61 to 272-clearance questions

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
If the bolt holes on the top cover in these pics line up with the holes in the case it is a late style, single ign case. The recoils will fit either case, late or early and vise-versa. The location of the recoil cover screws did not with the case change (strangely) The only way I can tell the early from late saws is the fact that on the late case/cover the forward lt is aft of the front recoil mount screw...the early case/cover the cover screw is forward of this screw. So this cover could not be a 266 cover as the 266 never got the one piece ign.......I would guess it is a late 61 cover. It seems that the 61 was very late getting the case change.....the first saw I know of to come with the single ign. was the 268XP and that was in 87-88...Jonsered continued the two piece on into the early 90s....I have no idea when the 61 got updated.


Looks like it was by 1991 week 7/8 the 61 got most of the updates, based on the IPLs and some additional info from @spike60 - but the top covers didn't become orange before in the 1993-09 IPL.
 
Looks like it was by 1991 week 7/8 the 61 got most of the updates, based on the IPLs and some additional info from @spike60 - but the top covers didn't become orange before in the 1993-09 IPL.


I see.....so there are a certain number of gray tops out there that fit the new style cases I take it?
 
Ahhh...well that's good info to have....don't think I have actually seen one.

That's the 61 I posted a pic of a few pages back. Post 51 maybe. Really don't see them too often. That saw is a customer's saw that he brought in for a service. Keeps it in a case, which helps keep it that clean.
 
Pickup, primary, trigger, cdi, lots of different names that are used. I'm not aware of any way to bench test the primary unit, and they rarely fail, but here is how you can test the coil:

Resistance reading on the primary side (two small wires) will be roughly 0.7 ohms. Reading on the secondary side (yellow wire to spark plug lead) will be roughly 1.4 KOhms. Neither reading should be zero or infinity. This only tells you that the coils does not have a open winding or a dead short, but it could still have problems when it is on a running saw and warm. Your reading may vary with the tester, age of the coil, etc. Hope that helps.

View attachment 536743 View attachment 536744 View attachment 536745
nice illustrations for us novices ,thanks
 
A few pages back I mentioned my tank handle assymbly was pretty much shot. Needed new anti-vibe bushings and the trigger safety parts were missing. Had a small leak somewhere too. So I thought I'd give one of those Huztl aftermarket tanks a shot for $24. Fit wise it was a good copy and the color seems kinda close too. The seems on the plastic needed to be cleaned up and smoothed out. Good news is that it's not leaking and the anti vibes are nice. The bad news is that the trigger assymbly won't engage for the high idle set. The other issue is that the saw doesn't want to idle now like it's running out of fuel. I made the mistake of just using the installed Chicom fuel line and filter. So I'm gonna get to pull it all back apart and put better fuel line on and figure out the trigger. You seem to get exactly what you pay for........

My Husky 72XP project is looking good:

image.png
 
A few pages back I mentioned my tank handle assymbly was pretty much shot. Needed new anti-vibe bushings and the trigger safety parts were missing. Had a small leak somewhere too. So I thought I'd give one of those Huztl aftermarket tanks a shot for $24. Fit wise it was a good copy and the color seems kinda close too. The seems on the plastic needed to be cleaned up and smoothed out. Good news is that it's not leaking and the anti vibes are nice. The bad news is that the trigger assymbly won't engage for the high idle set. The other issue is that the saw doesn't want to idle now like it's running out of fuel. I made the mistake of just using the installed Chicom fuel line and filter. So I'm gonna get to pull it all back apart and put better fuel line on and figure out the trigger. You seem to get exactly what you pay for........

My Husky 72XP project is looking good:

View attachment 537801


Sounds like the common issues with aftermarket tank assamblys - and then they usually are heavier than the originals as well, and made from inferior plastic. You may need to install some OEM trigger assembly parts - it wouldn't be the first time.
 
