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Ash is prone to barber-chair ... technique developed is chain tightened 1 foot above face - cut ... maybe not best idear to try and “outrace” the barber-chair - eventually you will encounter a tree that you will not beat especially with Ash

I do production cutting I had to haul a chain and binder through our steep ground with all brush we have I wouldn’t get anything done. There’s ways to get it down with out chairing that east coast cutters don’t do.


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I do production cutting I had to haul a chain and binder through our steep ground with all brush we have I wouldn’t get anything done. There’s ways to get it down with out chairing that east coast cutters don’t do.


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I’m listening ... you must understand first that we are talking dead ash that has been decimated by the EAB or emerald ash-borer ; an invasive species with no predators ... they bore into the tree which disrupts the trees ability to sustain itself eventually killing it ... if left to fester the tree becomes unpredictable especially with a leaning crown ... ok I’m done
 
I do production cutting I had to haul a chain and binder through our steep ground with all brush we have I wouldn’t get anything done. There’s ways to get it down with out chairing that east coast cutters don’t do.


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Some folks from the southeast can cut ash without busting it too. ;) And that's without using a chain and binders too.
 
Some folks from the southeast can cut ash without busting it too. ;) And that's without using a chain and binders too.
Yah what condition ? If it’s alive than ... if it’s dead and has been festering look out
 
I’m listening ... you must understand first that we are talking dead ash that has been decimated by the EAB or emerald ash-borer ; an invasive species with no predators ... they bore into the tree which disrupts the trees ability to sustain itself eventually killing it ... if left to fester the tree becomes unpredictable especially with a leaning crown ... ok I’m done

You can walk a dead tree around a little practice in how a face is set up helps. Red alder is a different animal you look at them wrong and they’ll chair on you one of the biggest problems with them is they follow the hillsides instead of straight up like a Doug fir they can be parallel to the hillside.


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Ok Frank, I will try to answer you. I don't have mspaint to draw a pretty picture so its going to be long winded. Start with the bottom cut on the notch side. And this is where using a normal 20 in bar is way better than a bar that reaches all the way across the stump. Cut around on the off side with the powerhead dead center the direction you will set the notch as far as you dare. Then come around to the near side cutting the heart first then cut around that side until the tree starts to set down on you. Pull out, back up on that near side within about 4 inches of the trigger side and bore straight in. Start working that cut back to the front, boring in, pulling out, torqueing the bar to widen the cut, until you cut into the front cut. Set your felling notch smaller than normal. Walk around the tree to the off side and using the back of the bar bore into it the same way you did the other side. If you do this right, by the time you are done your trigger will only be a couple inches thick. Go back to the "safe" side and start working at the sides of your trigger until it either goes or you've got a 2x2 in square holding the tree up. Step to the side and cut the trigger. I AM NOT ADVOCATING THIS STYLE OF CUTTING FOR ANYBODY EXCEPT MYSELF! THIS IS WHAT WORKS FOR ME AFTER SPENDING 35 YEARS IN THE WOODS
 
15 years that's crazy. I've seen 390 not last 6 months, but some just won't die, lots of things factor into that though.

That's one monster of a machine, looks like fun.

It’s a thinning machine in 25 year old Doug fir mainly.

0bca41e0417249e2ae789faf33db59d5.jpg
that 385 spent a lot of time in wood like this.


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No smart answers either please Frank. It took me longer to type all that out than it takes me to cut the tree I described. Living or dead trees doesn't make much difference. The dead ones just snap off the stump sooner. If you bust a normal ash, you did something wrong. With that said, the last saw I crushed (Ive only destroyed 3 I think) was in an ash that I was trying to make go where it didn't want to go and my trigger pulled up the roots instead of snapping and the roots took my saw with them.
 
Skeans, do you typically jack a lot of timber? Ive never cut using that procedure. If I need it to go somewhere that it doesn't want to, we usually put a cable in them and pull them with a machine. I spent 3 days last week cutting around powerlines and houses but I had climbers on site to set my cables for me. Ive got several more to do that way tomorrow too if it doesn't rain me out!
 
Skeans, do you typically jack a lot of timber? Ive never cut using that procedure. If I need it to go somewhere that it doesn't want to, we usually put a cable in them and pull them with a machine. I spent 3 days last week cutting around powerlines and houses but I had climbers on site to set my cables for me. Ive got several more to do that way tomorrow too if it doesn't rain me out!

That isn’t for a jack it’s a block face they really help control the timber, that stick made over 200’ of logs.
91db7e5278796678f14b6e19f055109a.jpg

Same patch of wood to the left is the property line and to the rear is the line with a slight lean back.


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You can walk a dead tree around a little practice in how a face is set up helps. Red alder is a different animal you look at them wrong and they’ll chair on you one of the biggest problems with them is they follow the hillsides instead of straight up like a Doug fir they can be parallel to the hillside.


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We’ve been whacking with sledge listening ... rough estimate at best but something ...
 
We’ve been whacking with sledge listening ... rough estimate at best but something ...

Sledge? Pick up at the max a 4 lb axe 28” a wedge pouch and a belt give them a tap with the poll you can hear a sound enough dead tree you can swing and one that is punky that you face up with a small back cut and use a pusher.


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That isn’t for a jack it’s a block face they really help control the timber, that stick made over 200’ of logs.
91db7e5278796678f14b6e19f055109a.jpg

Same patch of wood to the left is the property line and to the rear is the line with a slight lean back.


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Hmm, so that cut out is your direction of fall? Unlike some people, I don't pretend to know it all, only what works for me. If that cut is the fall direction, in our type of timber you had better match the back cut with the bottom of that face cut or else its going to hang the step on the stump and split a grade hardwood tree like an acorn! I also see from your post that they use a different timber scale out there than they do here. Here that butt log would have well over 200 bd ft in it and the whole tree should be at least 700 ft
 
Right now most of the dead Ash is so far gone the holding wood is too weak and the trees have to be taken out from the top down.
Fortunately it hasn't got that bad here YET. Very rarely do I come across one that's beetle killed in fact. I looked at a tract a few months ago that's got some of the best ash Ive ever seen on it and the idiot that owns it still hasn't decided to cut! His wife wont let him cut it! I told him to bring her up there, show her one of the bigger ones and tell her to take 700 bucks out of her purse and burn it because that's what she is going to lose when that one tree dies. Theres probably 50 or more trees like that on just one little hillside too.
 
Hmm, so that cut out is your direction of fall? Unlike some people, I don't pretend to know it all, only what works for me. If that cut is the fall direction, in our type of timber you had better match the back cut with the bottom of that face cut or else its going to hang the step on the stump and split a grade hardwood tree like an acorn! I also see from your post that they use a different timber scale out there than they do here. Here that butt log would have well over 200 bd ft in it and the whole tree should be at least 700 ft

No that’s not the scale, I made 6 40’s out of it, the tree made over 200’ of logs not scale but actual footage. Yes that controls the direction, with a block I can pretty much nip it off the hinge once it’s started. With that style of face you wouldn’t want to cut it at the lower sight then you wouldn’t have control, with this face the fibers can bend and normally won’t rip them from the butt log.


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