2101xp/ top all time muscle saws!!!!!!!!!!!

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Check you metering lever height, spring and needle. If the lever is too high, or the spring is weak, or the needle isn't sealing you'll get fuel pushing past when at low RPM and you won't be able to get them to idle right. You'll have the idle mixture screw turned in too far to deal with the extra fuel that is dumping in randomly and then when you hit the throttle it will fall on it's face because it won't get enough fuel to spool up.

You can use a vacuum gauge to check if the needle is sealing. The height will be obvious if you have another working carb to look at. Finally the spring pressure is a guessing game unless you have a blow-off gauge and some reference numbers.
 
FWIW- check the throttle shaft for excess play in the shaft bore on the linkage side. my friends 298xp was pretty loose and he ran it anyway....and sadly stuck it. i should have impounded it while i was putting a new starter spool on it.

I've also seen a worn butterfly that caused high idle problems.
 
I finally blocked the governor on the 2100 and got the carb back in but I am chasing the tune, it will either idle and not throttle up or it will throttle up and not idle. I had to take a break before I threw my screwdriver across the shop so any insight would be welcome. I am almost ready to put the un governed tilly off my 480CD back on.
No high idle or spped up though right Jim?
 
Tramp pictures were just fine! I have done pics of pics too, as I am no computer expert. Good points on the carb Allyn, Tramp, and Shawn. Shawn what you were saying about metering adjustment, how do you adjust it, needle and seat right? I am up to about 7 carb kits now on saws I have rebuilt carbs, and doing better and better. But one ms 200 I did will occasionly die for no reason, it runs great, and once in awhile it will throttle up like running out of fuel, and die. New fuel filter, line and carb kit. And not an old saw either. And gas will be full?
 
the tank vent is new, saw runs great with other carb so I am assuming it is a carb issue, my bench is filled with yellow saws at the moment so when I get them cleared off it will go back on. I will recheck the metering level and needle, I will replace both needles and blow everything back out and see what happens.
 
Good deal Jim. Yeah big difference I have always heard. Seen by the sound, and tune on videos. I wonder why yours will not work with the governor plugged. You going to try a welsh plug?
 
My guess is that the governor plugging job didn't take. A welch plug from a carb kit, or a piece punched from a beer can works well. Ambull (JP) uses a piece punched from an old carb diaphragm when he disables the governor on HS carbs (that's a new one for me). I think I'll put a piece from an old diaphragm under a welch plug (for a good seal) the next time I do one of these governor plugging opperations.:msp_thumbup:
 
My guess is that the governor plugging job didn't take. A welch plug from a carb kit, or a piece punched from a beer can works well. Ambull (JP) uses a piece punched from an old carb diaphragm when he disables the governor on HS carbs (that's a new one for me). I think I'll put a piece from an old diaphragm under a welch plug (for a good seal) the next time I do one of these governor plugging opperations.:msp_thumbup:

I am using a thin aluminum punching from the scrap that is the diameter of the hole, I may use a piece of diaphragm under the aluminum for a better seal.
 
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:popcorn:
 
Homyjim, and Aaron I think you guys are on the right track with the seal. They say them till carbs were the best built or close too, werth fixing. Durand I like it buddy, great to see you and that sweet ass saw! What are your plans to keep it? If I remember stock build right?
 
Durand, saw your post for sale. Double check your clutch assembly, mine did that too. I had a washer or something backwards I forgot exactly but it was my assembly, and or clutch bearing grease or new bearing. Worth a shot thought I would ask, but you are pretty sharp, doubt you missed anything. For the price I would hold with it. Theres some who don't think they are worth much, but they are, and I can take some credit to our thread! Because they bring a good buck, and most are beat and you don't know what you may get. With yours you do I would buy it no doubt! Any one who wants a swwet ass 2100 see durand on the classifieds.
 
Durand, saw your post for sale. Double check your clutch assembly, mine did that too. I had a washer or something backwards I forgot exactly but it was my assembly, and or clutch bearing grease or new bearing. Worth a shot thought I would ask, but you are pretty sharp, doubt you missed anything. For the price I would hold with it. Theres some who don't think they are worth much, but they are, and I can take some credit to our thread! Because they bring a good buck, and most are beat and you don't know what you may get. With yours you do I would buy it no doubt! Any one who wants a sweet ass 2100 see durand on the classifieds.

Hey Norm, I checked the clutch stuff, I think its probably just a slightly weak clutch spring. Its not too bad really, but the chain does try to creep around slightly at idle.

Ill probably end up keeping it. It's almost a complete NOS 2100! They bring a little less than that on Ebay for a well used one, for what it cost to ship a big saw like that I though it was a fair price, But I don't have to sell it :msp_thumbup:. Actually Im starting to think it would look good with a 28'' Techlite bar :), what ya'll think?
 
A little creep, I could live with that, just change out the spring and put in a new clutch bearing:) when you can.
 
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