Here's a bit more info on the red headed cousins. Again, thanks Robin @Cantdog and others for your help.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/jonsered-672-conversion-could-use-some-help.269251/

I've since acquired an early 630 and a 670 jug. The 625 case is drilled for the rubber intake partition so I installed the 670 jug on my 625. The 272xp cylinder got moved to the 630 chassis. There were no top cover or spark plug clearance issues with either, although the 630 covers were purchased from bplust, and may have been from a 625, 630, or 670. Here's the 630/272xp.

CAUTION: Whole lotta sexy bout to happen up in here
20160515_162358.jpg 20160515_162410.jpg 20160515_162430.jpg 20160515_162705.jpg
 
Here's a bit more info on the red headed cousins. Again, thanks Robin @Cantdog and others for your help.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/jonsered-672-conversion-could-use-some-help.269251/

I've since acquired an early 630 and a 670 jug. The 625 case is drilled for the rubber intake partition so I installed the 670 jug on my 625. The 272xp cylinder got moved to the 630 chassis. There were no top cover or spark plug clearance issues with either, although the 630 covers were purchased from bplust, and may have been from a 625, 630, or 670. Here's the 630/272xp.

CAUTION: Whole lotta sexy bout to happen up in here
View attachment 554988 View attachment 554989 View attachment 554990 View attachment 554991

Nice! Got one question though.....you're running the 670 carb set up with the top cover impulse....where are you picking that up on a 272XP cyl as they run the regular Husky internal impulse corridor through the isolation block?
 
Nice! Got one question though.....you're running the 670 carb set up with the top cover impulse....where are you picking that up on a 272XP cyl as they run the regular Husky internal impulse corridor through the isolation block?
Same as a 625. Drilled a transfer port. I was chasing vacuum leaks and wanted to rule out the block impulse.
 
Same as a 625. Drilled a transfer port. I was chasing vacuum leaks and wanted to rule out the block impulse.

Ok...cool.....that works. I have done it a couple different ways and was wondering what your method was. I think the method I've found to be the easiest and most functional/durable is to bore the carb body to pick up the internal impulse. There is a hole already started in the mounting face so you simply have to continue it into the cavity in the carb body which is where the top mounted impulse located and swap out the Tilly carb top cover to a non-impulse type. Though they work fine I've never really cared for intake boots and external impulse lines as they will inevitably will cause problems sooner or later. Did you find your vac leak?
 
Here is a pic of another way of doing the same thing......I tapped the impulse corridor in the block and used the fuel inlet nipple from an old 49SP Tilly....

The second pic shows the carb face and the already started hole that needs to be continued as stated in the earlier post.....It is located about 1:00 in the pic.....sorry I don't have any pics of the process but it's pretty self-explanatory.

630 Build 012.jpg 630 Build 019.jpg
 
Yes it was a twin coil model and I believe you are correct that the later single coil top covers will work with a 52 mm cyl. I have one in the "project" section that is slated to be a "672"...I did consider painting the top...but it would only fool folks that didn't know better....and Silver....well.....LOL!! Plus I prefer simply removing the Jonsered air box cover as opposed to the Husky system where the entire top must be removed to clean the filter.
So I went in the other direction on that saw.....I had a velocity stack from a 670 West Coast and a gray 61 top cover that was cracked in exactly the right place!! LOL!!
View attachment 529967 View attachment 529968 View attachment 529985 View attachment 529989
So cool Robin!! Your work is so clean.....whether wood working or saws! :clap: :rock:
 
Picked up this dusty but very gently used 61 on Sunday. Came with 12 spare chains!

To confirm: the grey top saws are one piece coil, correct?

IMG_1682.JPG

I'll probably keep this stock except for muffler mod and timing advance.
 
Nice!! No... the gray tops are generally the two piece coil saws.....though there were a limited number of gray tops that were made to fit the early run of single coil cases.

Yours is a two piece......the way I can tell is if you look at them recoil side to, the front cover mounting screw is forward of the upper left hand recoil cover screw placement. On the later one piece saws the top cover screw is aft of the recoil cover screw.......the recoil bolt pattern didn't change at the case change....all recoils will bolt up to all saws in the family.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top