61 to 272-clearance questions

[svk]

Has anyone drilled and tapped the old style base to accept a new style cover?

Secondly does anyone know offhand what size diameter metric screws these saws take for the top cover?

 

[cambl]

The old style cases (2 pc ign) don't have enough material to be able to drill and tap or helicoil. On the new style Jonsered cases there is enough material to drill and tap the left rear screw so that the new style 268/272 top cover will bolt on.

 

[svk]

The old style Husky case looks pretty wide, certainly should be enough to drill and tap?

 

[cambl]

Wide, yes, but thin. You could drill and tap, but there is not enough thickness for a heli-coil and the screw may strip after taking the top covet off a couple of times.

 

[Dieseldash]

Got the old saw back together tonight. I'm calling this build a 72XP now, even threw a sticker on it from the label maker. Back to the original theme of this thread the 52mm 272xp jug fits just fine under the grey top 61 cover. Used the original 61 muffler with a muff mod. Assembled w/o base gasket squish @ .024. Took .030 off the intake side piston skirt as suggested by Spike60. Using 272 intake block and carb. I've got a new style chain break side cover I might have to use for clearance of the decompression button. I like the looks of the old wire chain break on the old style saws better. This sucker's got some compression now though and the decomp could be useful. Feels like the starter ropes gonna snap w/o. Pretty sure this old Husky is gonna be a brute.

Seems like everything I touch on this thing is trashed. Most of the anti vibe bushings are shot. Trigger safety is busted and slight fuel leak from the tank. Has anyone tried using one of the Farmertec/Hutzl tank handle assy?

Should fire it up tomorrow and annoy my neighbors

 

[old 040]

Got the old saw back together tonight. I'm calling this build a 72XP now, even threw a sticker on it from the label maker. Back to the original theme of this thread the 52mm 272xp jug fits just fine under the grey top 61 cover. Used the original 61 muffler with a muff mod. Assembled w/o base gasket squish @ .024. Took .030 off the intake side piston skirt as suggested by Spike60. Using 272 intake block and carb. I've got a new style chain break side cover I might have to use for clearance of the decompression button. I like the looks of the old wire chain break on the old style saws better. This sucker's got some compression now though and the decomp could be useful. Feels like the starter ropes gonna snap w/o. Pretty sure this old Husky is gonna be a brute.

Seems like everything I touch on this thing is trashed. Most of the anti vibe bushings are shot. Trigger safety is busted and slight fuel leak from the tank. Has anyone tried using one of the Farmertec/Hutzl tank handle assy?

Should fire it up tomorrow and annoy my neighbors

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Where's the tank leaking at?, if it's the lower seam, I've used a soldering iron to carefully plastic weld the seam, it has worked well for me.....

 

[Dieseldash]

Where's the tank leaking at?, if it's the lower seam, I've used a soldering iron to carefully plastic weld the seam, it has worked well for me.....

Not sure where the leak is coming from, it is more of a seep and work bench has a bunch of fuel on it after a few hours. Might try the solder iron idea with an empty tank.

 

[heyduke]

That answers my question about the 61 top covers earlier today I guess?

The part number changed by 1991 week 7 (to fit the new case and maybe more), and then again in the 1993-09 IPL (likely to the orange one) - and then the illustration pictures in the IPLs fit

it could be that husky just wanted to use it's supply of grey plastic with the new dies and switched to orange after it was depleted. using one color of plastic likely reduced production costs.

 

[SawTroll]

it could be that husky just wanted to use it's supply of grey plastic with the new dies and switched to orange after it was depleted. using one color of plastic likely reduced production costs.

I believe it had more to do with their "policy" regarding saw colors at the time of most other changes (1991) - but of course I don't know that as a fact.

There were other rancher/semi-pro models (55, 51, 42 are those I remember right now) that also changed top covers from gray to orange at some point (and most "homeowner" models), but as of now I don't know exactly when - never really looked into it.

 

[Dieseldash]

Got the old saw running today. My 61 cuts with some serious authority now. Just setting the carb and did some test cuts I'd say it's stronger than my mint Jonsered 670WC. I'll try to get some video sometime in the next few weeks. Trying to get a bunch of wood cut before the grounds covered in snow.

