3rd Poulan 330, same exact problem!

[Modifiedmark]

yup, the 49 was sposed to be on the 3300 type saw i have but it was missing. i commented to cliff i was glad it worked well on his saw because his is 53cc and i want to go to 60cc. close enough for me!

i am hoping the 3750 will go. i have already bought the cyl, but i have not secured a piston yet. cyl will be here in a few days. the price was right so i nabbed it.
if it does have a different intake... whats the worst that could happen?
could i make it work? i would appreciate your comparo (but don't go to any trouble).
leaping before looking = bad.

I'll try to look closer this weekend. Worse case is you need the 380 style covers, intake and filter setup.

I could be wrong also, just going on a hunch.

Just been working too much overtime to check.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Mark,
The best I can tell, some of the differences between the two are as follows

335 330
2 thin ring piston 1 thick ring piston
straight exaust port steel insert in exaust port
HDA 49 HDA 164
screen air filter felt air filter
no chain brake chain brake
There may be more things but these are what I have found so far.

Well the top covers are differnt as well as the whole filter mounting setup as well.

Carb boot is different also, thats what has me guessing the intake of the cyl may be also.

 

[Cliff R]

"did the HDA-49 carb need to be modded in anyway to fit the 330?"

Yes, the fuel intake elbow was way too small on the HDA-49. I removed the fitting from the HDA-164, measured the diameter of the inlet, and drilled the HDA-49 carb to accept it with a slight interference fit......Cliff

 

[barneyrb]

"did the HDA-49 carb need to be modded in anyway to fit the 330?"

Yes, the fuel intake elbow was way too small on the HDA-49. I removed the fitting from the HDA-164, measured the diameter of the inlet, and drilled the HDA-49 carb to accept it with a slight interference fit......Cliff

I installed a fuel line to fit the carb on mine as I'm not comfortable drilling carbs.

 

[volks-man]

hijacking in progress

:arg:

If your thinking a 3750 P/C, beware it may not be a direct fit. The 3450/3750 330/380 are close kin to the 3300 series there maybe a diffence on the intake side for the newer style air filtration set up.

I'll try to look closer this weekend. Worse case is you need the 380 style covers, intake and filter setup.

I could be wrong also, just going on a hunch.

Well the top covers are differnt as well as the whole filter mounting setup as well.

Carb boot is different also, thats what has me guessing the intake of the cyl may be also.

mark.
you are correct that the 3750 cyl is not a direct swap for the old 3300 type saws.

minor differences:
approx 3/16 taller.
3750 cyl has an impulse bung on it.
front to rear the cylinder mount holes are spaced 3/4mm further.

major difference:
side to side cylinder mount holes are 3mm further apart.

the intake is the same size and in same place and the old intake boot fits perfectly. top cover still fits though it is slightly closer to cyl. might not hurt anything as the air may just gain a little velocity past the fins.
i bolted the cylinder down along one side on a hunch. although the srews touch the sides of the cyl holes, they still tighten fully.

so, 1.5mm off the inside of the cyl mount holes (side to side), just touch the mounting holes fore and aft, plug the impulse bung on the cylinder, and i'll be in business.

note to self: in the future, listen to mark!

 

[Cliff R]

Put another tank thru the 330 late this afternoon. No issues anyplace, never tried to stall, hunt at idle, or act lean anyplace. I'd say we nailed this one down.

I really ran the saw hard today, cutting up some BIG chunks of hardwood on the woodpile, cross-cutting, etc. If the smaller carb took any power away from it, I certainly don't notice it. If anything, throttle response is improved, and it revs up faster with the smaller carb on it.....Cliff

 

[Modifiedmark]

:arg:





mark.
you are correct that the 3750 cyl is not a direct swap for the old 3300 type saws.

minor differences:
approx 3/16 taller.
3750 cyl has an impulse bung on it.
front to rear the cylinder mount holes are spaced 3/4mm further.

major difference:
side to side cylinder mount holes are 3mm further apart.

the intake is the same size and in same place and the old intake boot fits perfectly. top cover still fits though it is slightly closer to cyl. might not hurt anything as the air may just gain a little velocity past the fins.
i bolted the cylinder down along one side on a hunch. although the srews touch the sides of the cyl holes, they still tighten fully.

so, 1.5mm off the inside of the cyl mount holes (side to side), just touch the mounting holes fore and aft, plug the impulse bung on the cylinder, and i'll be in business.

note to self: in the future, listen to mark!

Sorry but I had a hunch that this would not be the best swap.

Are you going to order the 530069487 gaskit kit for this thing? Its less then $6 so I figured you might just get the kit.

