3rd Poulan 330, same exact problem!

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"Going lean out of the cut (slow to return to idle) I did experience. That was solved by tweaking the L screw just a tad richer."


Solves the lean problem coming out of the cut on mine as well, however, when it "settles down", it stalls out from being too rich, unless the idle speed is set unreasonably fast. Basically, it masks the problem, and points us in the right direction, but doesn't correct it......Cliff
 
Serial # tracking..

Mine is 2007 s/n# 07011D301393 only 12 units away from yours, Streblerm!

Haven't had enough run time to see if a problems exists, though.

Old51AVE :greenchainsaw:
 
I seen that one in the link I listed was gone, your welcome!

There are lots more of them out there if you know what your looking for.

Even though that said it was new, I would still check the diaphragms to be sure. Who knows how old that carb is.
 
Nice!

Now, what's the difference between this carb and the one on the saw? Same size just pre-EPA crap?

I have swapped mine out for good. The 49 is on my 330 and runs better than the 164. The linkages all are the same and the fuel inlet is a little different, and had to swap fuel lines also. It does run much better at idle and there may be just a slight loss at top end but I haven't run it enough to really test it. I did order a HDA-48 (15.06 venturi) for my 335 and I'm gonna try that one on it. Now the 335 has the same problems that the 330 used to have. I'm thinking the venturi is too big and the airflow is just too lazy at idle for the carb to have decent signal. If the 48 works out good on both saws the 330 will be wearing one soon also. I'm not trying to add fuel to the fire just trying to be honest about what I've found. I still think at $250 the saw is the best bargin out there.
 
I have swapped mine out for good. The 49 is on my 330 and runs better than the 164. The linkages all are the same and the fuel inlet is a little different, and had to swap fuel lines also. It does run much better at idle and there may be just a slight loss at top end but I haven't run it enough to really test it. I did order a HDA-48 (15.06 venturi) for my 335 and I'm gonna try that one on it. Now the 335 has the same problems that the 330 used to have. I'm thinking the venturi is too big and the airflow is just too lazy at idle for the carb to have decent signal. If the 48 works out good on both saws the 330 will be wearing one soon also. I'm not trying to add fuel to the fire just trying to be honest about what I've found. I still think at $250 the saw is the best bargin out there.

If this is the case, couldn't you just make a "restrictor plate" for the stock carb?
 
The HDA-49 carburetor showed up today. It's quite a bit different internally than the HDA-164.

Physically about the same size/shape, linkage, fuel and pulse line hook-ups are in the same location. The fuel inlet elbow is a LOT different in diameter. I removed the elbow from the 164 and had to drill a much larger hole in the 49 to accept it.

While the carb was apart to clean out the chips from the drilling operation, I double checked the gaskets, diaphram/needle height and blew out all the passages. This turned out to be a good move, as one of the factory drilling operations left a loose peice of metal in one of the ports.

In addition, the needle height was about .010" below flush with the casting.

The throttle bore and venturi area are quite a bit smaller, as mentioned. I also noticed that the idle feed hole is located right next to the off idle tranfer holes, and directly in line with them. All three holes are well lined up with the "notch" in the throttle plate. In contrast, the HDA-164 idle discharge hole is a LONG ways from the other holes, and offset slightly (we may be on to something here?).

The main fuel discharge hole is also flush with the inside of the casting, not a HUGE obstruction like the HDA-164 carb. (Another potential trouble spot)

Aside from having to drill the casting and replace the fuel inlet elbow, it bolted right on without a hitch, and we were up and running in a few minutes.

I made a few preliminary adjustments, then headed to the wood pile. I gave the saw plenty of warm up time, then started cross-cutting some huge chunks of Oak and Maple. I dialed in the "L" and "H" screws as I would any of my other saws, just a tad in the rich direction from the highest idle rpm until the engine just slowed/smoothed out every so slightly. I set the "H" for best power in the cut where it would still 4 stroke nicely at no load.

I cut for about 10 minutes, then let the saw idle for about 10 more minutes. Did some quick hits and it IMMEDIATELY returned to idle without all the acting lean/taking time to settle down nonsense.

I turned the saw over on each side, upside down, bar down, bar up, quickly to the right, quickly to the left, and it just continued to idle flawlessly.

It also does NOT exhibit a lean "tip-in" anymore, throttle response is fantastic, and it doesn't act lean at light/part throttle.

Ran out of daylight (well, actually headed to the woods for a few minutes of deer hunting), more testing to come. Right now, it's a completely different saw, idles down as low as you want it to. Does't try to stall out. No hunting at idle. Improved throttle response, and best part of all, it runs as good as, or even better at full throttle in the cut.......Cliff
 
I smooth the venturi on all my carbs right in the middle, there is usually a small machining step, its worth about .4-.5mm and a little bit of top end power. It might help since the 49 is about 4mm smaller.
 
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I realize from an earlier post of mine that the 330 and the 3300 are not the exact saw, but they do have the same displacement and piston/crank assy part number. The 3450 and 330 use the HDA 164 carbs, but the older design 3300 uses the HDA 49 carb. If you look at the parts diagrams of the 330 and the 3300, the 164 and 49 carbs look identical. I am surprised the 49 is different internally than the 164 as my guess would have been that the 164 is a 49 with limiter caps and perhaps internals that can tolerate some percentage of ethanol.