 

[SawTroll]

Got the old saw running today. My 61 cuts with some serious authority now. Just setting the carb and did some test cuts I'd say it's stronger than my mint Jonsered 670WC. I'll try to get some video sometime in the next few weeks. Trying to get a bunch of wood cut before the grounds covered in snow.

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That likely means that something is wrong with your 670, unless you have made major changes to the 61?

 

[Dieseldash]

That likely means that something is wrong with your 670, unless you have made major changes to the 61?

Howdy Troll, this 61 one has had major changes as detailed previously in this thread. The intent of this build was to match a 670 and it seems to have done so and then some. I absolutely love the 670 btw.

I've spent some time in Sweden not so far from you. My families all from Umea and down in Varmland. Spent a few summers in my younger years staying with family. The cousins and uncles kept me busy cutting wood. Glad I got to run a Husqvarna in its native territory. I miss the beautiful forest in Scandinavia.

 

[SawTroll]

I see - went back and read about it!

 

[svk]

So here's my Frankensaw with the AM 272 cover (sans air horn) sitting on it.

In artificial light the color looks ridiculous. In natural light it's a decent match.

I'm tempted to drill small holes in the base for the two non matching holes and using self tapping screws. Wonder how long it would hold up?

 

[cambl]

I know this topic is about the 61 conversions, but the Jonsered 625 has been mentioned since it is a very similar saw other than the intake boot setup. Good reasons to convert the 625 to a 268/272 are: get rid of the obsolete intake boot, more power, and 625s can be picked up pretty cheap with often low hours since they were considered a "wood cutters" saw.

Here is one I am working on- a 1988 model with perfect original plastic and low hours. The pictures compare the OEM 625 cylinder to the Meteor 268 closed port cyl kit. The spark plug angle and height to the top fin are the same, but the plug sits about 3mm higher in the 268 cylinder.

I did a test fit today and there are no clearance issues with the original 625 top cover or air filter cover, so no need to switch to a grey 61 cover.

 

[SawTroll]

I'm surprised that Meteor offers a 50mm kit, as there really is no reason to not go directly to a 52mm one?

 

[Dieseldash]

I know this topic is about the 61 conversions, but the Jonsered 625 has been mentioned since it is a very similar saw other than the intake boot setup. Good reasons to convert the 625 to a 268/272 are: get rid of the obsolete intake boot, more power, and 625s can be picked up pretty cheap with often low hours since they were considered a "wood cutters" saw.

Here is one I am working on- a 1988 model with perfect original plastic and low hours. The pictures compare the OEM 625 cylinder to the Meteor 268 closed port cyl kit. The spark plug angle and height to the top fin are the same, but the plug sits about 3mm higher in the 268 cylinder.

I did a test fit today and there are no clearance issues with the original 625 top cover or air filter cover, so no need to switch to a grey 61 cover.

The 268 Meteor jug looks like the way to go on the Jonsereds saws so you can keep the stock black cover and filter. Wonder if your saw would be comparable to a 670 power wise now?

 

[SawTroll]

The 268 Meteor jug looks like the way to go on the Jonsereds saws so you can keep the stock black cover and filter. Wonder if your saw would be comparable to a 670 power wise now?

If a 268xp top end is compatible, a 272xp one also is. 266se/xp and 268xp ones aren't interchangeable though, despite both a 50mm, for the same "saw family" (different intakes are the reason for that - but the transfers also are much larger on the 268xp ones, and they make more power).

The power specs of the 670 varied with the version - but the Super II/Champ was rated at .1 kw more than the 268xp. The rating of the original 670 was the same as the late production (1985-1986) 266se and the 266xp. What I don't know is the rating of the 670 Super (not Super II).

I know that some doubt that the 670 Super II/Champ really made more power than the 268xp, and tend to agree, as I see no reason it should - but the fact is that the German test by DLG showed that the power rating of a late production Champ was an understatement. I haven't seen a similar test report on the 268xp though, likely because the model was discontinued some years earlier.

More important than that little "anecdote", I would always expect lower performance from an aftermarket top end, even if it is Meteor - unless it is "reworked" by an expert, and wasn't "over-ported" anywhere to start with.

 

[cambl]

Here is the 625/268 finished up. No clearance issues with the 50mm Meteor kit and was surprised that the 266 style air filter worked fine with the stock 625 air filter cover. Runs great, and a pretty easy conversion.

 

[Dieseldash]

Nice looking saw! How's it run is the big question?