441 Limiter Cap Question - New saw pics

[PA Plumber]

I purchased a 441 today. The dealer removed the limiter cap from the Low idle side and the plastic spacer from between the limiter caps. He left the plastic cap in the H side.

Will this hurt anything? He told me the warranty would not be affected by it and the carb will not vibrate out of adjustment. Since he will be the one doing the warranty, I didn't make an issue about it.

Here are some pictures. The last is weight: full tanks of mix and bar oil, 25" bar and 33 RSC-84 chain.

 

[troutfisher]

Nice saw! Congrads.

 

[Lakeside53]

Tell your dealer to put a new cap back in... Walbro and Stihl both say the cap is needed to stop the screw from moving out. In 90 days your warranty is done and then what? I'd slice the cap-tab off my own saw, but I can't do that for a customer


Why did he need to take the L cap off anyhow? and... what plastic spacer? Hopefully he didn't pull out the alluminum insert around the limiter caps... If you're talking about the adjustment grommet, you want that back in to keep the crap out.

 

[PA Plumber]

Tell your dealer to put a new cap back in... Walbro and Stihl both say the cap is needed to stop the screw from moving out. In 90 days your warranty is done and then what? I'd slice the cap-tab off my own saw, but I can't do that for a customer


Why did he need to take the L cap off anyhow?

He said it allows the saw to "breathe better. I kept asking him about it but he wasn't able to explain it very well.

I didn't do a search, but is this something I could do fairly easily?

 

[Lakeside53]

yes, but why should you have to (put the cap etc back yourself)???

Breathe better???? hmmm...:monkey:

 

[PA Plumber]

I'll get you a digital picture. Give me a minute.

 

[PA Plumber]

Lakeside,
The first is of the grommet I think you are talking about. It is really hard to get a picture of the limiter caps.

When he pulled out the Low cap (screw and pliers) there was a skinny plastic piece the screw went into and a white plastic piece that looked like it was to go around both limiter caps.

I can disassemble this some more to get a better pic if you would like.

 

[441_Stihl]

now youre cooking with crisco

nice saw I love mine.You will love it 441

 

[Lakeside53]

Lakeside,
The first is of the grommet I think you are talking about. It is really hard to get a picture of the limiter caps.

When he pulled out the Low cap (screw and pliers) there was a skinny plastic piece the screw went into and a white plastic piece that looked like it was to go around both limiter caps.

I can disassemble this some more to get a better pic if you would like.

Used a screw/pliers and he's a Stihl dealer?

I've not seen the white piece you talk about. Any chance it was aluminium?? I'd make sure the H cap is still "limited". If not he's taken out the carb insert and there is nothing to stop the H rotating.

If it was my saw, it would be back togther... maybe missing the tab..

 

[PA Plumber]

Used a screw/pliers and he's a Stihl dealer?

I've not seen the white piece you talk about. Any chance it was aluminium?? I'd make sure the H cap is still "limited". If not he's taken you the carb insert and there is nothing to stop the H rotating.

If it was my saw, it would be back togther... maybe missing the tab..

Okay, I'm hopping in the truck to go get the part right now. I will post a picture of the part when I get back.

 

[PA Plumber]

Picture of Aluminum & limiter cap

Andy,
Good Call!!! He did take out the aluminum sleeve. Does it go back in cup up or down. Following is a pic of the parts.

 

[Lakeside53]

The taper is inwards and "doesn't" come out easily... tap it down with a flat end punch. Locking tab slots point down. Without that insert the tabs won't lock and there is nothing to stop the screws from vibrating loose. It came out because the tech was using a screw and lots of muscle. With the correct and cheap tool, the world works a lot better.

 

[PA Plumber]

The taper is inwards and "doesn't" come out easily... tap it down with a flat end punch. Locking tab slots point down. Without that insert the tabs won't lock and there is nothing to stop the screws from vibrating loose. It came out because the tech was using a screw and lots of muscle. With the correct and cheap tool, the world works a lot better.

If I understand you right, I installed the aluminum sleeve just the way it looks in my picture. I did not tap it with a punch and can turn it over if need be. The tabs/slots are on the flat side. When I pushed it in, it felt like it "locked" into place.

I really appreciate you taking the time to help with this. Thank you.

 

[stihl 440]

Congrats!

Congrats, on your new saw. Now all you got to do is run her, a lot. Get er' broke in.

 

[Lakeside53]

If I understand you right, I installed the aluminum sleeve just the way it looks in my picture. I did not tap it with a punch and can turn it over if need be. The tabs/slots are on the flat side. When I pushed it in, it felt like it "locked" into place.

I really appreciate you taking the time to help with this. Thank you.

I'm pretty sure it needs to be the other way! The flat side is outwards.

Remember, the 1/4 and 3/4 symbols are now meaningless. It's now 1 turn out for both as a starting position.

 

[PA Plumber]

I'm pretty sure it needs to be the other way! The flat side is outwards.

Remember, the 1/4 and 3/4 symbols are now meaningless. It's now 1 turn out for both as a starting postion.

I appreciate the heads up. I tried to use the guides but the saw wouldn't even start. at 1 out on the L I'm getting 2900 rpm idle and about 1 1/2 out on the H I'm getting 12000 rpms. It seems to be running well. I'll flip over that sleeve another day. No more time today to play Stihl Tech.

 

[Lakeside53]

Yes, the guides are "with limiter caps" preset. You are way rich at the top end, but better that than too lean. Be careful.. 13,500 is max and that's real "lean" (by design) on this machine.

 

[PA Plumber]

Yes, the guides are "with limiter caps" preset. You are way rich at the top end, but better that than too lean. Be careful.. 13,500 is max and that's real "lean" (by design) on this machine.

Time for bed, but that upside down aluminum sleeve was really bothering me. I turned it over and it definitely went together better that way. I lightly tapped the edges of the sleeve to help get it to seat.

Both limiter caps have the tabs removed.

The H limiter cap is very snug in the sleeve opening. The L limiter cap is a little loose. If I push a little too hard it slides through the sleeve and bottoms out on the L adjuster screw.

I may check with another Stihl dealer and just order another L cap. I now know what to do and would just like to replace it myself. That L limiter cap will probably be okay but I can't believe the caps are that expensive.

By the way I got a really good deal on the saw. That was before I knew I would be going through all of this. I have learned something and still believe the fellow I bought the saw from is a nice guy. Just not very technically oriented.

 

[Lakeside53]

The caps are only 50 cents each, list. The cap is supposed to bottom out on the screws and end up about level with aluminium boss.

 

[PA Plumber]

The caps are only 50 cents each, list. The cap is supposed to bottom out on the screws and end up about level with aluminium boss.

On the new L limiter cap, is there a benefit cutting the tab? It seems like this adjustment should pretty much remain constant for the life of the saw. I can appreciate wanting the tab cut on the H adjuster though.