This, however, is good news and if it works-out the 49 may be a suitable replacement. Keep us posted. $199 plus a $50ish carb is still a very good deal.

Bill
 
The HDA-49 carburetor showed up today. It's quite a bit different internally than the HDA-164......Cliff

Sounds excellent. Where'd you get your carb/for how much?

If my saw starts acting up any more than it already is I will try muffler modding it, then a restrictor plate to increase velocity through the carb, if that doesn't do it I'll buy the 49 (assuming you continue having such great luck with it).
 
The HDA-49 was from E-Bay for $25.25, that included the shipping.

From what I can see, these carbs share little in common in the way they meter the fuel, but appear to be about the same as far as layout, replacment parts, etc.

I'm convinced at this point, that the HDA-164 is different for emission reasons, not for performance reasons. I don't like the HUGE protrusion into the venturi area from the high speed discharge nozzle. This would create a low pressure area on the back side of it, and it is in direct alignment with the idle and off idle discharge holes.

I also suspect that the location of the idle discharge hole is causing some of the lean conditions I had with all three saws. I've also never had a saw that had to have the idle set at fast as one of these to maintain a stable idle.

Good news for the saw with the new carburetor, it is lighting fast for throttle response, and very, very sensitive to mixture screw adjustments. One screwdriver blade movement of the "H" screw makes a considerable difference in the saws power/performance.

I noticed specifically with the 164 carb, that I could move the "H" screw 1/4 turn, then another 1/4 turn, with some change in how the saw ran, but not very much. There was a "range" of about 3/4 turns of the "H" screw from going lean in the cut to an acceptable amount of rpm's/4 stroking when the load was removed. This shows that the carburetors design does not have the signal strength to the main nozzle and/or the passages leading to the main nozzle could be conservative. Again, this is probably for emission reasons, not to better the saws performance anyplace.

Anyhow, I'm glad to report a positive improvment in the saws performance, and the idle problem appears to be completely solved. Now the saw will take a place in the line-up, and we'll run the crap out of it to see what it's made of! Time permitting, I'll run it against my Husqvarna 55 and Echo CS-510, and report on how well it does?......Cliff
 
reassuring!

dude,
i have a NOS walby 49 that is shipping to me as i type.
i don't even own the 330 but i am glad that yours settled down with that carb.
the 49 will be dropped in to my 3300-family poulan with a 3750 P/C.

if it worked well for yours, it just might work well for mine. ;)
 
dude,
i have a NOS walby 49 that is shipping to me as i type.
i don't even own the 330 but i am glad that yours settled down with that carb.
the 49 will be dropped in to my 3300-family poulan with a 3750 P/C.

if it worked well for yours, it just might work well for mine. ;)

The 3300 series should have had a HDA-49 on it to begin with.

If your thinking a 3750 P/C, beware it may not be a direct fit. The 3450/3750 330/380 are close kin to the 3300 series there maybe a diffence on the intake side for the newer style air filtration set up.

I'm just guessing right now but I will compare my 330 and 365 closer this weekend if you want me to.

I'm almost certain that the 365 P/C is a direct swap on your saw though.
 
Cliff, before I posted the link to that carb I was going to buy it for myself just to have because it was a good price.

I have to say now that if I have to buy one for $50 that it will be worth it just because it made you happy!

I was sure that the 49 carb would work fine on your 330 because my 60cc 365 runs really well with it stock.

My 330 runs fine so I see no need to change any carbs on it although if someone else does and wants to send me a HDA 164 for me to try on my 365 I think that it maybe interesting.
 
The 3300 series should have had a HDA-49 on it to begin with.

If your thinking a 3750 P/C, beware it may not be a direct fit. The 3450/3750 330/380 are close kin to the 3300 series there maybe a diffence on the intake side for the newer style air filtration set up.

I'm just guessing right now but I will compare my 330 and 365 closer this weekend if you want me to.

I'm almost certain that the 365 P/C is a direct swap on your saw though.

yup, the 49 was sposed to be on the 3300 type saw i have but it was missing. i commented to cliff i was glad it worked well on his saw because his is 53cc and i want to go to 60cc. close enough for me!

i am hoping the 3750 will go. i have already bought the cyl, but i have not secured a piston yet. cyl will be here in a few days. the price was right so i nabbed it.
if it does have a different intake... whats the worst that could happen?
could i make it work? i would appreciate your comparo (but don't go to any trouble).
leaping before looking = bad. :cry:
 
The 3300 series should have had a HDA-49 on it to begin with.

If your thinking a 3750 P/C, beware it may not be a direct fit. The 3450/3750 330/380 are close kin to the 3300 series there maybe a diffence on the intake side for the newer style air filtration set up.

I'm just guessing right now but I will compare my 330 and 365 closer this weekend if you want me to.

I'm almost certain that the 365 P/C is a direct swap on your saw though.

Mark,
The best I can tell, some of the differences between the two are as follows

335-- 2 thin ring piston, straight exaust port, HDA 49 carb, screen air fillter, and no chain brake

330-- 1 thick ring piston, steel insert in exaust port, HDA 164 carb, felt air filter, and chain brake.
There may be more things but these are what I have found so far.
 
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