5/16” / 7.9mm round files on .404
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The tooth shape & angle you are producing is counterproductive to cutting HWD quickly, chain tooth shape has evolved from scratcher to the hook shape, you are going back the other way
Someone has never cut Australian hardwoods
I like this idea, and have a few chains that are half or little less then haft a cutter to go till they expire. May jump down a file size and see if I like the results. Good idea.
That clears it up for me. I was never that concerned with the angle of the cutting edge, just used the recommended file.
I know, some days as a contract faller l used to send 75m3 of quota logs to the millSomeone has never cut Australian hardwoods
Dennisthemenace
ArboristSite Operative
Of Australian woods in Australia?!
Dennisthemenace
ArboristSite Operative
I know you're probably right about reinventing the wheel but Footy season is finished and we gotta have something to think about! (Posted on the first, boring non footy Saturday lol)
Bwildered worked for hardwood mills as a cutter in Australia he's an old bushy has more hrs behind a saw than most. Hes a bit different yes but I've never met a bushy that wasn't in my time lol
Theory is great and all but this monster filed chain hasn't even hit wood yet bit early to be calling it a success maybe after a few hundred cubes has been cut.
I personally don't like big gullets on .404 chain cutting hard hardwoods I like the chips staying up flowing in the chain, big gullets just give the chips somewhere to pack hard. I've never had chip overload in the type of hardwoods I've cut but like said that's just my experience and preferences.
Theory is great and all but this monster filed chain hasn't even hit wood yet bit early to be calling it a success maybe after a few hundred cubes has been cut.
I personally don't like big gullets on .404 chain cutting hard hardwoods I like the chips staying up flowing in the chain, big gullets just give the chips somewhere to pack hard. I've never had chip overload in the type of hardwoods I've cut but like said that's just my experience and preferences.
If that is the case totally fair enough and I apologise! It’s the first time I have heard of an Aussi recommending reducing the cutting angle of chain, but I’m all ears to hear of his experience. Definitely not saying this chain / profile will be any good, but keen to try it.
I’ve done a little messing around with 60, 70 & 80 degrees using the FG2 for consistency in some pretty hard woods and after less than a tank the cutters on the 60 and 70 degree chains were preforming poorly to the point where self feeding was almost non existent. slower cutting speeds on the 80 but after a tank it was still going fairly ok. No sand or debris, just dry hard wood taking its toll. Since this I sold the FG2 and I haven’t gone back to that acute on anything that is dry and native, apart from Australian Cyprus actually, but that’s comparatively soft. If you have pics of your chains bewildered, I’d be really interested to see what you’re filing at.
one thing that is worth mentioning all those tests of me using different angles was 3/8 chain, not .404 and thus keen to see if actually taking the chain more acute on a bigger cutter results in a nicer combo of longevity and sharpness.
I’m also interested in your mention of not bothering with too much gullet removal, I’ll give it a go too.
Also @rogue60 you once shared a pic of full chisel .404, at the time you said it was working well in stringy bark with a bit more hook - more hook than you’d generally use on other woods, do you have a pic of the tooth profile you use in some of those videos where you’re chewing away with your 880 where you’re not cutting stringy bark ?!?
Australian hardwoods in Australia , I have a bush sawmill, dozer & 4wd tractor, the optimum cutting angle is achieved using the correct file size, the angle is always a comprise between staying sharp & cutting speed, you are reducing the angle so cutting speed will go down while the time between sharpening should increase, seeing you are using chisel chain there wouldn't be much in the latter, as it's the point of the tooth that is the most important part of the tooth and that is made up of 2 angles. The depth gauge is the most important thing when it comes to cutting speed & self feeding.
I would imagine with using an oversized file the sawdust would be finer and less coarse, which is a sign of poorer cutting
Have you got a picture of the profile of a tooth on one of your chain?
Talk about me now feeling like a d.i.c.k finding out you’re an old school aussi logger.. I thought you were either just use to cutting up woods in the states or winding me up initially! My mistake - I apologies!
No messing around there and it’s 3/8’s. You’re happy with the edge retention too? I’m guessing every tank of fuel you’d give it a quick file?
Dennisthemenace
ArboristSite Operative
Mr Bwildered is of course correct when he says sharpening is a trade off re time between sharpening longevity and speed of cuts. The pro blokes would know what they are cutting next week and adjust accordingly. ie Standing green? Heavy bark? Species? Fire? Even elevation above sea level in East Oz. Us firewood hacks also have dryness, time on the ground to consider sometimes.
Trial and error (and taking note of the more experienced) is the go for me.
Ps, tried some 1/4 filed 46rm in hard, dry, clean coastal grey box yesterday and didn't like it. Slow as a wet week but still cutting the same after 2 tanks of 661.Went back to what Mr Stihl suggested lol
Trial and error (and taking note of the more experienced) is the go for me.
Ps, tried some 1/4 filed 46rm in hard, dry, clean coastal grey box yesterday and didn't like it. Slow as a wet week but still cutting the same after 2 tanks of 661.Went back to what Mr Stihl suggested lol
