cambl
ArboristSite Guru
I ran it yesterday, just for test and tune, and it pulls well. Needs some break-in time with some 20" fir logs!
61 to 272-clearance questions
- Thread starter spike60
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After consideration we decided to tap the old style case to accept screws for the new style cover. If it doesn't work long term we'll figure something else out.
This is the Chinese top cover that is decent in natural light but looks obnoxious in artificial light.
That is the bar I'm donating to 08f150's fundraiser. It's getting retired after today.
This is the Chinese top cover that is decent in natural light but looks obnoxious in artificial light.
That is the bar I'm donating to 08f150's fundraiser. It's getting retired after today.
Hey guys.
I appear to have a bad coil on my 266/272. With the two piece ignition on the older models is there a way to test and see which part is bad or do you replace the whole works?
I appear to have a bad coil on my 266/272. With the two piece ignition on the older models is there a way to test and see which part is bad or do you replace the whole works?
Dieseldash
ArboristSite Operative
I think they need to be replaced as a unit. First make sure the wires aren't grounding out anywhere between the coils and that the shut off switch isn't shorting. You can disconnect the shut off switch. I had to replace the wires on one of mine between the coils cause the insulation was breaking down and shorting out. The coils are no longer available from Husqvarna if I recall. Could be a plug wire issue as well where you might be able to get a replacement plug to wire boot end
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The after markets ones are available now and seem to be OK and rather inexpensive....I put one on a 266se a while back....it's at around 165 cord of 16" long stove wood......running fine....was just back to the shop for a new worm wheel and tune day before yesterday.
Thanks, I will check closer on those wires just to be sure. I had the recoil cover off and the little shroud but didn't notice anything. I also disconnected the kill switch and pulled the boot off and still nothing.
It was funny because it was a bear to start after normally starting well, cut well, but when I went to the other tree it was done for.
How inexpensive? I am already way over budget on this saw LOL
This 61 with 272 top suppose to be coming in to me. Looks like he put some kind of updated cover, muffler and I know he said intake.
SawTroll
Information Collector
....or it just is a post some time in 1993 61? There are signs that it isn't - but those signs could be caused by using older replacement parts (at least the starter cover is older, and the fuel cap looks older as well)....
Niko starter cover is original. Top cover has been replaced.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Serial number?
The orange top cover shouldn't fit on a 61 made before 1991 week 7 - but the starter cover is older than that?
This is according to IPLs and supplemental info on that model (61) alone - but the top cover could of course be from another model? Hard to imagine which one though, if it clears the taller muffler.
Actually, I think this is a 61 older than 1991, with a 266 top cover on it - but I didn't know that the tall muffler would fit under that top cover (I don't know it all, just trying to learn).
Could be the same deal as SVK did below VVVVV. As it looks like a china afm top in pic.
Saw still not in my hands so no #'s.
SawTroll
Information Collector
His top cover looks like a 268/272 one, yours doesn't (it just isn't).
Also, his top cover wouldn't fit the bolt holes of your case, if your starter cover is original, and it is a 61 - but a 266 one would.
That said, if the top cover of your saw is aftermarket, they could of course make it for any combination of bolt holes and muffler clearing they wanted to - I was basing my posts on OEM parts.
Aftermarket parts messes everything up in an historical perspective, unless everyone is anal about posting what is aftermarket - and they often aren't.
2 more shots hmmm missing that 272 hole I was used to seeing. Might be onto something Niko
SawTroll
Information Collector
That isn't an OEM 268/272 top cover - but it looks like a 1993-09 or later 61 top cover to me....
The starter cover of the saw doesn't fit with that dating though, and a 1993-09 (actually not the black 1991 week 7 one either) or later top cover wouldn't fit on any 61 that originally came with that starter cover.
If the bolt holes of the top cover and the case matches, I assume it is a 266 top cover (until proven wrong).
The serial number on the case would of course help in sorting out what is original and not.
Yeah that's different. Mine has the sude hole and we had to remove the tube to fit the older style air filter.
So I can get a Chinese coil for 12 bucks or domestic one for a bit more. But that's just the piece that the plug wire comes out of. What is the other piece called? Pickup?
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If the bolt holes on the top cover in these pics line up with the holes in the case it is a late style, single ign case. The recoils will fit either case, late or early and vise-versa. The location of the recoil cover screws did not with the case change (strangely) The only way I can tell the early from late saws is the fact that on the late case/cover the forward lt is aft of the front recoil mount screw...the early case/cover the cover screw is forward of this screw. So this cover could not be a 266 cover as the 266 never got the one piece ign.......I would guess it is a late 61 cover. It seems that the 61 was very late getting the case change.....the first saw I know of to come with the single ign. was the 268XP and that was in 87-88...Jonsered continued the two piece on into the early 90s....I have no idea when the 61 got updated.
cambl
ArboristSite Guru
Pickup, primary, trigger, cdi, lots of different names that are used. I'm not aware of any way to bench test the primary unit, and they rarely fail, but here is how you can test the coil:
Resistance reading on the primary side (two small wires) will be roughly 0.7 ohms. Reading on the secondary side (yellow wire to spark plug lead) will be roughly 1.4 KOhms. Neither reading should be zero or infinity. This only tells you that the coils does not have a open winding or a dead short, but it could still have problems when it is on a running saw and warm. Your reading may vary with the tester, age of the coil, etc. Hope that helps.
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