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It is weird, I assumed you knew, was that way for months. I never said anything, just figured you changed it.

LOL
Nope, its showed up white and blue like it is now for a good while.....on my side anyways! lol



Saw looks good Will, awaiting the wood video :msp_biggrin:.
 
Well, its set, tomorrow going to go cutting over at a friends that has a bunch of logs that need to be bucked up. We'll see if this thing makes any power or not, got a 28" bar on it Stihl Semi chisel and 8pin.
 
Sounds pretty good Will. Just out of curiosity, did you check the no load rpm's? and if so what's she turning?

Ya, the highest I saw was 14,500 so I richened it a little to just hit 14,000, after a few tanks it may loosen and the RPM's will likely creep up again, I don't like tuning on the ragged edge especially for break-in.
 
Well, its set, tomorrow going to go cutting over at a friends that has a bunch of logs that need to be bucked up. We'll see if this thing makes any power or not, got a 28" bar on it Stihl Semi chisel and 8pin.

Cool will,,, if it runs good,,, which i totally expect it will.... I hope ST will not get his panties in a wad over it being a bb kitted saw and not an OEM P/C,,,,, will,,,,, are you there will???????? :laugh:
 
Cool will,,, if it runs good,,, which i totally expect it will.... I hope ST will not get his panties in a wad over it being a bb kitted saw and not an OEM P/C,,,,, will,,,,, are you there will???????? :laugh:

Ya, I'm here. I can untie those panties of his. Funny, I got a good OEM cylinder right here and a new Meteor piston, waiting for something to put it in. I just felt like playing with a BB kit this go round. I already got one sweet running OEM 372.
 
Ya, the highest I saw was 14,500 so I richened it a little to just hit 14,000, after a few tanks it may loosen and the RPM's will likely creep up again, I don't like tuning on the ragged edge especially for break-in.

That's normally how I tune them at first. 14,500 is good, and it will likely have a pretty flat torque curve.. Good work!
 
I think 14,500 is a good work saw number. My 372 will still four stroke upwards of 15,000, but i font feel comfortable cutting any thing but cookies that lean.....and it seems to have a little more torque there.
 
Got the cutting done today. Saw ran real well, I wasn't too happy with the way my chains performed today:msp_sad: but I promised vids and they are uploading even if they arn't that good, if you listen at the end of the second I think you can me me grumbling and maybe a swear word, I apologize to those of you that have Virgin ears. :)

Here is a pic to start you off, this is all I cut today, some of the smaller stuff I cut with my 357.

attachment.php
 
Whats the deal pickle?????

your chains are usually scary fast??? glad to hear it ran good,, I knew it would!!!!

I dump sometimes you just have one of those days, twice I hit something and had to resharpen, the third time I hit something it really did in the chain, you can see at the end of one of the vids when I try to cut then just shut it down. The joys of thick Doug fir bark, I've seen rocks embedded in the bark, Doug for bark is just dusty dirty **** and real hard on chains.

Oh and after one tank the revs creeped up to 14,900, so had to richen it up some more, can't believe how much it loosened up after a tank.
 
Cool, ya they are a nice kit otherwise. I turned down the cylinder as much as I could, about .075-080", .030 popup.

I don't consider myself particularly math challenged but I'm really having a tough time getting my brain around how this worked out. To get the .030 popup, I'm figuring you must have removed .030 of material from the outside part of the piston crown, gaining an extra .030 of squish in the process. I understand dropping the cylinder by .075 made up for the gain in squish - but plus an extra .045. This is the part I'm not getting. Won't any amount taken from the jug greater than what is removed from the piston crown directly reduce your squish?

Maybe I've oversimplified what was done. I suppose it's possible to drop the outside of the crown to achieve the squish you want after trimming the cylinder, and then dropping the center of the piston crown to achieve the amount of popup you want. Just trying to understand, I've got AM cylinder with the tilted exhaust that I'd like to correct.

Dave
 
I don't consider myself particularly math challenged but I'm really having a tough time getting my brain around how this worked out. To get the .030 popup, I'm figuring you must have removed .030 of material from the outside part of the piston crown, gaining an extra .030 of squish in the process. I understand dropping the cylinder by .075 made up for the gain in squish - but plus an extra .045. This is the part I'm not getting. Won't any amount taken from the jug greater than what is removed from the piston crown directly reduce your squish?

Maybe I've oversimplified what was done. I suppose it's possible to drop the outside of the crown to achieve the squish you want after trimming the cylinder, and then dropping the center of the piston crown to achieve the amount of popup you want. Just trying to understand, I've got AM cylinder with the tilted exhaust that I'd like to correct.

Dave

Sorry don't know what I was thinking there. Don't know why I put .080 off the cylinder.

If you have a squish starting out at say .045, all 372's I've done are over .040, this BB was a little more at .045 I think, so now machine .030 off the piston that gives squish now of .075, now machine off .055 that gives you .020 squish.

I guess I just did the math too fast in my head with I was writing that and saw .075 and just wrote that without thinking of the final squish.
 

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