346XP isn't running right after I severly pinched the bar/chain :-(

[JRHAWK9]

I pulled an oopsie! My 346 got pinched tonight in such a way that the weight of the tree put some pretty good stress on the chain to the point where the chain was stretched a good 2"+ from the top of the bar. The saw even changed rpms at an idle. I shut the saw off right away when I heard the change in rpm and I knew this was not a good situation. I then made mistake #2 when I started rocking the saw back and forth to try to get it unstuck (with the saw off). I got it out and when I tried to start it about 10 minutes later it wouldn't start. It would fire and soon as I touched the throttle it would bog and quit. I finally got it to start by quickly working the throttle and once I got it running it would stay running.....HOWEVER; if I tip the saw down while running it changes rpm and runs faster. Is it possible I messed up a crank seal or something? I'm not going to use it until I get it fixed, as something is not right with it. It has always ran & started awesome, until tonight when I was a bonehead.

I took the bar off and blew everything off. I then put my ear near the rim sprocket and can actually hear a squeaky sound come from the crank seal area when I pull the saw over slowly. I'm pretty sure I screwed up the crank seal. So, do you think it's just the seal or did I screw the bearing as well?

I have a call into Scott (tree monkey) as he's not too far from me so I'm going to have to run it up to him.

I guess the positive from this situation is I know how the saw normally runs and it didn't take me long to realize something was not right and stopped using it before I blew the thing up.

Maybe I need to pick up a new 550XP so I have a backup 50cc saw

So, what do you guys think? <----about the 346XP issue and not whether I need a 550XP.

 

[bluesportster02]

you probably torqued the av bushings when you tilt the saw it gives it more throttle

 

[zogger]

torn carb boot?

 

[JRHAWK9]

no, I know that's not it. When I tip the saw down it will noticeably bog and then speed up a good amount.

 

[sunfish]

I guess it's possible you messed up the seal, or bent the crank. Never heard of this with a 346 though. Scott will get ya ironed out for sure.

 

[JRHAWK9]

I hope it's not a bent crank! lol Once I get the saw running it doesn't have any abnormal vibrations or anything and seems to run OK, but it does seem like there is an air leak as the tune does not stay consistent. I have a tack mounted on the saw and during the few cuts I made I monitored the no load rpm's after this happened. The saw always ran and started awesome and the single event which made it run like it is now was when that chain was stretched super tight. Maybe it was just a coincidence and it's something else, but I find that hard to believe. I guess time will tell.

 

[zogger]

no, I know that's not it. When I tip the saw down it will noticeably bog and then speed up a good amount.

OK, another guess..busted AV someplace, moving the saw around moves the throttle.

 

[AKDoug]

I don't know squat about 346's, but there are plenty of saws out there that will tear or loosen their intake boots if you horse on them too hard getting them unstuck.

 

[mountainlake]

Another vote for the torn cab boot. steve

 

[nmurph]

The boots on these saws doesn't tear when you reef on the bar. Unlike Stihls, the carb/intake tract sits entirely inside the crankcase portion and doesn't rock or move when pressure is applied to the handle. My initial thought would be that you stretched an AV and it is putting pressure on the throttle linkage. But you saw it cranks and runs but won't hold a tune. That sounds like an air leak to me.

One far fetched scenario is that you pulled so hard on it that the throttle linkage pushed against the throttle rod and that pushed the carb sideways and caused it to tear the boot or stripped the threads of the manifold. The problem with this scenario is that there is a fair bit of slack in the linkage. I don't recall ever seeing a torn boot on these saws. I would check that the carb bolts are tight and that the holes aren't stripped.

 

[JRHAWK9]

I looked at the carb and intake and I didn't see anything noticeably loose. (btw, it has the full 359 carb and intake on it). I didn't reef on it that hard to damage the AV. I just pulled up on it and then pushed down on it.

It definitely seems like an air leak to me too. I'll take a closer look at the intake later when I get home. Thinking about it more it seems this may be the issue. If it was a cranks seal, won't the saw change rpm when turning from side to side? Mine doesn't do that, it changes rpm's from tipping it up and down....when holding it by the metal handle and not the rear handle. Everything is so tight in there it's hard to see much of anything. I could find one screw but could not see the other. How does one gain access to both carb screws in order to check to make sure they are tight? I know they screw into plastic, so one must be careful to not strip them out.

