290-390 Conversion / Any speciality tools needed??

[drf255]

I paid $22 for a p/c for my 290 with free shipping, the 390 is close to $80 where I looked.

The smaller displacement top ends of nearly every model are cheaper. No one wants them.

Why go through the trouble of doing all that work for a smaller displacement saw?

I believe that is why. I've noticed as well.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Was it Stihl or A/M?

You can't buy much of anything Stihl for that price, it was aftermarket. Stihl p/c would be over $100 I would imagine.. You are correct, most people want a more powerful saw and a muffler mod, port job, etc. I have enough trouble with the stock saws so I'm not hopping up any of mine.
Like was stated also, clamshell saws are a bit harder to change p/cs in but if you have a little spare time most people can change one and I haven't noticed any special tools are needed except a T27 driver. A screwdriver type T27 will work most of the time.

 

[Paragon Builder]

Moose, if it's like the one I did, you need to use the base bolts that come with the kit. The old ones are a different thread.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Moose, if it's like the one I did, you need to use the base bolts that come with the kit. The old ones are a different thread.

I don't believe any bolts came with my kit. I better check to make sure the old ones fit.

 

[FishNJ]

is the sawsalvage kit for $74 the farmertec kit?
are the rings good to go, or are you guys putting cabers in?

 

[67L36Driver]

When putting the rear plastic back on the carcass, install the kill switch wire & grommet first. Then the impulse hose and the boot next.

Yes, a 6" torx driver in your variable speed drill is a time saver. Get the screws started in the old threads first.

 

[Paragon Builder]

is the sawsalvage kit for $74 the farmertec kit?
are the rings good to go, or are you guys putting cabers in?

I used the complete farmer tec kit as is. But I reused the stock pan so I didn't have to remove the bar stud. It runs pretty strong. I've got 4 tanks through it. It's getting stronger. Time will tell...

 

[FishNJ]

I used the complete farmer tec kit as is. But I refused the stock pan so I didn't have to remove the bar stud. It runs pretty strong. I've got 4 tanks through it. It's getting stronger. Time will tell...

Thanks. I've got a good 029 super that I'm thinking about swapping. If I sold the good OEM piston and cylinder it would probably cover the kit.


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[HusqyStihl]

Moose, if it's like the one I did, you need to use the base bolts that come with the kit. The old ones are a different thread.

Thats good to know, ill have to check first.

is the sawsalvage kit for $74 the farmertec kit?
are the rings good to go, or are you guys putting cabers in?

I think ive got caber rings comin, not from the kit but from Jeremy. Sending one of my stock 290 P&C to him

 

[fearofpavement]

The 029 Super is the same as the MS290.
The cylinder screws will turn in tight but they will go into the new cylinder. They're an interference fit.. I never use the supplied screws with the aftermarket kits. The ones I've seen are hex head, not torx.

 

[Paragon Builder]

The 029 Super is the same as the MS290.
The cylinder screws will turn in tight but they will go into the new cylinder. They're an interference fit.. I never use the supplied screws with the aftermarket kits. The ones I've seen are hex head, not torx.

Mine felt like they were cross threading. I tried the kit ones and they threaded in by hand.

 

[HusqyStihl]

Crap, the 390 tops didnt cone with a decomp valve either. Will i have to punch out a hole in the top plastics for use of a deco valve once i get a couple?

The 290 doesnt have a decomp valve.

Does the 390 take the same spark plug? Im searching for recommended plug and gap now

 

[FishNJ]

Get a decompression plug for like $3. Don't need the valve anyway. Should be same spark plug.


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[HusqyStihl]

Mine felt like they were cross threading. I tried the kit ones and they threaded in by hand.

Yeah these original 290 cylinder bolts are really really tight after the first couple of turns. To the point where i feel theyre either gonna crossthread or i'm gonna snap the corner off the cylinder during a test run before the cylinder is in place. Might need a thread chaser, im thinking that may help get them in a little easier? Made it about halfway thru the cylinder and thought i was gonna break something.

I do have those big wire ties, or maybe instead of yamabond ill bust out the good ole JB weld in it's place. No bolts needed!

 

[fearofpavement]

The bolts are making threads as they go, it takes a lot of torque to get them in but I've never broken one. I've bolted a lot of these together.

 

[HusqyStihl]

I take back the part where i said everything i can put back without labeling. No reason to remove the clutch break system but i did. Gotta find and exploded view now

 

[fearofpavement]

I take back the part where i said everything i can put back without labeling. No reason to remove the clutch break system but i did. Gotta find and exploded view now

This is where it's nice to have another same model saw to compare it with.

 

[Paragon Builder]

Yeah these original 290 cylinder bolts are really really tight after the first couple of turns. To the point where i feel theyre either gonna crossthread or i'm gonna snap the corner off the cylinder during a test run before the cylinder is in place. Might need a thread chaser, im thinking that may help get them in a little easier? Made it about halfway thru the cylinder and thought i was gonna break something.

I do have those big wire ties, or maybe instead of yamabond ill bust out the good ole JB weld in it's place. No bolts needed!

I compared the bolts and the threads weren't even close to the same pitch. I suppose they would make new threads in the aluminum. It just felt wrong to force it. Goes against everything I've been taught....and yes the new bolts were hex instead of torque drive.

 

[HusqyStihl]

I compared the bolts and the threads weren't even close to the same pitch. I suppose they would make new threads in the aluminum. It just felt wrong to force it. Goes against everything I've been taught....and yes the new bolts were hex instead of torque drive.

Yeah i can get em half way thru the cylinder mounting holes but the first one i tried looked crooked so i backed off as to not break anything. Gonna hit the stores tomorrow to pickup some yamabond the lowes after to find bolts the fit. The must be metric cause all my dies are standard except one andnone fit.

 

[Paragon Builder]

Yeah i can get em half way thru the cylinder mounting holes but the first one i tried looked crooked so i backed off as to not break anything. Gonna hit the stores tomorrow to pickup some yamabond the lowes after to find bolts the fit. The must be metric cause all my dies are standard except one andnone fit.

Mine didn't go in 2-3 turns before I knew something was wrong. If it goes in halfway easy, I'd say Fearofpavement is right. Mine was a complete farmer tec engine, so maybe different than the top end kits???