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Probably as low as I can get it after I clean up the exhaust port roof.

The saw presently has one of Matt's previous BB kits on it. It will be interesting to compare the two BB kits and see what is different.
 
Probably as low as I can get it after I clean up the exhaust port roof.

The saw presently has one of Matt's previous BB kits on it. It will be interesting to compare the two BB kits and see what is different.

Well depending on where the ex is, if your not raising the ex at all, then I wouldn't raise the transfers.
 
I'll have to wait and see what the timing is after I clean everything up.

What's the minimum blowdown you would suggest with the 372 or 372BB?
 
Thanks.

One of my concerns with BB kits is that the transfer ports are usually left over from the original model. Therefore, they don't flow enough for the new displacement. I think I may end up checking the area of the ports so I can do a time/area calculation for various RPMs.
 
Thanks.

One of my concerns with BB kits is that the transfer ports are usually left over from the original model. Therefore, they don't flow enough for the new displacement. I think I may end up checking the area of the ports so I can do a time/area calculation for various RPMs.

Sure, would be interesting to know. I never go that in depth. They definitely like the transfers opened up some, match up the lowers, and open the uppers, and smooth everything out.
 
I may be assuming something. Are the 372 ports the same as on the 365, or did the factory cast new transfer tunnels ect. for the 372.

Edit: Using the search function and looking at various threads, the 365 and 372 have the same timing - exhaust 161, intake 142, transfer 114. It appears the 372 jug is a 365 BB.

No wonder the 372 responds well to an increase in port area and or timing.

The difference between a 365's displacement of 65.1cc and the BB kit of 76.7cc is a 17.8% increase in displacement. The most desireable approach would be to widen the ports around 18% to get back to the factory designed time/area for this line of engines - even more if the cutting speed is to be increased.

Unlike Will, I can't work the upper transfers on the BB kit. I will have to do some calculating to see what timing I can use to arrive at the same time/area by cutting the piston crown. Whether or not the transfer tunnels can flow that opening would be the second question.

I knew I shouldn't have bought this saw, now I've got another project to complete.
 
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Terry, personally I don't open up the transfers at all. As far as I'm concerned these BB's don't suffer from "crowded" transfers like some BB's do. I've always been a velocity man, even with my Holdens and Chevy donks. I port match the lowers as best you possibly can. In the drive side transfers, the port is "pushed" in to clear the casing and creates a hump in the trans on that side. You can grind quite confidently inside to match the opposite side. Without upper trans/piston relief work you will find the saw very peaky. The blowdown increase in these with a widen only is substantial. They scream and would be fine for not so large softwood. Raising the uppers to suit your needs will give some excellent results. Another option is to use an 064 piston machined into a popup for a wider port and increased compression. Even better yet, shift the top ring pin to the centre for even more width and some more play with blowdown! :D I must get my butt into gear and do one of these kits Matt sent but I'm still waiting on parts. ####ing takes forever. The Chusky with kit piston is ex 158, trans 118, in 160. I will be bringing the ex and trans up a tad and a tad more width at the ex.

So what saw and where did it come from?
 
It's all Matt's fault, this is one of his Chinese saws that he had fixed up. He has the old style BB kit on it, the one with the black fins. It also has the new carb, big filter, big spikes, roller chain catcher, yadda, yadda - it should work out well as my bucking saw. I got a good deal on it (he may have been sippin' the furniture polish)

If the stock port numbers I got from the threads is correct, the stock 365/372 has 24 degrees of blowdown. Both Will and Andy indicate that the engine runs good down to 20 degrees. So with a bit of port work and trimming the piston crown, I may be able to get the transfer flow up closer to the factory design parameters for the original 365.

It's a half-azz approach to porting, but then we just had a thread where we were discussing hacks that port their own saws - must be some sort of syncronicity.

It would help if I could get ahold of a 365 jug, measure it up and then compute the time/area for say 10,000 rpm. Then I could change the displacement in the formula to 76.7cc and work back to see what the timing should be to arrive at the same time/area for 10,000 rpm. The alternative is to use Blair's figures of .0066 m/sec at the desired rpm.

However, before I go diving into the guts of this thing, I've got to spend some time filing the new chains to see what works best. Once I have maximised the potential the the chain, I can then work on the potential of the engine.
 
I wonder how he's going to respond to, "Randy told me you would be more than happy to get some modeling clay and work out the area, at BDC, of the exposed transfer port openings on your 365"?
 
You wouldn't want to trade that jug and piston for some furniture polish would you?

I'll send you a PM.
 
Got the saw mostly assembled today. Just waiting on a chain-brake lever and handle, and the front wrap handle, and the bar plate. That's it, then I can run it.
 
Put the new parts on the 372. You could of had this thing running in the time you took to get on the computer and send that message!
 
I tend to shrug a little each time I see the BB words, as the quality is lower than the OEM stuff, and I am not sure they make more power at all, despite the extra cc....:msp_rolleyes:
 
Put the new parts on the 372. You could of had this thing running in the time you took to get on the computer and send that message!

I'll do it tomorrow, and get it running.

I tend to shrug a little each time I see the BB words, as the quality is lower than the OEM stuff, and I am not sure they make more power at all, despite the extra cc....:msp_rolleyes:

AARRRGGG, I get tired of hearing this. I think I'm aware of the quality difference, but at less then 1/4 the cost it's fun to play with. And I'm not too worried about this being less power then stock OEM.
 
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