55 Rancher

[monaco]

Also:
Every few pulls of the started, it "grabs" hard like there's serious compression and I about yank my hand off, because it gets very hard to crank. I'm not used to that as my other husky (345) doesn't do it. Would that be an indicator of some issue?

 

[jakethesnake]

I have a 55 rancher that hard pull on the cord is "normal". They do that. Mine does Check the carb settings I love the rancher 55 they are light as can be. I have a couple better saws but that rancher is still my favorite

If it's got fire It's not getting fuel. Check the carburetor out

 

[jakethesnake]

My other husqys don't jerk hard as the 55 either

 

[calebng15]

Also might check your flywheel key. Make sure it is not sheared.

 

[dougand3]

+1 on try a new AM carb. ~$14 on ebay and don't have all the limiter crappola.

 

[monaco]

+1 on try a new AM carb. ~$14 on ebay and don't have all the limiter crappola.

Hey,
Got a link? I found whole carbs for $40 plus, but nothing as low as $14

 

[dougand3]

Search ebay "Husqvarna 55 carburetor"
An eg:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-WALBRO-...767822?hash=item51d65cf74e:g:Q~0AAOSwNSxVcqdw

 

[monaco]

Search ebay "Husqvarna 55 carburetor"
An eg:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-WALBRO-...767822?hash=item51d65cf74e:g:Q~0AAOSwNSxVcqdw

That is cheap. Mine has a Zama so I didn't think switching brands would be OK? The rebuild kit was about $10

 

[dougand3]

Fine to go from Zama to Walbro. I generally like Walbros better.

 

[jakethesnake]

You can switch

 

[dougand3]

These cheap ones are clones, stamped with Hunai or Walbei or some such. They'll say "replacement for Walbro WT-170". I've used 5 of them on Husky 55's with good results.

 

[calebng15]

Figured anything out yet?

 

[monaco]

Figured anything out yet?

Yeah - today was the day.
So I finally got the carb kit and new tank vent ($4, why not). Got everything installed, and put back together, and NOTHING.

So I put the old, original ignition coil on there, and bam. It starts now. The new igition coil must have been weak. Chinese Crap.

But the carb needs adjusted. I did some searches and figured out how to adjust the idle and Low needle - that's the easy part. But, sometimes it'll still die, and then it's like I have to adjust the idle speed again. Also: When I rev, it bogs down a bit right at the beginning of the rev.

I assume I have a high needle adjustment problem?

 

[calebng15]

I would start with turning in the L screw 1/8 of a turn. Leaning it out in other words. That should take care of you bogging down when you rev it. Might have to do it twice. That might take care of you dying problem also.

 

[monaco]

I would start with turning in the L screw 1/8 of a turn. Leaning it out in other words. That should take care of you bogging down when you rev it. Might have to do it twice. That might take care of you dying problem also.

Thanks - gonna give that a try

 

[procarbine2k1]

You may need to go counter clockwise on the L speed. Sounds like it could be a little on the lean side to me, but that's just my .02.

 

[monaco]

I'll make a little video if I still can't figure it out tomorrow.

 

[monaco]

I think I have it. After warming it up, I reset the L screw, basically turning it inward until it started slowing down, then back out past the "peak" where it ran faster and slower again, then I split the difference, basically having the idle at top speed (as I understand you're supposed to do.)

Then I backed it out 1/8 turn instead of leaving it at it's "peak."

Going to let it cool off them test it fresh again in a bit

 

[monaco]

So just then I think I have it all set, I go cut some wood. After about three or four cuts, when the saw is all hot, the idle is somehow no longer sufficient to keep it running, and it dies. So I start all over again on the setting screws, until I'm out of strength to start it up anymore. Any ideas?

 

[calebng15]

You don't need to screw in you LA screw a little do you? Should be able to turn that screw in till the chain starts to move, then back till the chain is at a standstill.