660 vs.394xp

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How does the rev limiting coil affect performance with the saw in a cut in decent sized wood? I can understand the tuning issues it can introduce, but figured once in wood it would not longer be a performance issue.


I agree, but we could be wrong - but I believe that Dean are thinking of modded saws........:D
 
395xp

If you think a 395 is sweat by itself, send that thing to DEAN. Hes the man. After he did a stage II to mine, its like like like i can't even explain it.
Its just bad AZZ. I don't grab any of my other saws. To go through a piece of wood that fast is nutz.
 
I was supposed to pick it up today after work,but another water main break but the squash to that.By the time I drive the backhoe back to the shop,its too late.I am going to pick it up tomorrow,and if it is not single digits,I am going to my neighbors log pile to run her.
 
How does the rev limiting coil affect performance with the saw in a cut in decent sized wood? I can understand the tuning issues it can introduce, but figured once in wood it would not longer be a performance issue.

you are very much correct on that. The problem is getting it set up with the coil is tough so that it runs good in the wood. I was talking modified and I usually find that the 385 runs it's best when it is modified to run at about 14,800 out of the cut.
 
you are very much correct on that. The problem is getting it set up with the coil is tough so that it runs good in the wood. I was talking modified and I usually find that the 385 runs it's best when it is modified to run at about 14,800 out of the cut.

Got it, that makes sense.

Maybe if I get a second 395 sometime I may try having it modded a bit so it will pull the really long bars a bit better. My stock 395 pulls a 42 okay in green wood as long as I use a fresh square ground chain, but I don't think it would quite do a 50 inch bar which I have an eye out for.

Really sharp chain key in both cases. (And I know the 3120 is really the right husky for a 50 inch bar.)

Extra noise is till what has been holding me back. I dream about more grunt without more noise, but maybe a dream is all it is....Ever stage II a husky and leave the muffler intact?
 
you are very much correct on that. The problem is getting it set up with the coil is tough so that it runs good in the wood. I was talking modified and I usually find that the 385 runs it's best when it is modified to run at about 14,800 out of the cut.

That makes sense as well,I can talk tuning all day,but,Here is what I am interested in....I am a professional,not a hobbyist and if I did this to one of my 385's how would it affect it in the long run.Would it shorten engine life?I ran both saws today(385 and MS650) and there is no doubt that the 650 kicks it's tail while both are in stock trim.I do like the 385.I haven't had a chance to try out a 390...I went straight to the 395
 
B Tuner, you really have to open up the muffler or you are just damming all your gains up. I suppose a bigger muffler could be built but then it would be in the way. It is really hard to get both power and quiet.

timberhauler, check out our website when you get the chance. We guarentee 30% more HP with out a loss of durability. Our guarentee is that one of our saws will last as long as a stock saw in your hands. We completely stand behind our work.
 
.... timberhauler, check out our website when you get the chance. We guarentee 30% more HP with out a loss of durability. Our guarentee is that one of our saws will last as long as a stock saw in your hands. We completely stand behind our work.

I believe you - I have never seen anything but positive rewievs on your work.... :)

:greenchainsaw:
 
B Tuner, you really have to open up the muffler or you are just damming all your gains up. I suppose a bigger muffler could be built but then it would be in the way. It is really hard to get both power and quiet.

timberhauler, check out our website when you get the chance. We guarentee 30% more HP with out a loss of durability. Our guarentee is that one of our saws will last as long as a stock saw in your hands. We completely stand behind our work.

Thanks man,I'll check you out and start playing with my chainsaws now.I've had to quit racing dirtbikes due to knee problems,so this might very well be my cure for the withdrawl I'm suffering from not being able to ride..I've got several other saws that are no longer in use that I am anxious to toy with...Thanks again.:greenchainsaw:
 
B Tuner, you really have to open up the muffler or you are just damming all your gains up. I suppose a bigger muffler could be built but then it would be in the way. It is really hard to get both power and quiet.

timberhauler, check out our website when you get the chance. We guarentee 30% more HP with out a loss of durability. Our guarentee is that one of our saws will last as long as a stock saw in your hands. We completely stand behind our work.

That's what I was afraid of, in terms of needing to open up the muffler.

What about the M_dsens "powertune" which they offer on a 385 that they say gives 10 to 15 more power and they don't modify the muffler at all?
 
I have not ran the 385 from Madsen's, so I am not willing to make any comments on their products.

When we build a saw we not only guarentee the power gain but also longevity. By opening up the saw for power you also gain the bennifit of extra cooling on your motor.
 
The Emperor of saws...

Ran her today on some of my neighbors skidded logs in the back.It was all I expected,amd more.The real suprise was the smoothness at WOT.The Husky chain is a non safety model, and it cut better once I took the rakers down a little.As it breaks in ,I expect it to wake up even more.I could only imagine what a muffler mod could do to it.
 
I have not ran the 385 from Madsen's, so I am not willing to make any comments on their products.