If you do, let me know if there are more then 1 base gasket included with that set.

I'm thinking there may be since its listed for so many saws.

 

[Banshee]

Put another tank thru the 330 late this afternoon. No issues anyplace, never tried to stall, hunt at idle, or act lean anyplace. I'd say we nailed this one down.

I really ran the saw hard today, cutting up some BIG chunks of hardwood on the woodpile, cross-cutting, etc. If the smaller carb took any power away from it, I certainly don't notice it. If anything, throttle response is improved, and it revs up faster with the smaller carb on it.....Cliff

What is the total dollar amount you have in this saw now? And in your opinion is the saw a good deal for this amount?

I have 280, with mods, in mine and love it. I think it's a very good deal at 280.

 

[Cliff R]

I'm out $199 plus tax, and $25 for the carb. Quite a bit of time in it, trying to figure out the problem(s). The carb isn't a simple bolt on deal either, had to drill it with a precision drill bit to press fit the fuel inlet elbow from the original carburetor. Most folks aren't going to be able to do this, or at least have to buy a set of 1-60 drillbits.

I also converted a Husqvarna 262XP 18" bar for it, which is much better than the 22" deal it shows up with. Even if you don't go to a smaller bar, the chain it shows up with is next to useless, so another $20 or so for a chain.

Some folks may not want to deal with all this nonsense and just crank the idle speed till the engine is up against the clutch and just deal with it. It's be an OK saw if that's all you did, but I can't say that it's really any kind of "scream-in" deal considering what I've had to do to get it to where I'm happy with it.....Cliff

 

[volks-man]

Sorry but I had a hunch that this would not be the best swap.

Are you going to order the 530069487 gaskit kit for this thing? Its less then $6 so I figured you might just get the kit.

If you do, let me know if there are more then 1 base gasket included with that set.

I'm thinking there may be since its listed for so many saws.

maybe. if i ever get the piston, i will slap it together sans gasket and see what the squish is. if i can get by without a gasket all together then, no.
if it needs some space then most likely i will be making a gasket for it.

what i don't get is the hole spacing. 3750 must be a different case too? no matter. my handy, dandy, carbide, port modifier will cut the cyl holes fast and clean.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I'm out $199 plus tax, and $25 for the carb. Quite a bit of time in it, trying to figure out the problem(s). The carb isn't a simple bolt on deal either, had to drill it with a precision drill bit to press fit the fuel inlet elbow from the original carburetor. Most folks aren't going to be able to do this, or at least have to buy a set of 1-60 drillbits...Cliff

Your getting to be quite the drama queen here lately Cliff. The carb swap is a simple bolt on if you don't want to reinvent the wheel doing it.

No pulling inlets or drilling or anything. Simply bolt on the carb, fish in a piece of 1/4" x 1/8" fuel line and put a new 1/8" filter on it.

Too simple you say? Sorry most folks would be able to do this.

Don't belive me? Here you go.

The 330 carb setup. Notice the bigger inlet on the 164 carb. Also notice the line from the tank.

Now here is the 49 carb on the Poulan Pro 365

Notice the smaller inlet on the carb, also notice the same hose routing. All you need is the same od hose with a smaller 1/8" id.

They say a picture is worth a thousand words. You really need to get over this 330 thing.

 

[barneyrb]

Your getting to be quite the drama queen here lately Cliff. The carb swap is a simple bolt on if you don't want to reinvent the wheel doing it.

No pulling inlets or drilling or anything. Simply bolt on the carb, fish in a piece of 1/4" x 1/8" fuel line and put a new 1/8" filter on it.

Too simple you say? Sorry most folks would be able to do this.

Don't belive me? Here you go.

The 330 carb setup. Notice the bigger inlet on the 164 carb. Also notice the line from the tank.

Now here is the 49 carb on the Poulan Pro 365

Notice the smaller inlet on the carb, also notice the same hose routing. All you need is the same od hose with a smaller 1/8" id.

They say a picture is worth a thousand words. You really need to get over this 330 thing.

That's all I did when I swapped the carbs, just put a different line in. I just don't feel comfortable drilling carbs and fuel line is cheap anyway.

 

[Modifiedmark]

That's all I did when I swapped the carbs, just put a different line in. I just don't feel comfortable drilling carbs and fuel line is cheap anyway.

Really, I wouldnt want to drill it either. Why would you anyway? There's no need for a bigger then 1/8" line on it anyway.