Looking at the IPL (attached), I understand the carb is sandwiched between two other pieces and then gets screwed together, but how does this assembly seal to the intake boot and plate thing? Is it just an interference fit or does the boot actually slide inside the plate thing and both get clamped to the cylinder? I ask because when I move the carb, this connection point seems to be the flex point. Everything from this point back is rigid.

 

[bluesportster02]

check and make sure your metal clamp is tight and then start it and move the carb around and see if it speeds up a little if yes thats your air leak

 

[bluesportster02]

could your low jet be to rich cousin fuel pooling and when you change the angle it speeds up

 

[JRHAWK9]

check and make sure your metal clamp is tight and then start it and move the carb around and see if it speeds up a little if yes thats your air leak

yeah, I planned on starting it tonight and moving the carb around to see if it changes rpm's. I already checked the metal clamp and it's on tight.

 

[SawTroll]

I guess it's possible you messed up the seal, or bent the crank. Never heard of this with a 346 though. Scott will get ya ironed out for sure.

My first thoughts as well + maybe torn AV mounts....

 

[JRHAWK9]

I've decided to just drop it off by Scott tonight. We have too much stuff going on and I won't have a lot of time to screw with it so I decided to let someone who has the proper equipment and knowledge look at it.

 

[Westboastfaller]

Ok, if someone changed the intake they can easily screw that up as its got the internal impulse that's a rubber over metal seal that fits inside , male to female and it could have very easily been pinch on instalment.
and could work for a while like it did. (You have to be sure when you install them, maybe a safe lubricant is best).
I've had every problem with the 57 & 46 imaginable.
you may be having two probs or this may be it.
You thought the linkage was moving as you turn it to the side?
well that's what was happing to me and it took some time to pinpoint it. It was likely the linkage was binding against the carb. It could be catching on the boot as it come from the body and the tank...I think I remember now!!!! I was going to mention mismatch parts, sounds like the problems as the linkages are slightly different but you can bend them and get the right throw but that linkage boots are different and I know I had to change that back and problem solved. Also the 57 intake I put on, I did have to grind a few places but I remember
there was also some throttle issues with bindage.
it may had been that plastic bracket that come of the manifold and come back over the adjuster on the carb I don't believe all the 46s had them so you could cut that off? as I do remember multiple clearance probs that were intermittent.
try with taking that linkage boot off first. The one I had on was I rigid one from a 51. I think you need the 57 one with that linkage. Just try with out one first.
Also the back of the linkage wears fast and could be an adding factor (usually just jams) some times you will see the linkage
move the carb and my need a bend or new one.

Lastly, if you are taking that carb off any time always release
the bottom rubber mount first and put it on the same, then a strait key is fine. I always put the throttle side on first all but
tight, then I can lift on the bracket ( if you didn't cut it off) to line up the strait wrench with the bolt head. you many have to move
it a little to line it. you will be able to judge by outer marks. as your clamping down the first bolt. DON'T tighten very much on the final either.
357-346....101

 

[nmurph]

?????????????????

 

[Westboastfaller]

?????? , I have had problems with the manifold on the
357 I few times when they got hot and it was acting like a 372 with the impulse line off but this seems like just a linkage issue as it been suggested. I have run into intermittent linkage issues myself and that seemed good on the bench. The 346 that I said with the 51 Linkage seale boot X 57 components may just had been sticking a slight bit causing it to race, so that would leave me to believe there COULD be a problem there as I would think the 346 and 51 are the same besides the ridgitity of the boot??? Very Possible
I just know I've assembled a few boxes of them, ran the 357 since 2002 in the north season and fixed at least 10 ..mainly 357 over the years that were sent out from the job and came back from the shop with the tag on them with the same problem. and not once were they brought back to me saying " its still doing the same thing. Don't recall sending my saws in in the last 20 years?
whether my theory is right or my terminology is right.
I get every bugs out of them every time.

 

[blsnelling]

Take the throttle linkage off the saw.