When we build a saw we not only guarentee the power gain but also longevity. By opening up the saw for power you also gain the bennifit of extra cooling on your motor.


I just used Madsens as an example. I was just trying to hear if you thought any gains at all could be gotten without opening up the muffler. Naturally gains would be reduced, but any gains at all possible?
 
Ran her today on some of my neighbors skidded logs in the back.It was all I expected,amd more.The real suprise was the smoothness at WOT.The Husky chain is a non safety model, and it cut better once I took the rakers down a little.As it breaks in ,I expect it to wake up even more.I could only imagine what a muffler mod could do to it.

Mine got even stronger over 15 to 20 tanks through it. Still as smooth now as when I bought it.

I don't find that much benefit from running depth gauges much lower than stock, but maybe that's me. Really sharp chain is the key, and seems like some sort of slight inefficiency is introduced when dropping gauges too much. From my background, I pay alot of attention to the actually shavings and cut surface I get. LIke a hand plane it tells you alot.
 
Mine got even stronger over 15 to 20 tanks through it. Still as smooth now as when I bought it.

I have lost counts on how many tanks of gas I've used,but I've ran about three gallons through one of mine,and there is a noticeable difference....Congrats,I hope you enjoy your new saw
 
Keith,

I'm considering the 395Xp as well. I don't cut nearly as much as many on the site, but when I do, I want it to be fun.

Any chance you could find a big piece of hardwood and run a few times between your 372, 7900, and 395? I'd love to see what the actual cut differences are with similar set-ups. I don't have a good feel for the actual time improvements and would feel better plopping down some cash if I knew the facts.
 
Keith,

I'm considering the 395Xp as well. I don't cut nearly as much as many on the site, but when I do, I want it to be fun.

Any chance you could find a big piece of hardwood and run a few times between your 372, 7900, and 395? I'd love to see what the actual cut differences are with similar set-ups. I don't have a good feel for the actual time improvements and would feel better plopping down some cash if I knew the facts.

You won't be disappointed with a 395
 
Investment

Keith,

I'm considering the 395Xp as well. I don't cut nearly as much as many on the site, but when I do, I want it to be fun.

Any chance you could find a big piece of hardwood and run a few times between your 372, 7900, and 395? I'd love to see what the actual cut differences are with similar set-ups. I don't have a good feel for the actual time improvements and would feel better plopping down some cash if I knew the facts.

Dude dude dude,
Come on now. You my friend need to go to the dealer and run them both. With a $1000 investment I'd make sure it feels good no matter who made it. Going from a 395 to a 660 what really is the difference? I mean are you going to lose a full second on a 24" log through each cut? Come on now, on 100 cuts a day that's not even 2 minutes. Think about how big your wood is that your cutting generally with the big saw. In 16-24"+ in wood the 7900 will hang with either of them. The biggest difference is going to be when you put a bigger bar and are cutting some 36" logs. Were I you, I'd say the he11 with which one is going to cut .5 seconds faster, go with what feels the nicest and is the easiest for all around cutting. Just my 2cents bro... :rock: :givebeer:

BTW: Both are very nice saws dude. I've got a kinda demo vid of the 7900 running against a 394XP, it's not meant for exact tests, but it's a general idea of some backyard fun...

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8624368755726284435&hl=en
 
To be honest,I really dont need my 395 ,Or for that matter,saws from 37 cc up to 94.I am pretty much a serious student of saws,a hardcore hobby cutter,who takes as much time studying specs as running my flock.I have taken a fix to cutting and running saws,and try not to let a weekend go by with out running a pair of the girls,either for my 86 year old neighbor who still heats with wood,to some of my friends or other neighbors.The main reason for the 395 purchase is one,cause I can afford to buy it.Two,I wanted a big saw for the occaisional fat stump or big buck job.and three,Ive now rounded off ethe flock,with Cc range to cover all the bases.It is fun to be the guy that gets to help people out with their wood problems.As for time cuts,I just watch my chips and that is the yardstick that I go by.I think that my 7900 wold keep up with the 395up to around 18''or so hardwood,then displacement would prevail and 395 would take over.Ive so stats to back it,just gut.I dont have a 372,although we have one at work,and it is very sweet.I am at the point now when I hear a saw run someplace I try to figure out what size,how sharp the chain,and what brand by listening,then go Introduce my self as a saw addict,andsee if Im right,I guess im hooked.Wish it happened when I was younger,but It all happens for a reason.:hmm3grin2orange:
 
Cisco,

Great video, and yes, you are totally out of control! I was impressed with how well the 288 and the 046 did. They appeared to cut as fast as the bigger saws, although I didn't time them. The 7900 seemed a little cold natured at the start but go into a groove about halfway into the log.

I may continue to use the 372 with skip on a 32" bar for the few times I need something that big. I made a video of my own on a string "Decided to test chain types and angles today", on a really big red oak. My cuts take a little longer than yours as the wood is 30" in diameter. The 066 and 394 would likely shine a little brighter in their comparisons versus the 17" log you were cutting.
 

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