2101xp/ top all time muscle saws!!!!!!!!!!!

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Ya 2100 s are great
Kinda perfect for falling as the were lopsided and liked to flop starter down . About the single biggest problem they had was vibration .

And if you set it down running on anykind of hill she'll roll away from ya.:eek2:
 
Great picture Aaron! That saw has many good memories, glad it's in the right hands. Between running my 660, and 2101 well and my other saws really. I don't notice a world of difference in how I feel with vibration, or my hands. All the ones with the most torque vibrate the most. I grew up with saws with no vibes so I will take any with LOL! The 372 I have is the most noticeably smooth one. My 044 is close but the 372 may be the smoothest I have run yet. I have yet to run a 3120, but can understand how the dawgs work like a brake if it stalls. Happens to my 660 and 2101 once in awhile, any saw really. But I agree monster crank, bore and stroke on the 2100 pulls like a train, thing is 30 years down the road and many will still be running just as strong:msp_thumbup: Yeah the one saw they should come back with.:msp_thumbsup:
 
Having had and cut alot of timber with the 2100 and 2101 . And 5, different 394 s . Th
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e 394 is the better bushlin saw . Just from the human stand point . Just less vibration . A little less weight . I do miss the pump oiler alot tho . And the 394 s had the majik blue button / compression release . But the dogs were terrible .

These dogs are the best I ever saw or used on a 394 .
 
Nice, the 394 is awesome indeed! Never saw dawgs like them I like it! Yes definately today in smaller production jobs I can see the benefit of a lighter saw, and vibration of course a factor. But the saws I own none of the vibes bother me too much. Tell you the truth the new ht131 pole saw hasn been bothering me a little, put my hands near to sleep. Hope my hands hold up to upcoming years when I get older. I have broken both once, and they seem ok. My left being the freshest break, and sometimes bothers me. Not so much from vibration, but having my hand gripped or clenched for awhile.
 
Yup , I know what you mean . My wifes 335 Husky bothers the heck out of my hands when I'm climbing . Of the only 2 things that I Don't like about the 460 Stihl . The vibration is the worst . . The front hb being to far to the back is the 2 nd . The 372 Wrap with the 75 cc jug vibrates half as much or less . . And it is properly stretched out . The 660 stihl feels like you grabbed a vibrator compared to a 394 .

A friend in Coffman Cove came up with the dogs on my 394 . The inner one is made from CoreTen steel . .
the outer one isn't . Thats why its thicker . I've had them on 4 different 394 s .
I ran a 2101 that had something hay wire with it . I was trying it out for a guy I knew in Sitka . Both my partner and I agreed . It ran fine but in my partners words "I don't know why but that saw just ain't got it . .
 
It had less power and proformance than my 281 or 064 .

Some guy said it was something in the carb . I went to 064 s and 044 s bushlin on POW by then so never persued it . .

I agree with you about how smooth the 044 was . Really a Great saw .

It has a lot to do with the governor in the carb, mine would run like a raped ape then get really rich and slow down, I am in the process of making a block for the governor and have put the carb off my 480CD in until it is finished, the 2100 seems to like the other carb but I will have to get it into some wood to know for sure.
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These have the governed Tillotson HS carb correct? I can see why T.B. had a problem with the saw. It's a simple opperation to block off those governors. Many Poulans and Homelites (and a few Macs) had those governed HS carbs. On some of the Homelite versions, they instructed a fellow to run the saw with the H side 1/4 turn out from seated! Screw that. Block off the governor and set 'er around 1 turn out like God intended...:D
 
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T-bushler good run down. 394's are awesome I always wanted one. Jim, and Aaron you have a bingo. I have seen the limited governor models which were most, and mine was the last run of the 2100's. A 90 or so. Newer tilitson unlimited, world of difference.
 
Ya , the 2 or 3 2100s and the 2101 that I owned were HOSSES . The 2101 I owned was the strongest 6 cubeor smaller saw I ever owned . Or ran . It would cut right with the best 075 I owned . . But my 3120 would eat it . . But it was enough heavier that the 2100-01s were alot better if I was over all bushlin with it . .

The 298 was a real good saw also .

I blew up a 045 Super and an 056 Mag Ii buckin with a 42" bar fulltime . I traded in my last 056Mag II on my first new 2100 . For 2 years it lived with a 42" bar on it fallin + buckin big spruce up to 9' on the stump . All it ever did was eat wood and ask for more .
 
Good stuff that's big wood. I love it:cool2: Yeah can;t forget that 298 good one indeed. 3120 is definately a king. That is what I love on the 2100's like you said lighter than a 3120. At that in big wood they can hanlde what the 3120 does, maybe not as fast but it will get done. Shade smaller bar but it will happen. Love to see some pics of your tree's and work:msp_thumbsup: I like your avatar pic nice stump. So are you still running 394's?
 
No I' m in the Interior now . 460s + 372s . Small timber . Lord Willing I'll be cutting on the coast somewhere until freeze up .
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. This is me . Coffman Cove . P.o.W. Is. . Red cedar blowdown . Root sat back down . 394 . 32" Oregon 75CKX Dura Pro 8 tooth . Pristine Mac T 6 point . Buffalo Flyweight Springheels w/ #2 Redwood corks .
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Biggest Yellow cedar I've fell to date 96" on the stump . Snag stob .044 Stihl Madsen modified 34" Sugi Hara Oregon 75 CJ . Upper Coffman drainage . Pro Teck filter.
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.
3120 Husky 42" Oregon . 3/8 75 CKX Dura Pro . Tolstoy Bay . Red cedar .
 
My 2100 I just built just gets busy and a wood killer indeed. Have the thin rings XP piston with a V-stack and the sweet HS Tilly non-gov type came off a local mill with low hours...hang on Zilla:hmm3grin2orange:
 
I finally blocked the governor on the 2100 and got the carb back in but I am chasing the tune, it will either idle and not throttle up or it will throttle up and not idle. I had to take a break before I threw my screwdriver across the shop so any insight would be welcome. I am almost ready to put the un governed tilly off my 480CD back on.
 
Are you sure the carb block is good ?

This is why I don't work on old saws
It may be your low speed needle is shot . Did you put a carb kit in it ??

Yes the carb block is good, I did replace the low speed needle and it helped a bit. It has a new kit in the carb but I noticed the hole to run the pump didn't quite line up in the new gasket so I will open it up to where it needs to be, if it does not work the ole tilly will be going on.
 
FWIW- check the throttle shaft for excess play in the shaft bore on the linkage side. my friends 298xp was pretty loose and he ran it anyway....and sadly stuck it. i should have impounded it while i was putting a new starter spool on it.
 

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