 

[Cliff R]

Mark, I'm sure that you are capable of posting usable/accurate information without all the "drama" and name calling. I did it the correct way, didn't say there wasn't another way that would work equally as well. Besides, how far do you have to drive to get another fuel line and filter assembly, and it cost money. I had several different sizes of fuel line in stock, just not what we needed, and I like the larger line anyhow, so I made the swap and zero cost, just a few minutes of my time instead......Cliff

 

[Modifiedmark]

Mark, I'm sure that you are capable of posting usable/accurate information without all the "drama" and name calling. I did it the correct way, didn't say there wasn't another way that would work equally as well. Besides, how far do you have to drive to get another fuel line and filter assembly, and it cost money. I had several different sizes of fuel line in stock, just not what we needed, and I like the larger line anyhow, so I made the swap and zero cost, just a few minutes of my time instead......Cliff

No you didn't say there was another way that would work. You did say this,

The carb isn't a simple bolt on deal either, had to drill it with a precision drill bit to press fit the fuel inlet elbow from the original carburetor. Most folks aren't going to be able to do this, or at least have to buy a set of 1-60 drillbits.

So I disagree with what you stated. To me it would be a simple bolt on deal and at least one other member agrees.

I'm still not convinced that the carb swap is needed and alot of others have more or less said the same thing.

I guess I will say I'm sorry for the Drama Queen thing, I'm used to hearing that from my daughter. Should have said the Drama King?

 

[Cliff R]

Mark, it is NOT a simple repair or a direct swap if you have to run out and buy parts. Don't try to down-play the fact that I fixed it correctly, by drilling a precision hole in the new carb and pressing in the original fitting from the HDA-164.

IF I would have had the smaller fuel line in stock, and a tank filter for it, that would have been a viable option. I actually had some of the smaller line, as a "kit" for an Echo blower, but I would have had to use an adapter in line after the tank. That is option #3 if someone wants to keep from having to fish a new fuel line up to the carb. An adapter also adds two additonal places to leak fuel or suck air, so IMHO the worst option for the swap.....Cliff

PS: As far as others not having problems, have you taken some sort of "pole" or ran a thread? Some folks just don't like to post, they just read the threads. I'm sure others can live with a saw that has to idle 2-3 times faster than it should to keep it from stalling out. I really could care less, 3 saws with the same problem 3 times is a 100 percent failure rate where I come from. I'm glad some of them are doing fine, and I'm happy for you that yours is OK. I'm not sure you would fess up if yours was acting up right to start with, your brand loyalty may not allow it....LOL....Cliff

 

[Modifiedmark]

Mark, it is NOT a simple repair or a direct swap if you have to run out and buy parts. Don't try to down-play the fact that I fixed it correctly, by drilling a precision hole in the new carb and pressing in the original fitting from the HDA-164.

IF I would have had the smaller fuel line in stock, and a tank filter for it, that would have been a viable option. I actually had some of the smaller line, as a "kit" for an Echo blower, but I would have had to use an adapter in line after the tank. That is option #3 if someone wants to keep from having to fish a new fuel line up to the carb. An adapter also adds two additonal places to leak fuel or suck air, so IMHO the worst option for the swap.....Cliff

PS: As far as others not having problems, have you taken some sort of "pole" or ran a thread? Some folks just don't like to post, they just read the threads. I'm sure others can live with a saw that has to idle 2-3 times faster than it should to keep it from stalling out. I really could care less, 3 saws with the same problem 3 times is a 100 percent failure rate where I come from. I'm glad some of them are doing fine, and I'm happy for you that yours is OK. I'm not sure you would fess up if yours was acting up right to start with, your brand loyalty may not allow it....LOL....Cliff

You don't know me that well then. I sure would tell everyone including you if mine had a problem with it!

It's not brand loyalty that I have, I just don't care for brand bashing when theres no reason for it.

 

[joecool85]

You don't know me that well then. I sure would tell everyone including you if mine had a problem with it!

It's not brand loyalty that I have, I just don't care for brand bashing when theres no reason for it.

Color me confused, but I didn't see any brand bashing going on here to begin with.

All I know is I like to cut wood :greenchainsaw:

 

[barneyrb]

As far as speed goes, I did find out that the 330 will run with a 55 rancher (open transfer model), Stihl 260, and it will not run with a 346NE. In 14" hardwood the 346 is about a second faster. But after all you are comparing a $200 saw to a $500 saw.

 

[mountainlake]

As far as speed goes, I did find out that the 330 will run with a 55 rancher (open transfer model), Stihl 260, and it will not run with a 346NE. In 14" hardwood the 346 is about a second faster. But after all you are comparing a $200 saw to a $500 saw.

Not a lot of difference in any of them, how many tanks do you have through your 330? Which carb is on it now? Steve