no sense getting used for the same price

You may need one of these
Clutch bearing

Or this may have all the parts you need used
Ebay 1100CD

 

[pwoller]

The seal for the crank is in the oil pump housing. I would recommend getting a new one since I'm sure it took a little beating with all those parts flying around, might as well replace the flywheel side at the same time (I'm sure they are about shot).

Crankcase seal - both sides

You'll also need
Oil Pump New
or
Oil Pump Used

Oil pump drive
Oil Gear Washer
Or
Oil Pump Gear and Washer Used

Rim and Drum - no sense getting used for the same price

You may need one of these
Clutch bearing

Or this may have all the parts you need used
Ebay 1100CD

This is looking like its going to be an expensive fix. I guess the 390xp will get some milling action until this thing gets fixed.

 

[srcarr52]

You're looking somewhere in the $50-80 + shipping. Small price to pay to keep an old monster alive.

 

[huskyhank]

Let me know via PM if you need someone to fix that for you. I know a great shop in southern Indiana.

Before it broke, how did that 2100 compare to your 390?