.325 or 3/8 on Stihl 036?

[mountainlake]

So now were talking about hopped up 80cc saw cutting 12" wood ( most likely soft wood) I'm sure a 8 or 9 tooth would cut faster than a 7. No stock 50cc saw is going to cut faster in bigger wood with a 3/8 chain. Steve

I still haven't heard any explaination why that 7900 Dolmar cut way faster with a 7 pin or why my Rancher55 53cc cuts way faster with a 325 setup, those are facts not BS. Steve

 

[timberwolf]

C H A I N !

 

[mountainlake]

C H A I N !

Try again, same square corner chiesel, no low profile junk. Expain again with something that makes some sence. Nuff of the BS. Steve

 

[outdoortype]

ZeroJunk try both and report back

I've cut 90% red oak with a similar sized saw 59cc and you might be better off with .325. When both my saws get fully broken in I'm going to compare the two .325x7 vs 3/8x7. Dead red oak just seems a bit harder and tighter than the white Oaks I've cut. Also, the chips are smaller as well. If your 036 is like most, you should be able to switch sprockets easily and fairly cheap. Look around for a used farm boss bar (most are .325) and there ya go!

 

[Brushwacker]

Sounds like my best bet on the 036 is 3/8 7 and a 20 inch bar.

This has been an education.

That was my favorite on my old 034 super. It sucked to much gas with .325 7. 20" balanced, handled a cut well consistantly. 24" felt good in all but the hardest big white oak I cut. 18" was uncomfortable for me.

 

[timberwolf]

Got some test times last night, had trouble getting video uploaded, but will try again later.

Tested a stock 026 with 16 inch bar and chain and every rim I could get on it. Both chains basically new with 1 or 2 light sharpenings. rakers untouched. both chisel chain .325 Stihl RS and 3/8 carlton both 50 gauge. 4 test cuts for each combo 2 from each end of the log, took best time.

Wood was 13.5 inch poplar and 8 inch fir.

A few interesting things.
-In the poplar .325 7 and .325 8 were almost dead even
-Saw would even pull 3/8 8 or .325 9 in the bigger wood, just took a light touch.
-.325 8 and 3/8 7 were dead even in smaller wood, but 3/8 8 was faster.

Guess results will be different for everyone, but this is the second time I found pretty much the same thing.

To me it looks like a 50 cc saw is about the cut off point .325 to 3/8, that follows pretty much what the saw makers do as far as set up, seldom see a sub 50cc come with full 3/8 and don't often see anything over the 50-60cc range come with .325. If it can go either way with a 50cc 026 then I would think jumping up another 10 plus ccs would favor the 3/8 more.

I'l try to get some video up later.

Mountain, how high up are you cutting? Elevation makes a big difference, If your up several thousand feet into thin air your 60cc stock saw would only have the torque my 50cc saw would have down here in the lowlands. That could make a difference in gearing.

 

[stihl sawing]

I have always run 3/8 on mine and it has never been a problem. Even run a 25 inch bar sometimes and still no problem. Most of the time it has a 20 inch bar on.

 

[timberwolf]

13.5 inch poplar with .325 chain. Time was almost dead even 7 or 8 tooth, so just put the one video up, they both look and sound essentially the same.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lF8fnpWExqo

13.5 inch poplar with 3/8 chain, It does load the saw more, but gets through quicker.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2U5wA5Bu3kg

And here is 3/8 with 8 pin gear in small wood, check out the change overs, great practice to do switches in small wood with a stock saw and tall gear.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3JKtFNcO0aA

 

[WildnCrazyGuy]

Good thing I did a search...

Now, what say ye all on a MS260 Pro with an 18" .325 setup. What should my dealer set it up with? A 7 or 8 T .325 RIM?

Now, when I decide to change the bar for a 16" 3/8 setup, which way should I go? A 7 or 8 T 3/8 RIM?

I'll be using both because I have both chains to use up. Mainly will be used to cut less than 16 inch wood. Just cutting firewood rounds with the occaisional fall or two. Will also use to de-limb quite a bit as well, so smaller stuff like this size saw was designed for. Just not sure how I should request the setup from the dealer.

And a dumb question, because apparently my dealer has to look into it, but I can use the same clutch cover and setup, just interchange the RIM sprockets and of course appropriate bars, right? Dealer is wanting almost 30 dollars for an additional 3/8 RIM sprocket. I think he's quoting me a RIM sprocket kit and I wanted to make sure all I would need would be the sprocket. Thanks.

 

[Zodiac45]

Guess results will be different for everyone, but this is the second time I found pretty much the same thing.

To me it looks like a 50 cc saw is about the cut off point .325 to 3/8, that follows pretty much what the saw makers do as far as set up, seldom see a sub 50cc come with full 3/8 and don't often see anything over the 50-60cc range come with .325. If it can go either way with a 50cc 026 then I would think jumping up another 10 plus ccs would favor the 3/8 more.

.

+1 Yep same thing I've found.

 

[SawTroll]

..... And a dumb question, because apparently my dealer has to look into it, but I can use the same clutch cover and setup, just interchange the RIM sprockets and of course appropriate bars, right? Dealer is wanting almost 30 dollars for an additional 3/8 RIM sprocket. I think he's quoting me a RIM sprocket kit and I wanted to make sure all I would need would be the sprocket. Thanks.

You only need to change the rim itself, provided Stihl has 3/8" rims for the "mini" 7-spline cluth drums.

It is a slight inconvenience with the 026 and smaller Stihls, that they use the "mini" 7-spline, and not the regular "small" one, like everyone else.....:censored: